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FridgeFreezer

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. I did, and there weren't My reasoning was basically that doing it all in SS flexi is easier/quicker to route (time was a factor by that point...) and has fewer joints - I used generic TFE hose & fittings from ThinkAuto or possibly Merlin Motorsport.
  2. To be fair a £5 multimeter from eBay can check the sensors on these things, there's not much to the system.
  3. Cap was brand new genuine parts (after the previous one popped off ) and the flange isn't loose. Ordered the bling HD flanges now, will do a fuller rebuild of the axle at a later date.
  4. I'm pretty sure the CV can't move as the correct shim is behind the end circlip and it's as tight as I could make it and still get the clip on. It was previously missing the shim, so I wonder if the damage has been done to the internal seal(s) by it moving, and as the inner half-shaft moves in & out on cornering it's now managing to pump oil past the seal. For £15 a hub I might put those fancy flanges on for the time being and see how it goes, although longer term I think the whole front end is due a good coat of looking at - bushes, bearings, seals, etc... mind you, the back end probably is too!
  5. For a cheap no-brand battery off eBay I wouldn't expect much more than this, there's a reason the likes of Bosch / Varta / Yuasa cost more. Good luck on a refund but I doubt you'll get far as it's impossible to prove it hasn't been abused or over-charged. I'd dispose of it safely and be glad it didn't explode and/or burn your truck/garage down.
  6. This is insane overkill and I love it. Now get back to working on the bl**dy truck!
  7. If you can quantify the signal(s) required I'm sure something could be worked out - if it's logic level (3.3v or 5v) it could be very easy.
  8. Just back from a little* jaunt around Europe in the ambulance and having (I thought) sorted the problem before leaving, it happened again on the trip and we ended up losing the rubber end cap on the front axle somewhere up an Alp The symptom is pretty much as described here: But; End-cap was a new genuine rubber item, supposedly the most immune to falling off Hub flange seal is OK Rear hub seal is OK Axle breather is NOT blocked (I can blow down it no probs) Problem seemed only to happen after "serious" driving - snaking up & down alpine passes in the sunshine with very hot brakes (hence heat into hub) It's only this hub, the opposite one is fine and has been doing the same amount of work Now, it's possible there's a little play or wear in the wheel bearing, I haven't had time to jack it up & investigate but I gave it a cursory wobble and it's not hanging off. My current plan is to do the wheel bearings & seals as a precaution and see what happens, unless someone has a better idea? *= 2200 miles ish, as you do.
  9. Millions of brushes on eBay, I'd assume they're going to be common to a load of other stuff of the era too... a quick search turned up these: Land-Rover-Series-2A-3-Starter-Motor-Carbon-Brush-Kit-AAU1405 Which have a wedgey shape to them and are LR parts.
  10. I think Axminster sell the little pyramids.
  11. Oddly, ours is in the archive but the scan of the record card doesn't quite tally and the colour (NATO Green IRR) is in the spreadsheet but not listed / secret in the website.
  12. Cebora is a good make, as long as it's single-phase and working that should be a good unit, spares should be available etc.
  13. Yeah I was surprised how much wheel spin is allowed before it gets a grip, although I wonder if it would be different if it wasn't the "all-or-nothing" tarmac/roller setup? Given the TR system knows absolutely loads about what's going on, it knows it's basically flat & level on tarmac so is probably outside its normal behaviour - they surely anticipated the "driver left TR in sand mode and then drove home on tarmac" scenario...
  14. If you find one that's a way away it might be worth asking if anyone can forum-relay the unit up to you?
  15. You used to be able to get wedges that correct the angle without too much lifting of the axle. Sure someone with a mill could knock something up.
  16. Thought a few might find this useful: https://ntrs.nasa.gov/search.jsp?R=19900009424 Click "view document" for a PDF download.
  17. Thanks @hurbie, didn't know about that list and found our ambulance on it!
  18. I suspect doing this in a flat tarmac car-park with rollers doesn't fully/properly demonstrate its behaviour.
  19. Our 127 has the genuine spring-loaded bonnet hooks, much nicer than pins IMHO. Part numbers 300693 & 300691, hopefully you can find them cheaper than this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281925384898
  20. This just in, actual footage of Red90 in action: Only time I've lowered pressures was when I had a nail in my tyre, but then I've never driven anywhere hard
  21. I'd have suggested anywhere that repairs truck starters & alternators, used to be a place near me that did it, just an old chap in a shed but did a great job for very little money.
  22. Which will likely have paid for itself after the 1st job or two... and if not you can sell it again without losing much unless you've blown it up somehow
  23. Dinitrol is good stuff, easy enough to apply (just spray it) but it WILL go everywhere, all over you and anything in range of the breeze so be careful where you do it & what you do it near. A stout wire brush to remove any loose rust is a good idea, the SPID type ones on eBay are cheap and effective. That and a damn good pressure-washing underneath to remove any dirt etc., might be worth paying a local outfit to do it - places that prepare HGV's for MOT are often set up to steam-clean the hell out of things in preparation as taking a dumper truck for MOT with a year's mud crusted underneath is a surefire failure. Eye protection is essential (rust or paint in the eye isn't fun, ask me how I know) and some sort of coverall is a really good idea, the stuff can drift into your hair etc. and really doesn't come off easily. For touching up chassis black, Corroless chassis paint with glass reinforcement is damn good, Arc-Rite on eBay sell it. Edit: Dinitrol UK have an eBay shop too, worth a look.
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