FridgeFreezer

There is a limit though - the £12 head unit we fitted in the ambulance has a very audible background hiss / whine, granted you wouldn't hear it with the engine running in a TDi but it's very noticeable if you use it while parked up.

If you don't want a CD mechanism, £35 buys a surprising amount: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//153383950450 Not sure about sound quality, quite tempted to risk one as an experiment though!

Very hard to guess value without pictures. I'd say it's well worth getting it running and driving if at all possible, fills buyers with a lot more confidence that there's not too much wrong with it - if nothing else it makes getting it on a trailer easier! Even if you have to jump it to get it running it's then "only" a new battery problem not unknown engine trouble. My advice for eBay is take as many good clear pictures as you can, including the bad points so people can see you're being honest, and write as much description and history as you can - words are free and so are the 1st 12 pictures Mind you, last time I tried to sell a car via eBay I got f***ed about numerous times, got the ar5e and listed it on AutoTrader where it sold almost instantly with no hassle!

I was pondering a double-din one with no CD mechanism ("mechless") as those look like they'd fit nicely in a centre console and have no moving parts. Also quite cheap these days - there's units out there for sub-£50 Just annoying me that very few have built-in DAB, you have to spend quite a lot more or buy extra gubbins but I guess just using iPlayer on your phone and the AUX input would suffice a lot of the time.

I dunno, I'm sure I read a few things on Pirate4x4 many moons ago with a general disdain for them, even in their original application. I also remember the magazine article way back on the pair of challenge Ibexes running them who were basically counting events-per-gearbox on the fingers of one hand

If you describe it honestly I would sell it as a going concern, breaking it will be a faff as you say and also a real shame. As other have said, almost every Series out there is a bitsa of some sort.

Ah so you can snap gearboxes instead of crankshafts! Don't those lumps have a terrible reputation as boat anchors?

Or take it round to @Shackleton and bribe him with pound notes to cut it out for you and film it for his channel

Stainless fasteners are awful in other ways too - they are brittle and absolutely love to gall and lock solid if you get any crud in the threads, and of course they're hard so harder to drill out than a BZP one. I use BZP all the way - I usually buy party packs from Namrick, Cromwell, or Axminster.

Bacon slicer discs - 1mm stainless cutting / slitting: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142487240428 Just be careful as if you put side-load on it and break it it's a flying wheel of death - very much for straight-ahead cutting only.

Grinder with bacon-slicer disc, drill/hole-saw for the corner radius 1st then join the dots with the grinder. Or plasma cutter if you have one

^ What Bowie said, check your system for restrictions. It could be down to the skinny nylon air-line not flowing enough air, seen that before in the workshop - big industrial compressor, big windy gun, but not able to undo a nut because the air-line was a cheapo one - 5+ metres of restrictive line knocks the air delivery down significantly, like voltage drop in skinny wires you end up with 100PSI in the air tank and 50psi in the gun when you pull the trigger.

What are you proposing to make it out of?

That'd be the ideal - I don't know if the standard MJ unit has table switching or if you have to specify it as an extra at build-time, worth checking as that's a major advantage for LPG.

I reckon it's doable, you've got both vehicles kicking around so invest in a tape measure and see what you can see! There's certainly a lot of space to be gained in the front of a Series if you trim the slam panel / crossmember and keep the rad + fan combo slim. You can run a 4.0 on carbs easy enough but you're throwing a fair bit of advantage away - and with no distributor you'll need something to run the ignition side anyway... I don't know how "smart" the D2 box is, I thought someone ( @Bowie69 ?) had worked out the signalling and it's only 3 or 4 wires to actuate solenoids in the right order.

I'm not Nige - that's @Hybrid_From_Hell Yes the dizzy stays behind the drive the oil pump, you can cut its head off or just leave it, makes no odds really. Megajolt / megasquirt can run from a variety of pickups - from basic points to full trigger wheel, and control a single coil (literally acting like a smarter ignition amp) or coil packs to give you distributorless ignition. A Megasquirt ECU can be run as ignition-only giving you the path to add fuel injection later. Both can give you switchable maps for LPG.

Megajolt all the way, what setup are you looking at - it driving the coil & dizzy or actually going distributorless (which is more work but sooo much nicer IMHO, especially for LPG) Oh and "no" to RPI's ignition amp. You can fit generic Bosch ignition amp modules from any number of 1990's cars and run big coils if you want for about £20.

http://hmvf.co.uk might be able to help.

Can I very selfishly suggest: 22nd-23rd June / 28th-29th September http://www.shirelrc.com/seven-sisters/

I think you might want to do the front wheel bearings while you're in there, judging by the amount of crud that's apparently gotten past the seals on the FWH's, otherwise I predict you'll be having the whole lot apart again in the near future

I haven't read back through this but by blanking off the stepper do you mean actually blocking the air passage or just blanking the place where the stepper goes? Need to break this down methodically bit by bit to rule stuff out.

Just crimp a new insulated spade connector on the wire.

Welcome! Looks like it should scrub up nicely, much like George's 4-door in fact!

Check the plastic bushings & clips on the gear change mechanism, they can wear and fall out of the linkage and then it slops around. You can see it moving on the gearbox end with the bonnet open, or laying under the car for the gearstick end. You'll need a helper to waggle the stick

Funny, I'd heard they were reducing it even further to make it less painful to pay all the returns under their warranty scheme. If you can't get decent new bits then for something like that I'd go for good condition used parts.