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About Hazza

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  1. Looking forward to the next video George - I was just starting to wonder when we'd see the next one 😀
  2. I don't have any photos to hand but can grab one for you later on. Buy yes it's ultimately just a short piece between downpipe and centre pipe, with a 200tdi flange on one end (cut from the old centre section) and a TD5 flange on the other (cut from the TD5 downpipe). Noise wise - the 110 had a straight through mid pipe and a back box and has the same in TD5 form (I'd like the center silencer - but there's a water tank between the chassis rails which gets in the way of the box). I think the TD5 exhaust has a slightly throatier sound but can't comment on how it would be in standard form. It's a slightly larger bore but probably better quality silencers than a replacement 200tdi exhaust so I'd expect noise wise they're about the same.
  3. I've fitted a TD5 exhaust for precisely this reason. Downpipe remains 200tdi, then a short connection piece, then TD5 centre and back boxes. You'll have to make/modify some of the exhaust hangers but nothing too difficult.
  4. Ok - so further investigations suggest that I had a raft of issues. The main ones being one of the voltmeters reading incorrectly as mentioned above, and another issue of a rather (very) loose alternator belt! Re-tensioning the belt has given me increased charging, with 14.2-14.3 across both batteries (when checked with a multimeter on the terminals). So success there! I now need to check over all of the dash and chassis earths as I believe these may be causing a number of issues I'm experiencing, namely: incorrectly reading aftermarket voltmeter (and the standard LR battery charge indicator gauge), poor radio reception, dimly glowing interior lights with doors closed, a non-functioning oil pressure light, and a started which is reluctant to turn over. I'm going to check for voltage drops across various parts of the loom and see what I find. But ultimately I think this problem is solved... Thanks to everyone for your help!
  5. Thanks for the replies. I'll try this and see how I get on. If the battery stays charged then I'm guessing it would prove that the alternator can't deal with 2 batteries?
  6. Thanks for all of your replies so far. I've done some more digging and it seems that the voltmeter I have for the main battery is under reading by about 0.5v, having checked with a multimeter both batteries are getting approx the same voltage from the alternator, sorry! That'll teach me not to double check the guages with a proper meter! It does seem that the alternator is struggling a little though - is a 45A alternator powerful enough to charge 2 batteries? The 110 is seeing more short distance use (15-30min drives) than it has before and I'm wondering if it might be that the alternator isn't capable of topping both batteries up with such short trips?
  7. Both the isolator and the split charge show a similar voltage difference which I think rules out a fault in these. Also when the alternator is just charging the main battery (i.e. no split charge and batteries not linked through the isolator) the voltage still remains at 13.6ish volts. Surely this rules out the wiring?
  8. Hi all, I've got a strange issue on the 110, but as it's battery/electrics related it likely crosses all models. I've got 2 batteries fitted, linked by negative terminals to a chassis earth. Positive terminals are linked by either a voltage sensing split charge relay (currently disconnected to rule it out) or by a large isolator switch. The main starter battery is currently only showing about 13.6v when the engine is running, it's not charging properly as a result and the 200tdi struggles to start unless jumped off the leisure battery using the isolator switch. I suspected the issue might be the alternator but when the isolator switch linking the batteries together is closed, the leisure battery charges normally, getting up to 14.3v from the alternator while the starter hovers around the 13.6v mark. Would I be right to assume that the starter battery is due for replacement? Thanks in advance! Harry
  9. Thanks all, I'm hoping that a couple of diesel specialists will be able to help me out. Otherwise I'll be buying a new set of leak off pipes!
  10. Hi all, I've managed to snap the barbed hose fitting off the banjo fitting on one of the injectors on my 200tdi. Numpty. I know that these banjos take a 6mm bolt and the barb fits a 3.2mm or 1/8 ID pipe. But I can't find such a thing for sale anywhere and want to avoid replacing the whole spill rail if possible. Can anyone help with a source for a replacement banjo union? Cheers!
  11. Hazza

    Viscous Fan

    I also bought a replacement viscous unit (the original had seized to the water pump and had to be cut off) and found that it was locked all of the time. I've never managed to get the 200tdi hot enough to lock up the new unit. On a previous TD5 I found (accidentally) that leaving a radiator muff in place then driving along the motorway soon locked up the fan... Maybe try a covering the radiator and going for a drive? Keep an eye on temperatures obviously!
  12. How are things progressing Maverick?
  13. To prevent the galvanic corrosion: Buy some rolls of rubber approx 2mm thick, eBay will be your friend here. Use it between all chassis brackets and bodywork. I think the roll I have was about 10m long (still have loads left!) and 50mm wide which is plenty and is easily trimmed with a Stanley knife. Also get a load of 6mm and 8mm rubber washers for the same purpose.
  14. You could try pulling the transfer box off and welding the gearbox splines then grinding them back to shape. It's not a long term solution but would get you moving again for very little cost. Mine's done about 2000 miles like this.
  15. I did something similar using the vents out of a classic mini. Still have the ability to select demister or footwell vents using the original lever. The restriction is enough in the demisters that opening my new vents with footwells off gives a good flow of air!
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