FridgeFreezer

It does mount up a bit, but then for ~£100 more you could have full MegaSquirt. Compare that to an Emerald / Omex / Webcon setup with similar capabilities and it's knocking on 1/5th the price of some of them. A basic Emerald ECU is about £600 IIRC. BTW I paid £20 for four coil packs, leads, and VR sensors and yes I am running some very crappy standard HT leads - yet it still runs underwater!

Crikey Jules, lucky not to have more damage I've got a spare seat for Slindon if you can stand the noise

I know a few people with rear mounted rads running stock water pumps with no problems, I'd suck it and see. I have an electric water pump that I was gonna fit but the stock one hasn't gone wrong yet so it' still in it's box BTW don't buy the EWP controller, it's about £90 overpriced compared to the components inside it.

Likesay, if it were petrol it would be easy as you could rip it all off and fit MegaSquirt (the MS2 in fact supporting CAN bus communications), it's possible (and could be worth asking the question on the MS forum) that diesel control is not far off and you may be able to put a bit of time and money in and become a test subject. However, with this sort of modern jiggery pokery I do think "if you have to ask" - I've heard some engines the injectors (and almost everything else) have their own codes so unless you have the original ECU and injectors it won't run without the intervention of the dealer and a lot of £££ time spent on their diagnostics computer.

The usual answer is "they all do that", unless it's running out either live with it or get ready to buy a new one. I've never known anyone have worthwhile success with the seal kit.

That's an understatement - your truck is a fantastic bit of work, not least because most people would never notice anything different about it.

Brilliant! A day in the mud, come home and sit on the sofa in time for Scrapheap Challenge, Top Gear and Long Way Down. The balance of the universe is restored

On mine (and Nige's) the trigger wheel is on the back, just before the mud shield, no separation needed.

I'm on that - lodger is a bible-basher so of course I take great care to respect his religious views and not question or challenge them in any way. ... do I f**k! Hail, Satan!

I'd phone ashcrofts then and tell them you want to send them a TDi box & bellhousing and get back a V8 box & bellhousing and see what they say.

I'd investigate the price of the ECU - since it's so new it may be one of those things where there is no demand so the price is very low. Not many TDV8 owners would go to a scrapyard for an ECU, they'd go to LR and get it new. I'd also investigate just how much of an arse it will be to make the ECU run outside of a Range Rover or Disco 3 - if it has to talk to the alarm etc. then it may be almost impossible, if it's easily fooled however you may yet succeed. Hell, even a wiring diagram would be a good start.

The ability to run more than one winch, ease of install (bendy pipes instead of routing driveshafts) and I would say slightly easier control, although I'm sure very good control is achievable with mech PTO too. My setup (which I know isn't actually on the vehicle yet ) has an auxiliary port and a 110v hydro-powered generator to plug into it B) which I thought was quite a cool thing.

Ah, missed it was from a 300tdi, that could make it a PITFA as the input shafts have different diameters. You may be better off seeing if Ashcrofts will do you an R380 and take your LT77 as an exchange, or maybe just rebuild the LT77 to latest spec.

Air lock in the system then?

When Fairey made them hydro they just replaced the input shaft with a hydraulic motor with the right sort of tub shaft on the end (hell, they probably sawed the end off a PTO shaft and used that ) it's how they did the H14's.

I try to break at least one law per day, keeps me sane or maybe not

Really unless you can put a mechanical injection system on it you need to get the ECU and make it happy enough to run outside of it's normal surroundings. Unfortunately MegaSquirt can't currently control those beasties as there is more to do to make a diesel run - you need to control injection start and stop timing as well as volume and you need to do it per cylinder, it's on the horizon with the new sequencer board but that's still very much in development/testing.

Provided you get the bellhousing with it (and it's for the same engine) it should be a straight swap I believe. Check the serial number on the R380, early ones had problems with the mainshafts snapping but later on it was fixed. From Ashcrofts:

Did you *really* clean the rad of mud? Getting all the mud off the front is not the same thing as cleaning all the mud out so that you can see daylight through it (and air can flow through).

Not really, just Lucas ones

£320 for a TPS? J***s T***yF*****g C****t I'd be very surprised if you couldn't find an equivalent TPS that would fit with a little fiddling for about 1/10th of that money. They're only a potentiometer at the end of the day. Before buying stuff like that, see if you can scrounge a known working one from a friend or fellow club member to prove the problem.

A slipper plate, either DIY or not, could be a worthwhile thing.

Does it have proper springs like the sultana?

At least it won't have suffered any heavy usage - for example building a vehicle

Your starter for 10 - "Balotta" = Swaaamp That's about 1/5th of my entire Russian vocabulary, really must brush up for next year