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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. I used a RR/Disco crossmember as they bolt in and are easier to come by.
  2. I didn't even think they were 2mm, 1.5mm was the number in my head. Some aftermarket HD ones are thicker 2/2.5 but as said above I'm not sure I've ever seen anyone actually damage a chassis that wasn't already badly rusty, other than the odd dent along the bottom from landing on a rock. 3.5mm is massive overkill, sure it might not add much and it's low-down ballast I suppose but geez...
  3. Lumenition module should work on anything, usually the just need +12v power & connected to the dizzy / coil.
  4. Done loads to the Ambulance, nothing to the 109! Mind you some very expensive heims have arrived from Canada for the 109 so once a couple of outings in the ambulance are out of the way I'll be 100% on the 109. Oh and: New bathroom, new bedroom, trips to Ikea... I've not been slacking too much, just doing the wrong jobs!
  5. I would expect that replacing the driveshafts & flanges would sort it, although which combination I'm not sure. Needs Nige to wade in really.
  6. You can/could get Isuzu conversion rings to bolt in front of a V8 gearbox so that would be an way of getting the V8 clutch, but you'd need the V8 box & bellhousing.
  7. You don't want bar grips. I drove the 109 to Russia and back on (sort of) bar grips - actually 9.00x16 Petlas: Dirtydiesel was ahead of me in the convoy in a 300TDi RRC with no interior/soundproofing, he said he spent hours on the road trying to find the odd noise his truck was making - dipping the clutch, turning things on & off, etc. etc... eventually we pulled into a petrol station, and as I rolled to a halt behind him he realised it was my tyres he could hear!
  8. Pretty sure ECU's shouldn't contain oil, sometimes it can wick along wires and into enclosures so perhaps that's what's happened.
  9. Some of these suggestions sound overcomplicated to me: clean it to death, prep the edges, whack the amps up & wire speed down and burn it in well.
  10. Just noticed this chassis swap / rebuild thread which looks like it may contain very useful info:
  11. That's awesome! Where did you find those little oil cans?
  12. LR axles aren't very thick, I'd think with good prep and a bit of practice beforehand to get the settings dialled in it'd be up to the job. Can always run a 2nd bead over the top with a bit of figure-8 weaving.
  13. Are you sure that steel is thick enough - is there not a battleship or something you could cut a bit off?
  14. At your service...
  15. Seriously, if you're doing it properly rather than just want to bodge it up & drive it until the next MOT failure, a galvanised chassis & bulkhead are far less faffing about than welding and will increase the value of the truck quite a lot as two of the major problems are solved forever. Welding requires something solid to weld to and I'm not convinced you're going to find that on the bulkhead you've got.
  16. Buy a complete new galvanised bulkhead, the labour alone for welding that one up will eclipse the spend. Ditto the chassis to be honest, far far nicer & worth more resale to have a galv chassis than something patched up & slathered in gunk.
  17. Welcome, congrats on the purchase! Newbie advice thread, also contains a link to previous newbie advice thread with links to other newbie advice threads...
  18. They were standard fitment on some 109's (1-ton / HCPU) but might need longer spring hangers / shackles.
  19. Welcome! Looks like you've got a project there, but it sounds like you're not planning on doing it yourself? That could get really spendy really quickly. Reminds me a lot of Miketomcat's "45" when he first got it, and that turned out nice:
  20. No no no, ignore that guy and just fit the right MAF. He's selling the wrong MAF then selling you a box of magic gubbins to try and "fix" it.
  21. I believe Microsquirt is marginal in the number of injectors it can drive, could be wrong though.
  22. I want to run spark and fuel Any/all will do that. what system should I be using ms1 ms2 ms3 I guess I don't need ms3 its a bit over kill MS1 will do everything you need and is the least complicated. MS2 board plugs in to MS1 CPU socket so you can upgrade later if you really must. I would like the option of being able to run a stepper motor if I ever chose to go back to gems MS1 can't natively do that but PWM valves work just as well. it would be nice but not necessary to be able to run two maps a sensible map for general road use an a daft map for daftness is this possible As quagmire says, in reality a decent map means you don't need to switch - when you're driving like a hooligan you're in a different bit of the map to when you're trundling around. is there any benefits of running semi sequential or sequential over a batched system None that you'd be likely to notice. It's very marginal, mostly emissions at idle. is it possible to run the map sensor externally rather than in the ecu Yep, plenty of people do it. I believe some OE external map sensors can be used too.
  23. Have you tried measuring it?
  24. Not true, that just means you've got the wrong temperature range of switch. In the Megasquirt I can set them to be 1deg apart if I want, and if the 2nd one comes on it is set to then stay on until BOTH go off again. It'd be easily done with a very simple circuit & a standard temperature sender if you don't have an ECU to do it.
  25. Freelander has that as standard. I've got the (very simple relay based) unit waiting to wire into my trucks, which both currently have twin fans controlled by the ECU. You can do "one fan, two fans" or you can do "both fans in series, both fans in parallel" which is the LR FL way & nice and quiet. Also, Saab definitely have similar as I've had at least two Saab fan setups on other trucks with a limiting resistor pack to drop the fan speed, much like heater blower resistor packs but much bigger. Not sure about others but can't believe LR and Saab are alone.