FridgeFreezer

Is this another attempt to find something that will stand up to the huge V8 you've got up front? I wouldn't bother with anything LR made unless you spend a pile of cash on uprated internals.

The neighbours are cool with it, they both have shed/workshop/garages that the council don't know about so we reached an agreement that I wouldn't bother the nice man from the council and they wouldn't either

Doesn't sound massively dodgy, give him a ring. A mate sold his RR to a dutch guy on eBay, he was convinced it was a scam but the chap turned up, paid cash and then went on a UK tour collecting a ton of other parts he'd won before driving it home. Seems things cost more in Holland.

People, especially "normal" mechanics, talk a load of balls about retreads. If they were dodgy people wouldn't be allowed to sell 'em.

Stop reading my secret plans!

I'll remember that once next time I'm chatting to Greenpeace, wonder if we could get a petition up to make LR fit them from the factory on emissions grounds?

Did you mean... All I said was they are standard Series handles I have two sets, one on the back of my 109 (1978 CSW) and another set that were on the back of my replacement chassis (1980-something 109 pickup), the parts book doesn't give details of which were fitted to what but my guess is that the type you are after were maybe a a CSW thing because of the back door mounted spare, hence the handles being further out. Could be a 109 thing due to length or general superior quality

Could be a dead coil or dodgy dizzy, most common cuplrit for failure is the ignition amp.

Cross bracing - you only need one cross in each plane, incldung the roof (which at the moment you don't have.) So I need a diagonal across the roof? That's doable. If I dropped half the spans out (at 2400mm not 1200mm intervals) and put X's in instead would that be a more efficient use of material? Strength to span that far - hmmm, dunno, but you could easily make up a shallow truss. Wind loading is complicated and I cannot be @rsed to dig out the buildings code. A shallow truss may interfere with the top of the 109, I'm now (even more) considering raising the roof by a bit to give me room to put trusses & lights (etc.) in. Just make sure (and I am being serious now ) that it doesn't blow away!! Plan is to rawl-bolt plates to the concrete and weld the uprights to them. Don't forget you will need lighting in there so make sure you don't smash them each time you park the 109 The glitterball will be tucked into a corner I think, out of harm's way

Next step - have you got a spark? The firing of the coil triggers the ECU to fire the injectors, no spark = no fuel. Obviously also no spark=no go anyway

I only need to push my pedal half way down to get the same amount of power out

And the pedal never got pushed more than 1/2 way down

He's right - the coil gets +12v from ignition switched live and the amp grounds the -ve side.

I thought I'd start a new topic since my last shed plan was while the 109 was in build and I ended up taking people's (very wise) advice and just living with being cold and wet and finishing the vehicle. Anyway, now it's done and I want somewhere warm and dry for it to live. It already stands on a concrete slab that was handily there when I moved in. Planning permission has been negotiated locally (don't ask) so all I need now is a design. Well, I've got a design but not being in the construction trade and having lost my big book of DIY for dummies I thought I'd post it up here to get a sanity check. Construction is intended to be steel box of 50x50 although I may have found a source of some surplus 40x40 which I'm hoping will save money and be up to the job. I'm reluctant to use timber as it seems to resist being welded together Cladding will be sheets of ply or similar, hence why as much as possible has been done in 1200x2400 sizes or multiples thereof. I may add some cosmetical stuff on the outside to keep the neighbours happy. Roofing I'm still not 100% sure on, corrugated roof stuff (there seems to be a selection of stuffs from steel to polycarb) is slightly in the lead on price. And so to the plans, first up - the layout of my garden: The guy with the garage often parks his car in front of it which means a door that swings out, or up, could find itself blocked. Since I have acquired the parts necessary to make a sliding door, that's the plan. So, the actual garage plan itself: Just to explain the margin doodlings, the existing concrete slab is 26' by 12'9 and the 109 is 8' high. Converting to metric and rounding a few things gave me the plan to make it 3m high on the "high" side, sloping to a standard-panel 2.4m high on the garden side, 7.6m wide to allow a gap between shed & fences, and 4.8m deep giving me a straight four-panel-wide cladding job on the ends. Side profile: I have marked on the height of the 109 - the plan is to have benches along the lower side so the lack of height shouldn't be a problem - making it higher, which would be nice, takes me into cloudy waters with planning Alley facing wall: Garden facing wall: I have designed in a removable section so that I can get large things (EG vehicles) in & out of the garden if needed. Roof: My main areas of cluelessness are: - Will 40 or 50mm box section be sufficient to span 4.8m of the roof (if not, what will?) - Is the roof slope OK? Would more/less be better? - How do you make a sliding door so that it is secure and can be locked/unlocked from either side - Suggestions for cladding/roofing materials - Is there enough cross-bracing in it? - Am I daft making it out of steel when wood/blocks would be better (if so, why? bearing in mind my likely incompetence at carpentry or brickwork) The more I look at this, the more I think making it a tad higher would be wise - don't want to overshadow the neighbours too much but equally don't want to end up scraping my roof on the top of the door Might measure the neighbour's shed see how it compares.

OK no they're not, and there's definitely not a pair bolted to the back of my Series from the factory And being so rare the part numbers almost certainly aren't NRC 5606 (Right) and NRC 5607 (left) as opposed to 300816 which your second picture shows. We can only hope that one day the government de-classify the information on whether this was a CSW thing due to the rear-mounted spare or just a random change-point, although with the current levels of national security I doubt we'll find out any time soon.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the AWDC is a club not a business

They're standard Series ones.

Nekarth They sent me an e-mail in very bad English that looked a lot like spam, but they seem to be genuine - never heard of 'em myself

Some you can, yes.

Peter - yes Quite a bit in the tech archive about it, or have a read of Nige's thread which I think explains most things.

I'd get in touch with the S1 club - they should be able to tell you all about them. I don't think you'll lose money on it - buy the lot, see what's what and either do a resto yourself or sell it all on and spend the dosh on the ratty S2 plaything.

If I were going on an expedition I wouldn't be fitting anything made by Britpart

I like that suggestion Andy - do it! Another slightly more sensible one:

True - but at least when they were sponsoring AWDC it wasn't quite as painful, now I'd just be lining Colon's pockets and I'm not sure I could take that.

There is a sh*tload of DRM (Digital Rights Management) with the iPod and iTunes, if you have more than one PC you can't move music between the two as it thinks you're copying things to all your mates. There is a freeware iPod control program that can get round it to a greater or lesser degree I think. Depends if he is such a fashion victim that he absolutely must have an iPod, or if one of the many similar ones available would do the trick. Many of the cheapo ones have no restrictions on them at all.