FridgeFreezer

Cheers David, I called them but they're not answering so will try again later and report back with a price.

Shouldn't be hard to trace, just fiddly to get to - there'll be a feed from the sidelight switch position to the bulbs, and a ground. One or the other will go via the dimmer.

You could install a higher flow pump, I think the Rover one is pretty poor compared to most. Mine is a ZF pump from a BMW.

Assuming I translated that correctly, they're +2". Yours being a Disco, if memory serves, which means your bodywork is wider anyway and you'll want RR/Disco arches not Defender ones.

Have you uprated the axle internals at all? That's quite an aggressive tyre choice for standard parts. Not that it's not doable, just may not prove reliable if the red mist comes down...

I think you need a flyer or need to know someone with a flyer, however the dates on mine are 6th and 13th of Jan.

It's only 'cos there's an airbox where the heater should be, I'm not going soft yet!

Don't let Ash spot you calling his Bowler a Tomcat It's true Simex love sand though, going down!

Aaah, I wondered who that was, I thought I'd tail you for a bit because of the lights but my cruising speed is a bit lower than yours thanks to my axles being the low-ratio flavour. On road it's like driving a slightly taller, lower-geared Land Rover, with tyres and transfer box you can bring the gearing back to almost standard, I'm sticking with "small" tyres to avoid bodywork mods (not to mention credit card mods) so my gearing is a bit low on-road. Apart from the height, it drives just like anything else. The fact you gain ~5" clearance with no suspension lift is a bonus. Off-road, well, I'm still getting used to it - apart from going in silly deep water I've not got it stuck yet with the decent tyres on. The low gearing is great for trickling over things, the difflocks are rather useful as is the clearance, and the fact you're not going to grenade something if you floor it makes life less stressful as you can use the loud pedal without fear. As an alternative, Mog portals are cheaper to buy but more hassle to fit and weigh twice as much. Check out DirtyDiesel's G-Wagen in the member's vehicles forum for how it's done. I'll be at Bunny Lane on the 27th so feel free to collar me.

Do it!

For those who don't read Jules' spelling, it's the Empress of Blandings pub on the Copythorne road.

That very much depends on what you can do and what you'd need others to do. I tripped over my axles ludicrously cheap and for some reason Jez agreed to help me build the truck so I had an adult on hand to glue the important bits together. Assuming you don't have such good luck, the going rates seem to be: Set of Volvos as removed from a C303 - £2250 (may be +/- a little due to gearing, the high ratio ones are rarer and can fetch more, the low ratio ones are worth a little less) Portaltek disc kit is $3300 so about £1500 give or take with some P&P. God knows how much for fitting, it's all down to what you're doing and how much you need to get done by others. I wouldn't bank on Jez having the free time to do a build until after the next Ladoga although IMHO it's worth getting someone with some experience to do it, I've seen more than one absolute shocker of an axle swap done by "professionals" that was just waiting to fall apart. It all sounds a bit expensive until you price up a set of uprated Rovers, and remember that lots of people run 40" tyres on stock Volvos without issues.

Since I have a bit of a steaming up issue in my cab, and effectively heating a barn like a 109 is quite a task, I was wondering if you can get heated windscreens for Series vehicles? I'm sure they used to exist but I can't find any mention of them on google. Before anyone says it, no I'm not putting a Defender screen & roof on just to get a heated screen.

I can confirm that the Crawlers work well on sand and clean well if you spin them up.

Thanks guys, for what it's worth I do my portals bigstyle, I'm still not as capable as a driver as the vehicle is The only comment I'd make about the GPC arches is you need either a very long drill bit or a very pointy nosed drill to get the holes straight due to the flare of the arch, I ended up using a B&Q dremel style thing which worked but still wasn't perfect.

I got mine from GPC on eBay, cost £100 brand new because they supposedly had cosmetic blemishes (jiggered if I can find any) and I'm very pleased with them. They're plastic not glass.

As a mate is fond of pointing out, that's why Ibexes don't have a single level body panel on the front, so people can't stand cups of tea on them.

If you mean the pressed steel braces that run under the rear floor, they're available new from Paddocks and the like for around £12 each, except the wider one that goes under the rear seats of a CSW which I made myself by folding up a channel, notching it and capping it from ~1mm galv sheet. Not technically difficult but if I could've just bought one I would. Part number is 330265 or possibly superseded now. I know I bought a set less than a year ago from Paddocks.

No experience of this specific one but most aircon compressor clutches (the fangled contrivance the pulley mounts to on the front of the compressor) have a single +12v feed to engage them. When they're not engaged the pulley will freewheel and the centre (connected to the compressor internals) will stay still.

Millions - The ShireLRC.com gallery - every Bunny Lane day of 2007 B) There's also me & Rich (DLander) mucking about in the water on video: Me messing about in the water Me & Rich splashing about in puddles It's not as big as Slab but there's plenty to do, some decent hills, some big holes and plenty of mud. Here's a few pics from recent times:

The bellhousing and cover plate are indeed sealed with lovely black goo, my best guess is it's either the clutch slave or starter letting it in as the V8 R380 bellhousing has no drain plug hole however I'm now intent on drilling & tapping one Based on the theory that shoving clean water into it isn't going to do any more harm than the dirty water that's already in there I may drill a 1/2" or maybe 3/4" hole in the top so I can get a fibre optic light and an extended squirty oil/grease thing in there and at least prolong the life of things a little. The clutch release bearing is a Rakeway billet one rather than the standard plastic bodied jobbie. Ciderman is of course correct, really there's no substitute for a good stripdown & cleanup (which many bits will be getting after all the sand at Slab) it's just that I'd rather not have to do a clutch job in the freezing cold if I can avoid it.

After a little bit of deep wading at Slab at the weekend, I seem to have silt in my bellhousing judging by the noise the clutch makes when the pedal's pressed setup is V8 with R380 long bellhousing Ideally I'd like to clean it out (probably just with a good blast from the hose) and get some fresh grease to the release bearing but without splitting the engine & box - I guess the options are remove starter or remove clutch slave, can anyone venture any advice on which is likely to provide better access or be less of a PITA to do?

If they yellow knob won't stay down it's not stuck in 4WD it's stuck in 2WD - I hate to ask this but do you know how the Series knobs work?

The flyer I've got says they pay the VAT, what they really mean is the total price is going to be their usual ex-VAT price, or just under 15% to you & me. The offer is only for Clarke stuff, everything else is 10% off.