FridgeFreezer

VWP do one for £20: https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/p-636-heated-rear-window-timer-relay

It's quite nice that they're not faffing about with idiots like this and charging them to set an example - in the states they're charging people with assault & terrorism for coughing on people or produce.

The airbag-simulator devices I've seen are basically a resistor of the correct value to fool the system into thinking the detonator is still connected. No I don't know the correct value - maybe try a selection kit.

I paid for the whole speedo, I'm going to use the whole speedo I reckon OP's problem is just tyre size and the fact it's a rattly old TDi A TDi in good shape should pull 80mph but the laws of physics dictate it won't get much further due to (the complete lack of) aerodynamics. Also second actually measuring the speed with GPS, LR speedo's are not exactly precision instruments!

I rekcon you'd be better off changing the design to suit the material, a tight clip-together thing like that from a precision injection mould is going to be hard to replicate to close enough tolerance - but there's likely other ways of doing it that would work just as effectively. One thing I'd like to try is lost-PLA metal casting - print the thing and then plop it in sand, pour in molten metal and have a very solid part.

@Arjan apologies, copy & paste failure! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303531627233 just an example @andy _1 the housing is just thin aluminium bent & bolted together.

From what little I've done, setup is everything - getting the thing square, the bed level, and having a rigid printer - a lot of designs seem to assume that unlike a CNC machine, there's no load on the head so it doesn't need to be rigid... wrong! You can see wobbles and inaccuracies in the print layers. Also there's a lot of fine-tuning in the settings that can make a huge difference, but take a lot of farting about to dial in perfectly - and can change when you swap filaments.

Yes, it's in the post: That was literally the first one that popped up on eBay - there's hundreds of them, and you need to look carefully as they all look similar and make very similar claims but some have better or worse features, check; - Single, dual, quad core + amount of RAM fitted - Operating system & version, some run Android 8, some run 5, some run Windows CE. - Some have Wifi, some you can cast your phone screen to them, some need a 3G dongle (but often don't mention it) - Most of them claim DAB, but they almost ALL need a dongle which is both more money and rubbish. - Most have steering-wheel controls - Most have bluetooth but the features & phones supported can vary, especially for fruity phones - Reversing camera / aux video input(s) and outputs, recording (dashcam) to an SD card - How many front & rear USB / aux connections, depending how you want to set it up. In my Jag I replaced the cig lighter with a USB + AUX socket which goes into the back of my unit, very neat... but not all units have those connections

There's a lot of chinese "mechless" single or double DIN head units which have no CD mechanism so are very thin, I fitted one into the ambulance in a simple panel that sits behind the dash: Stereo cost £15 delivered, a pair of cheap Halfords 6x9's mounted in the cab ceiling, it's not going to win any awards but in a Defender at 70mph you don't notice - it's got radio, USB, SD card and AUX input. I've got one a bit like this in my jag, again they can be had for dirt cheap and are thin enough to get into a Defender dash quite easily. Most of them have USB, SD card, Aux input, reversing camera, GPS and bluetooth connection - I added a DAB dongle to mine which was a total waste of time, reception is terrible.

Yeah but portals and small tyres don't half look silly... Acceleration is quite something though

I never found ANY info with mine (bought from Devon 4x4, made by Uroglas) no-one could say if it needed a timer, how much current it drew... mine's just on a switch & relay at the mo.

Them's the ones, yes.

Magnecor are decent quality but very expensive, I got a set custom made by another company called something like "hispeed" (it's in one of the MS threads), but my current sets are all using Nige's DIY kit and work lovely even underwater. The V8's with a dizzy are quite sensitive to leads etc. as the whole system is so marginal and the spark is quite weak.

It's what I did on my heated screen - but after the re-wire I measured the current and it's so low anyway (<10A) that I just run them on the full 12v now. BTW the Freelander dual-fan relay box has the necessary 4 relays to do series/parallel switching for engine cooling fans or heated screens, I've got one running the fans in the 109 and will be doing the same on the ambulance.

That's still shockingly bad unless there's something wrong with either the engine or his right foot...

Glad you found it - and lucky it didn't start a fire!

I'd vote for this too - for the low miles the truck is doing, almost any old V8 will be an easy win and have the grunt required. Also it's all parts-bin stock standard stuff in standard locations.

Well 17kg plus maybe 20kg of gear is still a fair bit to be cantilevered off the front like that - TBH if you wouldn't be happy climbing up there & jumping up & down on it, it's not sturdy enough, rough roads will put some big forces through a vehicle.

Yep, overhanging racks usually brace to the windscreen hinge bolts top of bulkhead or down to the front bumper if they're longer.

Type: Screw, Flange head, thread Metric coarse (std.) M10, length 30mm, finish Black phosphate for controlled torque http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/tools/lrfasteners.html

I think they're a common failure but not a common cause - if there's a leak in the system, the compressor runs flat out and burns itself out and people blame the compressor rather than the 50p bit of pipe with a hole in it.

Cleaning the turbo solenoid? I re-plumbed mine with push-fit pipe after the same failure (pipe rubbed through) and it went for years with no problems, the turbo solenoid isn't that close to the hot stuff.

Standard truck HDPE arches, dirt cheap, hard to destroy. Personally though, I'd rather leave it open so I can hose it out than close it up & discover later it's filled up with cack & gone rusty.

FB is like visiting a lunatic asylum - even people you thought were rational and sensible human beings post utter cack on FB. I have to dip in once a month to update club stuff and that's once too often, if it wasn't for that I'd have deleted my account years ago.

Depends if price of another rad is less than the price of all these other mods to make it work?