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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. 2nd and 3rd vote for Portasol here, excellent bits of kit although you do have to watch where the exhaust port is pointed If you want an electric one, for wiring Land Rovers in a draughty garage you want a big dumb 50W+ one that can get plenty of heat into a wire quickly. Hacakaday.com have been all over the little USB rechargeable ones from China but I'm not sure they're going to have the oomph on bigger wires in a cold shed.
  2. Our cheap-ish 100W panels came from Alpha Batteries on eBay and are Bosch branded (on the silicon, not just a sticker). From trying to chip the glass off of one that got broken in transit (to see if I could replace the glass) I can tell you they are bonded together incredibly well, the whole surface area is bonded to the glass incredibly strongly and there was no way to get it off even when the glass had been shattered (courier dropped it on its corner!) - this is the panel miketomcat now has and even with shattered glass it's working fine.
  3. The Fairey overdrives were never very strong (and always whine), although a Series 4-pot has a fair bit less grunt than a V8 Range Rover so you'll probably get away with it. The modern Roamerdrives are much stronger and can be used in any gear with any engine.
  4. As others said, it's people not engines that break gearboxes - my 109 had a 3.9 V8 in front of a Series box + overdrive for years before I rebuilt the whole truck, and when I took it out it went behind another V8 in another Series that got thrashed around for a while longer before the box got noisy... and lord knows what condition the box was in when I bought the truck originally! In your situation I'd start with the cheap and easy options - find out what's wrong and if you can fix (or straight up replace) your current engine that's likely way cheaper & less effort even if it costs you more pennies than a crusty old TDi lump might, the conversion work is not trivial and you're losing originality. A 2.5NA isn't going to set the world on fire but in good fettle they work absolutely fine and are pretty bulletproof and simple.
  5. Almost all of them say months of curing before applying - mine came from Ask Coatings and the chap there was very helpful, he said they recommend a certain time but that I'd be OK with the shorter period, gave me the full run down on how best to apply it and which thing to use.
  6. If anyone's an expert on soggy BECM's it's @elbekko
  7. I'd be tempted to mount the fuel pump below the tank to avoid trapped air bubbles.
  8. Sorry, wrong. MPPT means "Mean Power Point Tracking" which just means the controller adjusts the load on the panel to achieve best power output (volts x amps). The more simple controllers, often (inaccurately) called PWM just regulate the voltage to the battery to avoid over-charging it. Most controllers (MPPT or not) are step-down, in that if the panel voltage falls below 12v (or your battery voltage plus a bit) they aren't charging anymore. Adding the circuitry to boost the voltage adds cost and is why you'll almost never see it in solar stuff as it's far easier to start with panels which have an "open circuit" voltage of 18v or more.
  9. Rule 1 is all the figures are lies. Rule 2 is if you're moving around every day or every other day you may as well not have panels as your alternator will replenish more charge in 15 minutes driving than a solar panel will in an entire day. If you can fit a bigger alternator, do that. Rule 3 is fit as much battery (Ah capacity) in as you can, in concert with Rule 2 this will give you the simplest and cheapest setup. After that... work out how much power you need, multiply it by 10 and pick a panel/controller that does claims that. Fancy panels and/or controllers are only going to give you marginal gains (maybe 10% in the real-world) over just buying the average-grade cheap stuff from China, and if your setup is that marginal you've got bigger issues. Also, a lot of the fancy stuff is just the Chinese stuff with a different sticker on it anyway. We run 2x 100W panels plus 2x cheapo MPPT controllers on the ambulance. Connected through the roof using an AMP sealed connector. We're limited on the battery size so added panels to compensate but it's not a great example of how to do it.
  10. Yep, one good way to kill any diff is spinning one end really fast as the planet gears are only there to allow a small difference whilst turning, not cope with huge speeds / loads.
  11. If anything the P38 ones will want to route the pipe straight through your slave cylinder, ask me how I know also they're ALL cracked. Standard cast RRC or Disco 2 manifolds are more central and you can likely use the common downpipe & Y piece.
  12. Lots of things could, but looking at a datalog costs nothing, which is less than all the other things it might be.
  13. Is it resetting at all? That can cause a misfire. You can watch the SECL number tick up from 0 to 255 and back round to 0 in the data, if it resets from any other number that's a sign there's a problem, usually wiring related.
  14. 2500 whats? And are you talking about just hanging more bed off the back or extending the chassis/wheelbase to suit?
  15. What engine is your existing LT77 designed for?
  16. I'd second what Blanco says and also suggest asking on the Disco3.co.uk forums if you haven't already.
  17. Just been through some old photos of the rebuild, mine's got HRC2773 on it, didn't even have to visit the shed
  18. The ECU may not switch the pump on until it decides it needs to - usually that's once it sees some pulses from the coil -ve although I don't know if the hotwire system primes the pump? If you're certain it WAS doing it before and isn't now, by all means suspect the ECU... but if you're not sure, I'd wager it's just not choosing to run it until it needs it. As Bowie says, could be a weak pump or could be the fuel pressure regulator has given up the ghost.
  19. I was thinking "emergency exit" sort of situation but you're right that if you're not going out one of the doors you're probably not going out... just pondering options really before sticking the windows in, if it could be done cheap & simple I'd do it just because, but I'm not really seeing a brilliant option. Oh and it's 3mm Makrolon so tough, but probably kickable-outable given how flexi it is.
  20. Simplest example is the same way a Series windscreen is fitted - pane of glass goes in the hole, aluminium L strips get screwed in behind it to hold it in. I'm trying to think of a way that those strips could be popped out relatively easily from the inside.
  21. One of the little improvements that I've been getting round to on the 109 is replacing the seized-up and draughty back sliding (not sliding anymore) side windows with single piece perspex. That's all fine and dandy but, being paranoid and over cautious, it would be nice if there was some way of fitting the piece of perspex in the hole such that it could be easily & quickly released from inside with minimal fuss. On the ambulance there's a seal-and-bead (defender screen) type rubber seal with a ring-pull that yanks the bead out, allowing the window to be popped out more easily. However, adding a big rubber seal would look pants so I'm looking for other ideas. The panel will be sat in the recess of the window-hole against the outer body skin, I'm envisaging simple L-section ali strips holding it in from behind. Any suggestions on how to make it poppable-outable?
  22. There's quite a few earths come out of the plug, bear in mind all the current for the fuel injectors etc. is grounded though the ECU even though the 12v side is supplied through the external relay. I doubt the ECU is faulty, they're not really prone to failure - most faults are wiring or a sensor or such like. Also, it would be remiss of me to get this far down an EFi trouble thread without suggesting you fit Megasquirt in its place
  23. From a mate of mine's experience the rot got far enough forward that it was a massive PITA to do, in the end he'd have been just as well replacing the whole chassis given how much labour it took to do the back half.
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