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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. Biggest tyres I've seen on a D2 yet, not sure what size they are but I can ask the owner what he's done to it if it's of use:
  2. It's hard to come up with a polite response to that
  3. I like how the gold-top Lotus just accidentally made it into the parts picture
  4. AutoSiliconeHoses (ASH) on eBay sell complete kits I think, as well as universal lengths / bends etc. Certainly there's silicone hose kits for TD4 around.
  5. Couple of different angles of the same thing:
  6. Can't help on the lift but you'll need uprated axles if you want to avoid breaking stuff all day long. Try Nige: https://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/diff_upgrade.php
  7. 27mm socket (wheel nut size) on the crank nut from memory.
  8. The rate you're going you'll be able to put some AT's and an engine in that toolbox and drive it round
  9. Been skimming this with interest, the actuation method on these seems to be a weak point, is there any way to convert them to just be on/off using a mechanical linkage, lever, cable, or clutch-slave style actuator?
  10. Have you met twizzle? He doesn't need an excuse!
  11. 235/85 are basically factory standard size,and 1.4 is factory standard gearing for a 200 so it should tow fine. People with 90's who don't tow can get away with 1.2 ratio but it can be a bit lacking up hills and would likely be hard work with a caravan on.
  12. Shameless link to: Join the club and then Buy event entry See y'all there!
  13. Long time no see/hear, glad you're still above ground at least!
  14. I suspect that they're deemed sturdy enough to last the required lifespan with only the light dusting of satin black they took to giving them, just looks bl**dy awful to see a 3 year old truck with a brown rear crossmember! Odd that the D1 chassis were fine and the body rotted whereas the D2 onwards the bodies were fine and the chassis crumbled, guess they changed their process!
  15. Impossible to know really - it's all gotten better in the 40-50 years since the original RRC platform was designed, just seemed like they cheaped out massively on chassis in later years. I've got a few 1970's / 80's car mags I found where they are talking about 3-year-old cars having "only a few rust holes" as a positive thing so you've got to remember how the "good old days" really were. By comparison, you see more than enough 10+ year old cars running around these days without a spot of rust on them. As for the Defender, I find it hard to believe they'd knowingly design a mud/rust trap into it, despite all the mickey taking here LR do still plan for all their stuff to be used off-road and design accordingly, even if they make more concessions to the modern market who are actually buying the things than the longbeards here would like.
  16. Last time I had to faff with dizzy timing on my V8 we couldn't make it NOT run no matter where we put the damn thing... Follow the timing mark & crank pointer, get the rotor arm pointed at the right lead and twiddle from there I think.
  17. Rear diff is EP90 I think, IRD I can't remember but main gearbox is MTF94. The RAVE manuals are (or were) pinned in the top of the technical archive, or you can download them for free online - @henk is busy indexing them onto my webserver, at the moment it looks like there's some in the FL1 section: http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/rtfm/Freelander/F1/
  18. To be fair those were a 1970's British Leyland design and no-one back then designed to avoid rust-traps etc., just look at any other car from that period (if you can find one that hasn't rusted into the ground) and then someone came along later in the 1980's and stapled a plastic trim to it to try and make it look modern, with no design changes to account for it (because they had no money back then). The modern stuff they are more cunning about it, using plastic trim to take damage (stone chips etc.) that would usually start a steel panel rusting in no time. To this day it's hard to find rust on a Freelander, and aside from the awful chassis quality which seems common across the board, the P38, D2, FL2, etc. seem pretty resilient to rust.
  19. Exactly - they say it just needs +12v and ground, but their site sort of maaaybe shows a keyfob or something... how the thing is actually activated / set up etc. would make a big difference to how useful people might find it and what other risks there are - like people breaking into your house to steal your keys, or locating the device with a £10 eBlag cellphone detector and disabling it on your driveway
  20. I had a chap waxing very lyrical about those inflatable spring helpers the other day, had them on his 130 which sometimes tows a 5th wheel trailer and other times runs around empty, he reckoned they were the dogs danglies... but he was also a 4x4 specialist who happened to supply & fit them, so you know... it doesn't sound like the worst idea ever though for your scenario.
  21. Stock torque for stock wheels & tyres & hubs sure.
  22. I wouldn't bother thinking about anything other than new or recon VCU, and trying to turn them by hand or whatnot is a non-starter, even a good one you wouldn't be able to tell. When I was doing big miles I just budgeted for a recon unit from Bell every ~70k or so and that did me fine.
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