FridgeFreezer

Sorry mate, bit busy but ratchet straps are your friends

Give me some time I'll take photos & measurements of my G2F kit and revolvers.

Update: I had a feeling something wasn't right so I searched the forum, and came across this thread which has solved the mystery. Turns out the parts probably do fit where they're supposed to, but there's been one of those classic "Faddocks phone sales" moments Basically they appear to have sent me MR874 (which in actual part# terms is FRC8222 - hub seal OUTER) rather than FRC8221 (hub seal INNER), of course being Faddocks own part number on the packet doesn't help. Also rather unfortunately I'd got the seals a while ago on a separate order as spares, which means those are outside the time frame for any reasonable shouting. As the thread above points out, MR874's will fit where the inner seal is supposed to, sort of so in my haste to get the thing done I had assumed it was just a cr*p fit and stuck it all together. Happily though the local LR stealers has a couple of genuine RTC3511's in stock for a very reasonable price, which are the earlier type and supposedly better version of the inner oil seal. So, no shouting at Faddocks this morning (not for this, anyway) as at best it would be tricky to prove from an invoice that shows I ordered a set of MR874's that what I said down the phone was FRC8221 not 8222. I guess the lesson is double-check what they send you very closely I still need to speak to them about my order for Freelander air & oil filters where I said "Anything but Britpart" and guess what turned up... At least that one's easy to spot I suppose.

That's funny 'cos I was going to say by the time you've paid Mark Adams to tune the thing on a rolling road you could've fitted MS, downloaded my fuel & spark maps to it and then run the auto-tune routine a couple of times. Not knocking Omex, or Emerald, but I've yet to see either of them do anything that MS can't. Edited to add: Jeebus, I've just seen the price of the Omex 710, you could buy three MS ECU's for that.

I wouldn't worry about the transfer box ratio, unless you're running big tyres it will pull a 90 along with the 1.222:1 ratio (which is almost all RR & Disco stuff), the early 3-speed autos were 1:1 but they're not so common. If you find one I'm on the lookout for one though

He was a fine nutter, yes but the business proved to be more work than fun so he sold up to CPC and Andy (Whitepeak) took the coiler stuff to QT.

Yes - although the first one appears to be an LT85, a Defender LT77 or R380 would also do the job although I don't think they ever put either of those in a V8 defender. I bought my R380 from Ashcrofts with a V8 bellhousing and Defender rear end. And no, you can't just swap bellhousings although you could use a 4-pot to V8 adapter plate.

The £100+ thing will be fine, two stub axles at £65 each plus all the other stuff it was over £200.

Defender tailhousing: RR/Disco Tailhousing:

Handy post Nige, I hadn't thought of calling the credit card company. FWIW I know pattern parts are often poor, but this is a play truck that does maybe 1k miles in a year so even bearings made of chocolate would be acceptable for the use it gets, what I'm p*ssed about is the fact none of it fits properly. Which reminds me...

I'm not sure if it's the seal or the stub axle that's out (or both), it seemed a pretty loose fit when I offered it up. Conversely the wheel bearings had to be drifted onto the stub axle as the end seemed to not be machined quite right. I don't expect pattern parts to last as long as genuine but is it unreasonable to expect them to actually be made right in the first place, especially at £65 per stub axle. All I did was assemble the hub, refill the axle with EP90 and drive it ~6ft forwards onto the grass, one look underneath and there's oil p*ssing down the shiny new brake disc.

Defender gearboxes the gearshift is brought forwards by about a foot, RR/Disco ones the gearstick pretty much comes straight out of the top of the gearbox at the back. You can't swap linkages over, the whole back of the gearbox is different. Ask me how I know.

If you're going to be playing traffic-light Grand Prix (or is it grand pricks?) you definitely don't want to be using the original S1 drivetrain.

I keep forgetting to undo the locking pins on my spring mounts I will try to remember this weekend and get some pics or maybe even video. Haven't got the revolvers fitted at the mo.

Just a scenario for you: Suppose someone had bought a set of, oh, let's call them Faddocks Land Rover Parts own-brand stub axles, wheel bearings, oil seals, brake discs and pads to repair one's Range Rover with. Upon fitting them, suppose the fit of these parts was so poor that no sooner had the EP90 gone into the axle than it had appeared out of the hubs, run down the brake disc and contaminated the new pads, which would hypothetically leave said person at a high state of miff having spent all evening in the p*ssing rain rebuilding the hubs. What do you suppose that person might reasonably expect Faddocks to do to rectify this, given the trade descriptions act and all that stuff? Obviously this is just an imaginary scenario and bears no resemblance to any actual parts supplier

If they will tear about dressed as power-rangers with the wrong number of wheels

My cam is an RP4 in a 4.6, don't have specs but perhaps tuning data from mine may help? That reminds me - Ian, any chance you could send me an updated spark map, I think I'm still running the "boosted" one

See you all there. I think Dave is actually lurking on this forum somewhere

Meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Sorted my breathers and might even seal my snorkel up for this

If they didn't do the rest of the work (new dowels etc.) then they have not done it properly, I would complain and either demand they put it right or ask for some money back. The engines are used in Lotus & Caterham and on their forums they all use the Land Rover upgraded parts on their cars.

You can get both, I have a CD MP3 player which you can get about 10 or more albums on, and I find that is enough for even a very long journey! DVD ones are more expensive, my CD unit is JVC and only cost about £70, all the DVD ones were £200 or more. They work like a normal CD player, or an imaginary CD multi-changer. You put the disc in and it plays the first MP3 it finds, usually in the first folder it finds, and works through. You can skip tracks, or skip folders (if you put one album per folder it makes life easier) just like skipping a disc with a CD changer. DVD ones work the same too, but a lot of them have screens for playing video and some have the controls on the screen more like a PC.

Very wise, water in the engine can mean a brand new engine or an expensive rebuild. As well as wading plugs, you'll need to extend your axle, gearbox, transfer box breathers and I think on TDI's people drill and tap a hole in the timing cover and fit a breather there too. 1/8" BSP to push-fit pneumatic connectors are what's needed, they're pennies from hydraulics suppliers. Obviously this one needs a bit of tube stuck in it to breathe through Snorkels are easy enough though, Safari ones are popular or there's the B&Q route for the more frugal.

All the info I've seen is that the updated HG and stiffener that bolts in the sump pretty much solve the problem. I'd just keep it, as long as you keep an eye on it you can avoid another HGF doing major damage.

You don't really need a donor S1, panels are available (both normal and GRP looky-likes) and all that's left on most triallers is a front grille and maybe the wings. Tomcat & QT do 80" versions of their trucks and would probably sell you panels, I suspect that's more what you're after rather than a fully restored S1 look.

Got mine from Silverline too, they are the importers it seems so unlikely you'll beat them on price.