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FridgeFreezer

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. It says it's industry standard testing for cold, heat, altitude, etc., although as one of George's videos shows, LR add harder tests / stronger standards compared to others.
  2. I'll also put it in my calendar and start saving up petrol money now
  3. What this video tells me is that it should take approximately 90 minutes to restore my classic, not including tea-brakes As Snagger says, put together like that you can see the skills developing and improving as you go along. I reckon you should post a bonus time-lapse video of how long it takes you to edit a video
  4. Mmmmm crusty. Looks like a fair bit of work!
  5. Nice - I know it's probably unnecessary but are you going to plate over the join? Also, too late now but perhaps a side awning would give you a dry area to work?
  6. Oh so much this! The original Series was designed as a cheap cross between a car and a tractor but I don't see anyone bemoaning the lack of power take-off equipment in the last 30 years As Tanuki says, farmers are using cheap simple quads to bimble around farms or they're using pickups or just tipper vans for a lot of stuff - because the world has changed and they're the best tools for the job now. Grumble all you like but I don't think anyone's going to plough a field with a Defender these days even if they supplied them with a 3-point linkage from the factory Builders are driving 30-40k VW Transporters with leather & aircon & tinted windows but if LR dare to make a vehicle with a decent interior it's far too fancy - when Ford Transits are available with leccy windows I think we can probably agree it's not outrageous extravagance for a Defender to have them too. Every other "competitor" vehicle cited here has as much or more equipment fitted - be it foreign 4x4's or pickups, vans, even tractors & unimogs have air con & comfy seats & enough electronics to get you to the moon. Look at American pickups, supposedly rutfy-tufty all-action and yet they've got powered tailgates for your feeble arms, electric side-steps, heated cup-holders, acres of fake chrome and plastic panels, and half the time they've got indy front ends and leaf sprung arses
  7. Could you have said this about the D1 or RRC when those came out though? Or the FL or D2, D3, etc... as they get cheaper people are using them for "utilitarian" purposes with no qualms and I don't see much more or less problem with scratching a brand new shiny "old" Defender than one of these? Sure it would feel bad to throw a muddy dog in the back of a brand new car, but that would be true for almost anything brand new.
  8. And yet motoring journos can find quite a few... https://jalopnik.com/heres-the-2020-land-rover-defender-before-youre-suppose-1837597472 I can see plenty - the line along the side is very Defender if you look at the roll of the bodywork and the door tops in that photo it's like looking at the side of a CSW. Alpine windows and a TDCi bonnet too... the one on white steelies in the autocar article has a certain familiar feel.
  9. For info, I scraped all the mud & cack off, then wiped the panels down with brake cleaner before sticking it and it's stayed put so far with no additional support.
  10. Not sure if this exact thing is engine-bay-proof but I lined the trans tunnel with it and it was very good for heat & noise: CAR Insulation - Sound Proofing Heat Insulation Material
  11. I still don't understand the bitching about it being based on a Disco platform, given the "original" was effectively a Series body on a RR/Disco chassis... I mean how very dare they do exactly the same thing again, it's against tradition! Um... Anyway, I kinda like it.
  12. No I meant the big relay that goes "clunk" when you hit the start button, mine also had an overload device fitted which is what I think had failed... but if your motor will run when you spin it by hand I'd suspect the start cap. Should have some values printed on it somewhere that you can match but as LoFi says it's not super critical and there's guidelines based on motor size/power.
  13. I just had the contactor in mine die, I'd be looking at the start cap & contactor & checking the wiring before spending out on a motor. Machine mart sell universal-fit motors, Brook Compton or Parvalux make the pukka stuff but it'll be pricey.
  14. Pull the other one - you can make Defenders a lot better than standard (and god knows enough people spend enough time & money trying) but even the best Defender out there is miles behind modern stuff in so many ways that are very hard to do anything about without a major re-engineering.
  15. There's West4x4 at Waltham Chase, Keith Gott at Alton, or if you've got a barn and something that can lift an engine it's fairly DIYable. Might be worth an ask on the ShireLRC Facebook group or just pop up Portsdown hill this evening to Mick's Monster Burger as we're gathering up there for a burger and chin wag Edit: I might be able to lend you an engine crane, especially if you could collect it this evening.
  16. Suspect #1 is the charcoal canister for the fuel tank vapours, #2 is crank vent. #3 is for fuel pressure regulator, #4 would be brake servo on cars that had it, although they had a valve there to prevent a backfire from popping the servo diaphragm so its worth checking.
  17. Meanwhile, I think Bollinger should hire @miketomcat :
  18. RPR's transmission shouldn't be working that hard - it's a light truck with low gearing. His only problem might be heat depending on the local climate but if RR's and Disco's with the same engine & box & transfer aren't struggling I'd hope a little 88 wouldn't have a problem. I've worked the 109 fairly hard on occasion and none of my oil temp tell-tales have ever shown an issue either with high speeds or heavy loads over long distances. And we proved the LT230 is good for ~400hp with zero mods.
  19. From what little contact I've had with American stuff it's not exactly the pinnacle of engineering - often very "heavy dooty" but you still have the feeling that many corners were cut on all the other components... and cosmetically they just always appear to be designed by a 10-year-old boy who's watched too many Transformers movies and had too much sugar.
  20. Just noticed how long it's been since a video (or post!) from @Shackleton, anyone heard anything?
  21. I'd be amazed if there isn't - rumour is they're partnering with BMW for hybrid/electric.
  22. Depending on the box & clutch combo I'm pretty sure there is a different release bearing for V8 and TDi in some setups - only because I know we had one of each on the shelf in the lab and somehow the wrong one got fitted and it jammed the clutch permanently "released". I can't remember if it's V8/TDi or LT77/R380 but I know there's two different lengths of bearing (that you'd struggle to pick apart if you didn't put one next to the other).
  23. Stick on dash is a bit different but I've driven cars & vans that have it and it's not bad - certainly compared to reaching over to stir a bucket of cogs with a 2' bar it could be much more civilised!
  24. Good point! I guess if you need higher gearing you either just fit bigger tyres or see if anyone has any of the 5:1 gears for the Volvos.
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