FridgeFreezer

Both are ancient now but SD1 had a lighter flywheel and likely different accessory drive etc. If the SD1 is an EFI then it'll have the EFi inlet manifold. SD1 exhaust manifolds are different. The oil pumps got bigger at some point but they're still not great compared to the later ones. Generally with a bit of faffing about you can bolt any Rover V8 in place of another. SD1 may well have a different cam for more power at higher revs with less low torque, depends what version the RR unit is as some were low compression or restricted. Here's some light reading for you:

The great thing about greasing your prop regularly is you can give it a good wiggle in all directions while you're under there - that amount of play/damage doesn't happen overnight.

^ This, that has worn down over a looong period and finally milled its way out rather than snapping. Grease guns are your friend, as are quality UJ's.

If they floated past Basingstoke I'd have the whole collection off you... as it stands I probably can't justify fighting my way in & out of London to collect them

Not getting much CO off the engine while I'm sleeping in the back Also, I realise plenty of people are happy with their chinese heaters but my point is that I've paid the same or less money for a German unit than these new ones cost and that's my strong preference in that situation. Long-term reliability, servicability, parts availability etc. is very much yet to be proved with the knock-offs.

Interesting approach - buy cheap junk, use the the money saved to buy an alarm or two to tell me I'm about to suffocate or burn to death...

Good tyres are never cheap, cheap tyres are rarely good... you've got to factor the cost of BFG's over the fact they easily last 50k or more.

Series diff must be worth something, I might even know a guy who'd have it. Not so sure about an old 110 axle

Perhaps it just shows that the average punter can't be trusted to have things like difflock buttons as they'll just drive around on tarmac with difflock engaged and then file a warranty claim when something breaks... same reason modern cars limit engine power in certain gears to save the gearbox or go into limp mode when overheated... maybe annoying to some but I'll bet in the big scheme of things it saves an absolute ton of warranty claims. Be honest, the vast majority of people tooling about in 4x4's and SUV's don't even know how to engage 4WD or what the various things do / when to use them... giving them a nice easy option like "snow" or "sand" or "mud" makes it far more idiot proof.

My main concern is a few years down the line - cheap seals can shrink & perish for example. In my case, I've got a Webasto as a night heater in the ambulance and I really don't want to be killed by carbon monoxide poisoning in my sleep. As a "day" heater for use defrosting/driving around I'd be more relaxed about a chinese one, especially in a Defender where it's too draughty to keep carbon monoxide in for very long ...but that said, if it's the choice between a used German one or a new Chinese one for similar money I'm still voting German!

TDi's are well known for being over-cooled and never warming up on tickover. I recommend fitting a V8 for optimum heating

2nd hand Eberspachers & Webastos can be had for ~£150 ish, just need to make sure you get the fuel pump & any controllers / relay boxes with them. I'd still take a 2nd hand German heater over a brand new Chinese one although I do know a couple of people with them who say they work well enough.

Micheldever

Sweet, it looks even cooler dirty: https://www.brianmicklethwaitsnewblog.com/2019/05/25/dirty-land-rover-in-soho/ ...did you know you can google image search number plates now? I had a feeling I'd seen the truck somewhere before and happened across this.

800w/12v = 66.7 amps draw which is more than your alternator can provide. Engine-off it'll flatten your battery in less than 2 hours. By comparison, a SMALL Eberspacher (D1LC) draws 2.5A and creates 2200W of heat, the larger ones make 5000W for not much more draw and a bit more diesel. I have a 1kW electric heater in my 109 in the garage and indoors it can just about take the edge off on a chilly day.

I'm surprised you couldn't manage over 45mph, unless someone's fitted a 1-ton transfer box to your Series the gearing shouldn't be THAT low Anyway, sound like you're happy with the result.

Yep, got the stop/start as the 2nd (house) battery in the ambulance and it's doing OK so far - on a day when it'd been worked hard we saw it pull 60A out of the alternator for quite a long time while recharging

What Bowie said - a setup like that will collapse if you use it as a workbench, it's designed for things sat squarely on the shelves not moving around and the weight ratings are always (ahem) optimistic. Pallet racking I'd trust, but that's a bit chunky for a workbench.

An alternative style fabricated by Dan in finest unbendium; Outriggers beefed up too; Bits of rod welded under the ends to stop the Hi-Lift slipping out, should be mandatory on sliders & bumpers IMHO! A few quid's worth of steel and bit of chopping & welding, you could add a step to it to follow the line of the HiCap.

Similar probably but if it's anything like the off-road course at Merecedes you could drive it in a Smart car.

I think ERR722 (hotwire, green band) were used on everything except flapper EFI and the later Thor P38's.

I don't think you can blame the factory for this - LR have a full off-road testing course and they've shown more than enough "proper" off-road testing of this and all their other models over the years... I suspect that the journalists just want spectacular footage they think will appeal to the average idiot, and faster = more spectacularer innit? Also, I have never seen any of the competition outside of J**p doing anywhere near the testing and mud-plugging that LR do with their stuff, certainly not in terms of PR photos/videos. I mean, this may be small beer to the hairy-chested off-road warriors on here but I don't see any press shots of the BMW X3 or whatever fugly POS Mercedes make in the same slot doing this - and I reckon their management would soil themselves if they thought a customer might actually try it;

Sounds a lot like a bad earth if more than one thing is affected. Is your battery secure & connections solid? Also, little hint for you - posting with the title "Freelander td4" in the Freelander forum doesn't help people see what your problem is and means you're less likely to get answers - we can already guess it's a Freelander!

Is that just because fitting the wrong flow rate hoofs more fuel in for the same opening pulsewidth and it's a cheap mod bodge if you don't have a tuneable ECU? Like winding the fuel pressure up or tweaking the fuel screw on a TDi The stock Rover ones flow more than enough for the 4.6.