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FridgeFreezer

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. Cleaning the turbo solenoid? I re-plumbed mine with push-fit pipe after the same failure (pipe rubbed through) and it went for years with no problems, the turbo solenoid isn't that close to the hot stuff.
  2. Standard truck HDPE arches, dirt cheap, hard to destroy. Personally though, I'd rather leave it open so I can hose it out than close it up & discover later it's filled up with cack & gone rusty.
  3. FB is like visiting a lunatic asylum - even people you thought were rational and sensible human beings post utter cack on FB. I have to dip in once a month to update club stuff and that's once too often, if it wasn't for that I'd have deleted my account years ago.
  4. Depends if price of another rad is less than the price of all these other mods to make it work?
  5. That'll do it, all the vacuum will leak out and the turbo won't be actuating properly or maybe at all. 6mm push-fit nylon pneumatic hose is a good fit for those pipes.
  6. You can prove anything with statistics
  7. AS well as the original crank-drive it's not hard to add other methods such as a hydraulic motor driving into the back of that unit - LoFi built an entire capstan winch from scratch in a similar style: There's been a few capstan winch threads if you search back, should find most of the info.
  8. Why not this one? You can get a rad made any shape/size with this core in it, mine didn't cost much more than a genuine parts brass one.
  9. TBH I'd go with whatever the paintman chap recommends to go with the paint. Tell him what you've got and what you're applying it over and he'll know what you need to do. Prep is everything - multiple wipe-downs with clean rags & suitable solvent/cleaner after you've stripped/sanded.
  10. I'd take it all the way to the fence on that left side, it's only going to be a dark unloved corner anyway, and gives some room for workbench and/or storage. Looks good though, wish I had a bit more space for a lift.
  11. I wanted to fit a rear rad in the 109 when I rebuilt it to stop mud clogging it up, in the end I couldn't see a nice way of doing it without too much other compromise, ended up just fitting a wide-cored (earthmover or "caterpillar" core) rad in the front and it's never clogged.
  12. I might've missed this but are we sure that mystery fitting isn't 1/8" BSP or NPT?
  13. Could you make the ducts out of perspex therefore not diminishing the rear-view? Or fit a reversing camera as rear-view mirror? I think you're over-worrying about hooking a tree on it, Jez never damaged the scoops and they were ploughing through trees all day.
  14. Same here, I've got a ~120W tube heater under the middle toolbox, so between the other toolbox & the lathe, hopefully keeping things dry. Also got the home server in the garage as a free bonus heat source
  15. Per the title, I'm looking to give stainless a go just for practice - I've got a few random bits of stainless kicking around but no idea what grade, so looking for recommendations for rods that will be "good enough" for commonly-encountered stainless grades. Doesn't have to be perfect, I'm not about to weld anything critical, just want some basic stainless practice.
  16. My concern with picking up from underneath is it's just channelling dirt, debris, road salt, etc. into your rad rather than the somewhat cleaner air going over the top. Petal: Petal Mk2: Mouse roof scoop: D-Lander, bit of an Elvis quiff:
  17. @miketomcat ran his rear-radiatored Tomcat on the road all the time with no problems, likewise Richard's Dlander, Jez's Petal and Mouse both had rear rads with no issues. All of them had roof scoops. Most of the comp safari boys have rear rads and they're not hanging around.
  18. STM32 is a family, they go from ultra-low-power / low cost to high power stuff running a full RTOS. F1xx and F4xx are mid-line with enough of everything for most projects and pretty cheap.
  19. I wonder about the mapping/performance upgrades, a lot of them just wind the fuel up or do awful bodges like fudging the air/coolant temperature sensor values to the ECU to make it throw more fuel in. If black smoke is coming out you're wasting fuel.
  20. It's been interesting being in the house with H who has spent about 75%+ of every day on conference calls and web-thingies, it's a wonder anyone in big companies ever gets anything done! Do wish a lot of companies would let the office folk work from home, it creates so much traffic and takes up so much space & air conditioning etc. for stuff that could be done on a laptop from anywhere... then again, it's been fairly well doable for 20-30 years for the cost of a laptop and a phone line and it's not caught on yet
  21. I'd look for anything that runs on 12-14v as you can hook it to your car battery for nearly infinite run-time. I have a few 12v power tools I got for nothing because the batteries were dead, add jump leads and any old car battery kicking around, even a dead one, will run them beautifully. As De Ranged alludes to, LED's, especially cheap ones, have poor colour rendering (CRI) because they create narrow bands of light to appear white, that's (partly) why the likes of Osram and Cree cost so much more than the oriental knock-offs - lifespan is an issue too, the cheap ones can lose output very rapidly over their lives as well as having poor thermal management which can lead to premature death. That and they all lie massively on their spec sheets about performance Big Clive on YouTube has done a lot of LED light teardowns if you're interested.
  22. You're not wrong - I can see a big split between those who worked from home and those who lost a job, business, or an entire industry overnight.
  23. 16(US) MPG, wow, if you fit a V8 you MPG will probably go up!
  24. I think the majority of that 12 months is that that's the minimum viable time to wait for any serious side-effects to show up in the human guinea-pigs (some of whom, incidentally, were given the prototype vaccine at least a week ago).
  25. I throw a lot of STM32F103 "Bluepill" boards in stuff as they are cheap, powerful, and they're not arduinos But, if you've learnt Ardunio and are happy with it, I'd say just stick with it - you can use anything to skin this cat and honestly these days it's all cheap & easy. If, once you've got it working, you want to port the code to something else, it's all doable. The micropython boards are a lovely thing for getting stuff working without too much tedious overhead and without being arduinos too
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