FridgeFreezer

Not guilty your honour - it was patched when we got it although the seatbelt mounting plates on both rear wings look like they could do with re-visiting properly sometime soon

Would it be worth bolting a cossie to the FL box, don't know how strong they are?

The motor may well take a kick to start up although a 500W continuously rated inverter should be OK with a 70W fridge. It's feasible that a domestic fridge wouldn't enjoy bumps as the motors are mounted on springs inside the compressor body for noise reduction so the whole thing bounces round if you jiggle them, if you shake a fridge you can hear the motor hitting the walls of the compressor body. Also most of them state in the instructions you should leave the thing to settle for an hour after moving it before running it. I have a 12V Land Rover fridge (made by Wabco) and that runs a compressor but is obviously designed to run in a vehicle.

Who wants a Diesel? I'm talking about a proper BMW engine with a decent gearbox and rear diff Like the cossie idea though, old V6 Granadas are dirt cheap although most seem to be auto

I can't help but think an 80" trialler should have something smaller, lighter, and more nippy under the bonnet - like a 4-pot K-series or similar, mounted transversely.

Countdown mode? That reminds me... Very incredibly unsafe for work / home / children / pets / SWMBO crude and childish unfunny Countdown clip with a very rude word in it so don't click here, no, I won't let you, it's not my fault, they made me do it... Seriously, it's very rude but you'll laugh.

Thinking beyond nuts and bolts, I still like the idea of a RWD freelander using something like a BMW or Supra powertrain. Wonder if there's room to squeeze a BMW 4-pot in?

You can bolt a 300Tdi where a 200 was and visa-versa, a group from the ShireLRC did a Land Rover factory engine & gearbox course and actually tried it in the workshop there when the LR tech didn't know the answer

I have a love grudging admittance of marginal preferability to other suppliers/hate relationship with Faddocks - they're about the most convenient and cheapest way to get all the parts you need, but they do cock it up every now and again, and the service you receive when they do can be variable. I have a hate/hate relationship with Britpart stuff, it's pretty much total cack.

I thought this may help others with similarly rusty vehicles. Our subject is Dad's Range Rover, an off-road toy that never gets washed and surprisingly then failed its MOT on rust. Initially I was a bit concerned about how to make a decent shaped repair section for the C pillar but it came out pretty well and I wasn't being particularly fussy as the vehicle doesn't warrant it. Obviously you are welcome to make a better job of yours So, starting with the one I have more photos of, a classic RR rust point, the C-pillar to wheelarch: And the base of the wheelarch too: A tickle with the wire wheel in the grinder reveals a bit more than was apparent: Cut away the crud, going for square edges makes sticking in a new bit easier: Weld some new bits in - repair bits were a flat plate along the bottom and then a strip bent to be as close to the not-quite-square profile of the door pillar. Wheel arch repair panel was a flat plate with a slight bend courtesy of being thwacked over the drum of my H14 It's not the prettiest ever welding but it should hold. Grind some of the least pretty bits back and then paint, and it looks a bit more presentable: Next was a small hole on the inner wing - or so it seemed. A good tickle with the wire brush in the grinder and then cutting out all the rusty metal actually resulted in this little gap to be filled: And similar in the battery box end: A little bit of cutty-weldy later and it's a bit better:

You mean lose the resistor pack? That's PWM not battery voltage correction. I'd just find a 3.9 fuel rail & injectors and use that as they don't need a resistor pack.

Ryan - Ash is right, JATE rings are OK but if you're proper stuck they're underneath everything Al's suggestion gets my vote, I'm happy to wave a welder at your front bumper although may be tight for time if you need it done by Bunny Lane. Alternatively, pin hitches are £13 each from Towsure, two M16 bolts through your bumper and it's not coming off.

God bless joined-up government

MS does have voltage compensation: Note "battery voltage correction" below: Although I don't know anyone who's ever had to alter it from the default.

No you just need the wideband sensor & controller although many controllers also have other optional inputs for data-logging other sensors, however it's usually easier to log the AFR as a parameter from the engine ECU than the other way round.

Been meaning to upload this for ages - thanks to Rog my dizzy has been decapitated: Plastic cover courtesy of a tube of Colgate

I'm sure that'll please Twizzle as he's meticulously saved the entire Disco front end loom and swapped it across...

You could rip something out of a Rover car, I'm led to believe the 220 turbo lumps will fit, as will the 2.0. Mind you, just dropping a decent 1.8 back in with the better head gasket and dowels etc. could be easiest.

If it was only the one hammer that was probably the Freelander course, more hammers moves you up the scale until you're allowed to work on Defenders. A bit like the McDonalds star badges

And if you are thinking of an S1 with a RR engine & box & axles you also need to look at SVA information

Please note this is the mickey-mouse version and the real explanation is far more complicated and accurate: Wideband sensors are much cleverer than narrow-band, they are actually sort of two narrowbands in one - one in the exhaust and one exposed to air. The controller pumps current about the place to balance the readings of the two, the amount of current it's pumping to keep the thing in balance tells it what the AFR is, which it then outputs as a voltage for the ECU to read. I'm sure the MegaManual / Wikipedia / Innovate website will tell you more.

One after the Y will be fine, that's what I've done. You only need them per-bank if you're going to be tuning per-bank which is more involved than I can be bothered with quite frankly - it's a slippery slope to trying to trim each cylinder I would go for heated (3-wire or 4-wire) in a narrowband one, just take the heater feed form the fuel pump feed, they don't draw much. All wideband ones are heated anyway so there's no getting away from that, you need the sensor & controller to run wideband. Innovate & TechEdge are good VFM.

You'll need a wideband lambda for that, just to be clear.

The newly installed wading plug & breather setup on my bellhousing I've used a push-fit connector with a blanking plug in, to drain it you just remove the blanking cap, no tools required

Chris - I don't think it's worth it, a tickle with some emery paper may do it and I'm not particularly inclined to dismantle the whole shooting match now it's together. That's assuming they'd send me decent stubs or give me the money to buy genuine, both of which seem doubtful. Genuine oil seals now in my possession so guess what I'm doing this 'noon?