FridgeFreezer

Why do you want to stick to 205? You can fit slightly bigger tyres without any trouble and ground clearance is a big factor off-road. I'd put the tallest set you can comfortably get away with on there. A lot of guys are running Machos here and they're very good, especially for the money.

If your mate thinks it's an air leak then I'd have a hunt around and see if you can find an air leak - a can of aerosol carb cleaner sprayed onto strategic points (EG hose joints) will cause a brief cough if it's leaking into the inlet manifold. Just don't spray it about the place too liberally as it's rather flammable Are the NGK Platinum plugs fancy type or just expensive normal ones, 'cos V8's don't like fancy plugs - normal NGK BP6RES seem to give best results. With LPG it's important to have a strong spark so good HT leads (as in genuine parts not fancy pants brightly coloured tat) will help.

Probably kettle on standby

No fat ass resistors, it's far more elegant than that:

Ryan - if you need some Loctite threadlock and a selection of pullers I'm about all weekend working on the fleet you're welcome to pop over and wave spanners about here. I'd offer to come to you but I'm not sure how long any of the jobs here are gonna take.

There's always an exception of course, but if the weakness of the top half of Land Rovers was a major safety thing I think it would've been highlighted sometime in the past 60 years yes an external cage is a good idea but then you could say the same about a Clio - you're far more likely to survive an accident in one of those if you weld in a comp spec roll cage too but I don't see many people doing it on their daily driver

I think it's very hard to make conveyor belt ones look anything more than presentable, and even that seems to be a struggle for some. Granted some people really don't care but having been there and done it I'm quite glad I've got some nice, easy-to-fit, light-weight plastic arches and not a section of rubber. Miketomcat has done a very neat job with his, but then he's a total swine who seems to be able to make things that fit An example of the problems of too much rubber:

For Hampshire & surrounding areas I heartily recommend The Shire Land Rover Club, membership is only £10 per year. Events calendar is on the website, a few dates are TBC at the moment but that should be changing soon.

Patches on the chassis aren't necessarily bad - a couple of neat patches on a rust-prone area tells you it's at least been done properly. However, most tend to be orrible bodges involving offcuts of washing machines and usually more filler/silicone sealant than actual welding. The bulkhead is the firewall, yes. It rusts at the bottom, the top by & under the door hinges / vent flaps, the footwells, and under the windscreen. Hell, it rusts everywhere that's not immediately next to a hot engine Weld-in repair panels are available for not much but it's a pig of a job what with all the wiring can such like running through it and lots of other bits attached to it. A complete galvanised bulkhead can be yours for around £300 if memory/eBay serves me correctly, however a bulkhead swap is also a right old job. Not technically difficult, just a hell of a job. Aluminium corrosion generally shows up round fasteners, especially where ali bodywork meets steel brackets / chassis etc. and where the metal frame of the door meets the aluminium skin - most often seen as a load of bubbles along the bottom ~2" of the door skin. You can attack it with paint / waxoyl to slow it down but if it's really got hold there's not much you can do as it turns to powder. New panels are easily available but swapping them can be a task.

If the clutch is stuck on I'd try some WD40 and a tap with an aircooled flatness adjuster as a first port of call.

Mine are setup as per Bull Bar Cowboy's excellent wiring diagram so both fans come on slowly then both come on fast rather than one going full pelt. Wot Nige said - don't run without a stat, the TDi's especially don't like it as you get steam pockets in the heads.

Unless you do some stupid maneuver that causes it to roll over I'd say it's fairly unlikely on normal roads. For reference quite a few other things fold up like that if you put them on the roof, it's usually if there's a separate chassis so the bodywork doesn't have to take any load. I've seen more than one flat SJ at a site day after a small roll.

Oh dear, the boy's got it bad welcome to the fold

Surely with a locked/b*ggered VC and no front shafts 100% of the power is going to go to the rear? Just wondering if the IRD would spit its dummy or be OK with it.

It's one way of doing it, but a lot of it is not how I'd do it and not how others have done it. A RRC or Disco is almost identical as a base.

Is it possible to fix it so it's RWD not 4WD? I know people take the rear prop off when the IRD goes to avoid buying a new one, I'd prefer RWD to FWD though just for the giggle

What Grant said - joining a good club will pay dividends. Having a poke round the forums here will give you insights into ownership - what goes wrong, how to fix it and stuff you can tweak. An older rebuilt vehicle with a galvanised chassis and a good bulkhead could be a better bet than just buying the newest you can afford, condition is more important than mileage. A truck covered in accessories is never worth the sum of its parts so don't fall for anyone who tries to make out that a £2k vehicle with £3k worth of extras is worth more than about £3000, and that's if it's tastefully done, well-fitted and quality stuff that you actually want. Chequerplate is worth precisely nothing and goes down in value the more of it there is plastered over the thing, especially when it's used to hide crusty panels, dents, and rusty bits of chassis. As for what to look for: - Chassis rust, have a damn good poke and be suspicious of stuff caked with waxoyl/black sealant, it should ring true not rattle or thunk (or fall apart) when tapped with a knocking stick. - Bulkhead rust, see above but be on the lookout for filler and stuff hiding behind hinges/panels and bubbling out. Everything else is varying degrees of nuts and bolts. If it's a 200/300 TDi check it's good as a new one is money. Although most things can be fixed, TDi heads can still get expensive. A few oil leaks are usual but nothing should be dripping wet or need constant topping up. The power steering box will always leak from the bottom seal, a little moist patch is probably to be expected, more than that and expect to have to fork out for a new box at ~£200. Door frames and body cappings can rust, doors are money (£250 pair) and can get beyond repair without showing it past the plastic trim. Cappings are a fiddle to replace but not rocket science and early galvanised ones stop the problem. Gearbox should shift nicely and not be noisy. Transfer box (hi/low & difflock lever) may be stiff to change if it's not been used off-road, they are pretty solid. Only weak spot is input gear which will manifest itself as a clonk on taking up drive and going from forward to reverse. Assuming the gearbox splines aren't too worn it's £50 for a cross-drilled input gear and ten minutes crawling round underneath to change it.

Aah, K, for some reason I thought you had a Disco.

Bang on, just phoned them, stock is coming in next week and they're about £130 for a pair. Pricey but quite tempting since the screen needs replacing anyway. For those who don't click links, Uroglas are on 01527 577477.

Al - why not start a welding shop, you seem to be accumulating welders anyway so may as well make some money

Captive nuts in the rear tub? All mine are M8x20 nut & bolt.

As Al points out, you'd still need the mother of all electricity supplies - if it draws 64A from 3 phases it'll probably need 3x that, which pretty much rules out any domestic supply. If it involves re-winding the main transformer (which at a guess it does) then going from 415V to 230V you will double the current and you're then looking at silly things like a 400A supply at 230v, at which point the electric company slap you with a fish and tell you to stop being silly and install 3-phase

For full on luxury buy a plug-in timer for it too so you don't have to remember to switch it on. Just remember to unplug it before driving off!

6kW? Is that using engine coolant, fuel burner, or does it plug into the cigarette lighter socket to draw the 400+ amps required to kick out 6kW of heat from electricity alone?

Unless it's for threaded bits on engine/gearbox/axle that can't be changed then just use metric.