FridgeFreezer

I thought the steel 110 tank was the same part# as RR/Disco?

Without knowing anything about your vehicle I can't say - if you have the earlier style steel fuel tank mounted in the rear (same as Range Rover / Discovery) then yes that's the pump.

I suspect the graph shape is as much down to DIY measurement inaccuracies as anything - IAT sensors are not sealed so dipping it in water or getting it steamed up are going to conduct electricity and skew your readings. Coolant temp sensors are closed-end for this reason. Here's the basics on sensor values: https://www.ametherm.com/thermistor/ntc-thermistor-beta The graph should typically be a curve, which yours is if you squint hard enough... I might even suggest you've lucked out and found a sensor with the same curve, given that the default is a very popular type. You enter the values in TS here (after unlocking) although it looks like you may not need to.

It's a neat package but I can't help but expect it will twist any LR gearbox apart in no time, much like the TGV lumps or the other various larger diesel conversions seem to.

Well it's a better technique than picking it up with a forklift like the one in the background

My solid brass UNF ones haven't loosened in years of service, I must have done something wrong

PRC7020 is a low-pressure pump for carbs so you'd need a 2nd high-pressure pump somewhere after it.

As others said, brass nuts tend to be deeper than steel ones to avoid stripping threads, and they won't corrode or stick on. For ultimate loveliness buy unequal thread studs - standard thread into the head/part and then a fine thread with matching brass nut for the other side.

They're so lightweight and portable! At least the truck won't fall over weight in the right place isn't too bad, I'd rather have 200kg extra in the axles than a pointless suspension/body lift and a load of tat on the roof rack for appearance.

Fair enough - that didn't exist when I did mine so I've not read it!

Virtual machines let you create a PC inside a PC, which means you can keep specific software like CAD packages going inside a VM on an "obsolete" operating system but move it from computer to computer as you upgrade. For example, we have some old but useful CAD software that is happiest inside Windows XP, if we tried to move it to a Windows 10 machine there'd be a small explosion, but we don't want to keep a dusty old Windows XP box kicking around - so give it a virtual machine to live in and you can run it from any PC with no compatibility problems, no virus worries, no updates which might break it, etc. and you can make the VM with no network connection so it can never "phone home" and decide it's obsolete. The software is mostly free - either Oracle Virtualbox or VMWare. You can create a VM from scratch if you have an operating system CD or similar to install, or you can (with a few wrinkles) clone an existing machine like your laptop into a VM so you can have your laptop inside another machine - that's a bit more involved. You do need a reasonable amount of RAM as you're effectively running two computers in one, but VM's are surprisingly fast, I don't notice any lag working in them.

Don't the aviation industry use Zinc Chromate paste / paint on dissimilar metals? Have a feeling they electroplate and/or prime everything with the stuff, it's the manky yellow or green colour you always see naked airframes in.

Must be hard for them to talk about their absolutely deliberate Defender clone without saying it and getting sued back to the dark ages by JLR Edit: Worked out what it reminds me of... those Chinese clones of cars that are ever so slightly "off";

My work PC runs Linux Mint and half the time I've got Mint in one monitor, Windows WM in another and Ubuntu VM in the 3rd and yes I do need a 4th monitor... There's a few wrinkles to cloning XP / Vista / Win7 machines if anyone needs the info I've got it wrote down somewhere...

Which one - the megasquirt.info site, Nige's instructions, or a thread on here, or somewhere else?

I thought I'd seen somewhere the keyway points at cylinder #1 when the engine's at TDC but can't recall where.

Electrical or gaffer tape just goes really manky / gooey over time, they're only designed for temporary use. What about sandwiching some pond liner / rubble sack sort of material in there - thick-ish plastic sheet.

Most of it looks pretty good but that nose is f***ing awful, it's the sort of thing you see on sad knock-offs made in China or India. I get the strong impression that all that "footage" is computer-generated at this stage so maybe they'll change that and the daft bit by the ladder. You can see they've been trawling through classic 4x4 designs for ideas. All in all - interesting, I'll wait to see some real detail though, anyone can come up with a computer model and a load of promises.

I could never find info on it, if you've got something official that'd be very useful to know!

Clone the drive and make it into a virtual machine to future-proof it (and speed it up greatly) - we use virtual machines for various stuff like that, works lovely.

Is that double-skinned 6mm thick axle tubes? Got to love Ze Germans for engineering! Makes my Volvos look very lightweight

Worse than that, the 4.0 doesn't have a timing mark on the pulley I actually timed mine by putting a spare V-belt pulley on, setting up a timing pointer to match TDC and the replacing the proper pulley and marking it. Sure there must be a better/nicer way perhaps using the cam position sensor hole and wheel as an accurate marker to set it all up?

Unfortunately I think Wessex Rads have long gone - their old premises is a window shop now The rad they made for my 109 in ~2006 is still going strong though.

Congratulations! It will be rough as hell when you first start it as everything will be "near enough" but nowhere near right. You just need to go through the various bits and bobs in order of priority - 1st thing is to get the timing right (value in MS equals value shown by timing light), until that's bob on nothing else is worth fidddling with. Then get it idling about right, which gives you a basic idea that you've got the bottom corner of the fuel map about right, then worry about other stuff from there.

If the system's been empty it can take a while for the froth in the PAS reservoir to die down - I've never had to bleed PAS, just fire it up & cycle it back & forth a few times, but it does take some time to get all the bubbles out of the system. You can see the fluid frothing in the reservoir if you take the cap off.