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FridgeFreezer

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Posts posted by FridgeFreezer


  1. The ECU may not switch the pump on until it decides it needs to - usually that's once it sees some pulses from the coil -ve although I don't know if the hotwire system primes the pump? If you're certain it WAS doing it before and isn't now, by all means suspect the ECU... but if you're not sure, I'd wager it's just not choosing to run it until it needs it.

    As Bowie says, could be a weak pump or could be the fuel pressure regulator has given up the ghost.


  2. I was thinking "emergency exit" sort of situation but you're right that if you're not going out one of the doors you're probably not going out... just pondering options really before sticking the windows in, if it could be done cheap & simple I'd do it just because, but I'm not really seeing a brilliant option.

    Oh and it's 3mm Makrolon so tough, but probably kickable-outable given how flexi it is.


  3. One of the little improvements that I've been getting round to on the 109 is replacing the seized-up and draughty back sliding (not sliding anymore) side windows with single piece perspex.

    That's all fine and dandy but, being paranoid and over cautious, it would be nice if there was some way of fitting the piece of perspex in the hole such that it could be easily & quickly released from inside with minimal fuss.

    On the ambulance there's a seal-and-bead (defender screen) type rubber seal with a ring-pull that yanks the bead out, allowing the window to be popped out more easily. However, adding a big rubber seal would look pants so I'm looking for other ideas.

    The panel will be sat in the recess of the window-hole against the outer body skin, I'm envisaging simple L-section ali strips holding it in from behind.

    Any suggestions on how to make it poppable-outable?


  4. There's quite a few earths come out of the plug, bear in mind all the current for the fuel injectors etc. is grounded though the ECU even though the 12v side is supplied through the external relay.

    I doubt the ECU is faulty, they're not really prone to failure - most faults are wiring or a sensor or such like.

     

    Also, it would be remiss of me to get this far down an EFi trouble thread without suggesting you fit Megasquirt in its place :D


  5. 1 hour ago, Roosterrs said:

    Chassis I know is 16 years old so not expecting perfect. Can you get a rear repair section?

    From a mate of mine's experience the rot got far enough forward that it was a massive PITA to do, in the end he'd have been just as well replacing the whole chassis given how much labour it took to do the back half.


  6. By the looks of it & your description on the other thread it's not a split-charge, it's a time-delay relay that turns off after a delay, so unless you can re-program it somehow it's not very useful.

    I assume you've googled it and looked on their website for a manual etc.?


  7. 13 hours ago, lo-fi said:

    Then, when you get hold of a machine you can confidently go about getting into some projects with enough knowledge that you're not on the intensely frustrating "fumbling about in the dark" part of the learning curve.

    Thanks to YouTube I'm at the "fumbling about in the light" stage :rofl:

    • Like 1

  8. First question is did you buy the 101 down south from a chap called Martin?

    To the problem at hand - if the pump runs with 12v on it then hopefully it's OK (although rarely they can go weak yet still run), so I'd check if power is getting through to it and if not, where it stops.

    1st stop is to check you're getting power on the brown wire into the fuel pump relay.

    After that, you can jumper out the fuel pump relay to prove it - jumper the brown wire to the white/purple to run the pump permanently (while chasing the fault), and you can check for 12v / gnd out of the ECU across the white/slate and blue/purple pair, there should be 12v across this when the ECU wants to run the pump (I can't remember if it switches the 12v side or the ground side, so be careful how you measure to avoid fooling yourself!).

    I've had the relays fail and you need to be aware that they're an odd type - 5-terminal with two ganged terminals, confusingly marked 87 and 87a even though that disagrees with how VWP list them;

    R30BT- 5 blade twin make & break. Similar to R20BC, but with two blades at 87 feed.

     

     

    Here's the 3.9 V8 system diagram for you, hopefully it's just been transplanted over to your 101:

    lucas_efi_1988_1989.jpg

     


  9. For the timer question, IIRC they only need a basic contact-closure (switch/relay) to turn them on (although swanky diagnostic controllers can talk over the K-bus), so almost any timer will do - there's 12v versions of those 7-day timer plugs on eBlag for not much. First one I found, just for reference: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333148872583

    On the fuel side, small plastic or alloy tanks made in the far east are cheap on eBlag, you could keep a couple of litres of diesel in one of those completely separate. It's what I did on the 109 because it's a petrol V8 and the heater was a D1LC. Alternatively I've seen people adapt small jerry cans (the 5-10L ones) for the same purpose with a pickup in the cap. You might even be able to buy them like it, I've not looked.


  10. 2 hours ago, Blanco said:

    does that mean that DIY rebuilds are now feasible?, or still not really on?

    I've no idea TBH, I just know that someone commented there were engine parts which weren't available as genuine parts which are now being manufactured, possibly by the likes of Turners although I have a feeling Britpart have jumped on the bandwagon too.


  11. 16 hours ago, steve b said:

    That part in the ebay ad is bolted to a small tube that runs through the centre of the column shaft and exits at the base of the box through the end plate with a pinch clamp holding it in place . The dip switch and horn wires run through the tube and the centre of the wheel in the cab is fixed .

    OK so it's "just" wires running up a toob with enough length to handle a couple of turns either way?

    Feels like there should be a few ways round that. Wonder if the later box/column could be modded to accept the tube up the middle? I'm guessing there's not much opportunity to fit a slip-ring/flexi casette like modern cars as it'd be very obvious.


  12. 13 minutes ago, Richard Mills said:

    Check the alternator connections, the speedo is fed from there, it will be corrosion on the tag of one of the smaller spade terminals, or just plain loose.

    Sorry, that's rev counter, the speedo is mechanically driven off the transfer box along a flexible drive cable. Cables can fret, or work loose.


  13. A cheapo 2-channel remote control fob glued into the wheel and its receiver / relays discretely connected to the other end?

    Might have to pop the centre to replace the batteries in the remote every few years but otherwise should work & be reversible.

     

    Failing that, how about some pics/diagrams for those of us who aren't familiar with the setup you're describing?


  14. Budget & intended use would be quite useful...

    D2 have rotten chassis, almost without exception. Also TD5's are surprisingly thirsty - for low miles you may as well have the V8 and enjoy it.

    D3 are very complex and do require money spending to keep them going but people have most of the major jobs worked out and parts aren't too bad, the aftermarket is catering for them and even "un-gettable" engine parts are being manufactured.

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