FridgeFreezer

@ballcock - all the manuals are available online as PDF's if you search, that way you can see what's supposed to be with it.

Was it working before? Has it ever worked?

Works fine on the 127 (6-bolt box) and the D2 box in the 109.

I have a feeling it's the wrong number of bolts/screws but early Range Rover / Disco / 110 / 130 (rear-mounted steel tank) types are your best bet, but they don't have senders built in.

Used to be Steve Parker conversions but no idea these days. In the UK at least, adapters come up 2nd hand but being in Canada I'd guess your options are more limited. The other bits are fairly easily made, or plenty of people use more of the donor drivetrain (gearbox + transfer case) to cut out the adapter and gain a stronger transmission with more speeds (or an auto). The only real issue is length in an 88.

No I haven't, but I'm willing to be they're not £14 delivered and yes I realise we're not the target / mass market - doesn't change what I'd like to see in my own heater controller if I ever get bored enough to make one! @paime - They're pretty simple to wire, there's just a lot of "extra" wires for optional extras. The basic wiring is + and - battery connections, a few wires to the controller (just join the colours), and 2 wires to the fuel pump. If you're buying used, make sure you get the heater, the fuel pump AND the controller (and for the older models, the control/relay box) as sooo many of them get removed from vehicles and the fuel pump is left behind.

In normal use there should only be one filament on at a time though, only time both would be on is if you pull the FLASH while the main beam is on.

CSMA is now called Boundless and their recovery is Britannia. I've been with them for years and they've never let me down, recovered all sorts with no grumbles.

Another vote for Nightbreakers - I'd be wary of LED's as the LED headlights are fugly and expensive and I would rather replace a £5 bulb than a £100 LED headlamp unit due to water ingress.

It's only a variable resistor, as long as you can make the knob fit you can put a new pot behind it - in the ambulance I've replaced the Webasto control with a custom pot + knob. @Red90 I have a PC interface already, but I don't take a laptop camping with me and the genuine Eber/Webasto diagnostics-capable controllers are a bit old-hat, hence why I was musing about the capabilities of the more modern Chinese ones.

Nope, went D2 PAS box straight off the bat in the end!

Since I'm fitting a coiler steering box to the series for PAS, I need a drop arm. I seem to recall a post on the old forum by someone clever regarding fitting a Disco-something-or-other drop arm because of some very sensible reason or other... but the details escape me! So, which drop arm do I want and why?

Ah, no, I meant actual diagnostics controller using the K-Bus, not just on/off, although I'd be curious if the Chinese controller can be wired straight to the on/off without losing functionality.

What *would* be interesting is to try the Chinese controller / remote with a genuine Eberspacher, because that would be a good upgrade for £15.

Edit: double post!

Not always obvious! The biggest problem with MS is it's tried to be all things to all people, and that makes it a LOT more complicated than it really needs to be. If you remove all the wacky stuff that's only used by 1% of people it would be a great benefit IMHO.

I think you're a bit far from reality in your views - you don't see many Brabus Unimogs around and there's a reason for that! Yes some TLC's have lockers but, again, how often will most users benefit from that Vs a good TC system (which LR undoubtedly has) - be it a coal mine, construction site, horsebox in muddy field, icy roads... all of those are served at least as well by an unobtrusive TC system that requires no training, no levers of buttons, and can't damage the drivetrain through misue / abuse by employees. I also think you're unrealistic about CTIS (if it appears at all) - an automatic system that "just works" is a far better prospect than anything manually controlled as people will always find a way to set it wrong / break it / kill themselves. Look at some of the use-cases quoted, from the army to construction to farming to chelsea tractors, all of those favour ease of operator use / protection from operator error and are getting higher tech all the time - modern plant and farm equipment has more computers than a Bentley, and if the market didn't like it it wouldn't be there. Yes it's not what a lot of us here would want, and we'll have to work around it just as people worked around the many, many flaws of the old Defender, but we are not the target market and never have been.

What Jon said - there's a setting for Nitrous injection but that doesn't mean anything unless you've actually got a NOS kit hooked up to the right pin on the ECU! I believe TSD is to blame for the NOS setting

As a counter - TC can prevent wheel slip on low traction surfaces and whilst turning, which lockers can't do and in fact make worse. If you turn with lockers you by definition must break traction to one wheel, and that makes things worse on surfaces like ice or wet grass. I remember Jez saying the LT230 actually let them drive open-diffed across swamp without tearing the surface whereas people running Jeeps etc. (with a locked transfer case) were tearing the surface when they tried to turn and dropping wheels through the very thin crust into the world of pain below. You also have to remember that most people don't read the manual, don't do diving courses, etc. and WILL claim under warranty of something explodes, so TC is way more idiot-proof and user-friendly than lockers and will perform better in 99% of situations the average customer will find themselves in. Don't get me wrong, I really like having lockers but that's because I care enough to understand how they work, when to use them, and when to leave them off. But I'd also quite fancy having an HDC button in my truck that gets me from the top to the bottom in a straight line at a sensible speed with no drama.

Came across this on the net, it's overkill for a lot of people but some nice ideas in it which some might find useful:

I'd be surprised if MLV is showing you fuel pressure???

The problem is MS can be fitted to almost anything, but their setup may be very different to your setup - crank & cam triggers, double-stacked distributors (wankel!), coil-on-plug direct-drive etc etc. so you've got to be very careful who you copy. LR4x4 is a good base as almost everyone is running the setup Nige sells (either because it came from Nige or because it's a popular and reliable configuration) so almost all the posts, settings, advice and tuning etc. are based on a Rover V8 running MS1 and EDIS with very similar config. Advice found elsewhere for other vehicles could be anything and could be totally wrong for your setup.

The new end was 3/8" BSP I think as the pipe is a gnat's pube under 10mm, not sure what the PAS box ends are as mine's a D2 box, but the stock PAs box pipe thread has been well documented on here by others. Oh and from personal experience you WILL need to get the high-pressure line swaged up by an adult at the hydraulics shop, 1500+PSI is not to be sniffed at and will find its way past anything that's not pukka.

I'm not 100% sure but I suspect trigger angle doesn't apply to EDIS as the EDIS has a fixed trigger angle (it expects the VR sensor to be in a particular place). As for trim angle, that's a tad odd, dunno.

Oh I'm sure the Chinese ones are a perfect copy of the Eberspacher and have all the same safety features... but a cheap knock-off of a safety critical item like a seatbelt or airbag would make me think twice for the same reason. While I'm sure Ebers have quite a markup, I'm also sure the Chinese ones have to have saved money somewhere 'cos you can't sell a £1500 heater for £150 without having done something differently.