FridgeFreezer

You have a 4-speed auto, ZF4HP22 box. The 3-speed ones were much earlier and only have D-2-1 on the shifter. Fact for the day: The 3-2-1 selection stops it from changing up higher than that number, but it will still change down lower (quite a lot of people think it locks it in that gear, which it doesn't)

Dave - I'm not talking green oval, just off-roading in general. Imagine Practical Performance Car but with more mud.

RPi are stuck in the 80's still selling Mallory dizzies and Weber carbs, I'd take anything they say with a pinch of salt, especially when it's some expensive bit of clockwork that they're trying to sell you. I dunno how much a mallory dizzy is these days, but depending what's wrong there are options of varying cost to sort different problems - Ranging from EDIS with either MegaJolt or MegaSquirt, to £25 for a GM ignition module to replace the stock amp.

You don't say what aspect ratio you'd be fitting - 205R16's are 80% (if memory serves, so really 205/80R16) so your 255's would need to be 255/65R16 to be even close to the same diameter. To calculate old Vs new size, have a look 1/3 the way down this page for a calculator. Even then, assuming you can match the height, odd widths will look strange. Plus, in matching the height of the 205's, you're missing out on the chance to fit taller tyres and increase ground clearance. I'd bit the bullet and upgrade the whole set rather than having odd tyres.

Twosheds - you were obviously typing as I was replying Yes an unheated 1-wire one would be fine, although they're actually pretty rare nowadays (most are heated). You can use a heated one without connecting the heater, it will work the same, although for the sake of two wires I'd run it heated. You're right on the mounting - hack 6" of exhaust out at the scrappy with a sensor in it, cut a lump out and weld it on. It's how I do mine. Sensor up the tailpipe I'm not so sure about, I wouldn't guarantee it'd work.

OK, Moglite et al make good points - no-one's making us buy the mags, and I don't buy them for that very reason. However, to turn this round a bit - given how many members this forum and others have, there is clearly a demand for something that does not currently exist and that goes a step or three further than the current crop of comics. Soooo why the bally flip won't someone print one?

Not quite - you weld the boss into the exhaust, screw the lambda sensor in and then the voltage it puts out will be 0-1v. 0v is very lean, 1v is very rich, 0.454v is 14.7:1 air fuel ratio. The multimeter is just to display the volts, to be bling you could use one of these gauges: They're not mega-bucks from most "tunin' and stylin' and loud stereos innit" type places, I think Halfords may even sell them. Ignore the b*ll*cks about accuracy, the only accurate reading is at 0.454v, otherwise all you can tell is it's a bit/quite/very rich or lean, but frankly for a carb setup that should be plenty.

Just realised I never posted a pic of the finished article So from this: To this: Got some proper tyres on it now though... and wheel arches waiting to be fitted.

I opted out of buying an ali rad when I saw how hard it is to repair one. They're undoubtedly more efficient and lighter though. Why pay to get exhaust gas analysed? £5 gets you a lambda sensor, £3.99 gets you a multimeter - voila! Welcome to the 20th century

I've just stuck a JVC MP3 CD player in the freelander for £70 from Halfords - you can fit 10 CD's worth on one CD-R. Well chuffed with it. Plus I can carry ~100 CDs worth in my little CD wallet.

Being a 3.9 Hotwire I'd say go for the 92-94 book as mine (86-91) doesn't cover the 3.9 or hotwire setups. RTC9961CB Range Rover Classic Parts Book - 1992-94

If you put a floor anchor in, make sure you put it in a spot where you can trip over it, stub your toe on it, and kneel on the bolt heads easily In other words, I'd try to recess something into the floor.

Oh yeah, if you get stuck this is the recovery method without getting your feet wet: You don't have to use Twizzle though

Les - you have a point about the legal situation, but the US mags (where litigation is king) seem to get away with writing all sorts of tech, so I can't believe it's a real issue. As for "joe public isn't interested", sorry but I think that's wrong, Joe Public probably would be interested in all sorts of daft stuff if only the mags would ever print any of it. We get more extreme stuff at play days than the average copy of LRO.

Brushes could be gunged up, squirt the hose through it for a bit then douse with WD40 (try to get it inside esp. the back) to dry it out. They don't mind clean water, but mud will clog them up. Have had to unstick the brushes on dad's alt quite a few times.

Depending on pennies, you could do worse than look at a custom rad like mine & Nige's - wide spaced fins, wide thick cores - doesn't clog up with mud, stands up to a pressure washer, holds loads more water than a stock one. Cost about £250 but that's made from scratch and it cools the 4.6 nicely.

Very few people run with them on. Stock shocks don't like being used as a check strap, but many aftermarket ones (ProComp for example) have internal stops as standard.

I'll book the leave now - when's the ferry?

It won't be able to see what's happening at the tip, but my camera has taken numerous photos of welding. Always get a strange haze effect round the Stig though

No excuse to peddle the same old b*ll*cks to the masses, rather than educate them they are just keeping them ill-informed thinking that bolt-on is the pinncale of modification and that Scrapiron are gods amongst men. The mags should be educating people to grow the popularity of off-roading, not keeping them as dumb sheep buying the same old carp and going nowhere with an empty wallet and feeling inferior to Her Royal Highness Ed Cobley for not having the entire contents of Scrapiron's shop attached to their car. As a parallel, Practical Performance Car is for the masses but contains guides to engine swaps, welding, suspension design, DIY tuning (as in build your own flow-bench, ECU, port your own heads, etc.) and all manner of stuff. Yes they tell you where you can buy bling off-the-shelf, and where that's a better option than DIY, but they also tell you how to have a go yourself on a budget if you want to. Often, until someone shows you how to do a job you have no idea how easy it could be. But of course, far better to pay an advertiser to do it than teach people how to do it for themselves

Unless it's immaculate I'd be reluctant to go much over £2k - you can buy an old V8 110 for £1k or even less (a mate paid £200 for a half decent one a while back) and do the TDi thing for £500 if you are careful. Got any piccies of it? Don't let a cost of paint fool you, it can be hiding a right rotten vehicle. On an F plate I would be tapping everything with a hammer - a set of doors can set you back a few quid, bulkhead welding is mostly doable but a right hassle, and if the chassis hasn't been replaced I would be surprised if it had a great deal of life left in it.

They can stick - driving in a figure 8 (on a soft surface) works, or jack a wheel and rock it. Depends what's stuck really - actuator or mechanism.

We've all been there I think A few thoughts; - Your header tank should have a low pickup (some have a pickup tube inside to a high connection on the outside) that goes to the small tube on the top of the rad. Make sure that's right, connecting a vent tube instead would lead to air being drawn in. Your piccy looks right but without seeing where the pipes go it's hard to tell 100% - You can buy brass rad caps (I believe they're a stock BSP thread or similar) or a bling X-Eng ali one - Your rad sounds like prime suspect, you could try running some Rad Flush through although I doubt it'll make enough difference to avoid buying a new one. If you blast a hose in one port, does it come out of the other end at the same speed?

I found that with my '85 RR, a lot of bits are actually '86. No harm buying both, parts books are a very good investment and will save you a lot of time.

I am subscribed to Petersen's 4-wheel & Off-road. Still waiting to see if Mr Kidd comes good on his promise to bring TOR up to scratch.