oddballrovers

OMG my first LR was series 1 2l diesel gulp should not have sold it the remains of it's original engine is still in the yard, Hmm might put it on Fleabay........must be worth a fortune Ole

Hi I do not know about the price, but they are getting rare, axels do pop up from time to time, in the autumn there was a set for sale here in DK i think they where 300£ engine wise it should be possible to change as to a fourpot series thing,but if it was 6 pot wich some of them was then it is not so easy to find a good engine, given the fact that there was only about 2500 ever made it is rare. Ole

propper redneck tyrewarmer Ole

That's gona be good, that paddle shift and the autobox combined with the VNT thats included in his controller is a very good combo though a bit pricey but on the other hand it is plug and play. Ole

ofgear's solution uses bot map, egp, tps and rpm in order to control the vanes and he uses the std actuator worked by vacum, I do not know if that make s a difference Ole

Hi I have been following this tread and it got curious so I started to google and found this http://ofgear.dk/userguide/boostcontrol.html He has made gearbox controller for the Merc box's but it can also control boost, some one must have made the same for just boost using the Arduino Cheers Ole

Like two banks of 4 ?? Cheers Ole

Mornin- @ Bowie, this is the diagram I have and I do also have the dawnloads, but it is not clear to me how to wire it for a V8 any suggestions!!! is it two injector s in parallel ? @ Boydie, that sounds good I know it is takes time to get it right, especially idle and low throtle angels driving i 1 and secon with almost no load on the engine oh and the there is the warm up sycle have been there a couple off times with DTA systems on warious engines both nasp and charged. Cheers Ole

Hello. I ave been more or less given a Haltech Ecu E6X it is in working order and should be able to run a V8, but I can not find a wiring for it. Has anyone here knowledge about such a think, and also a base map, but that might be to stretch it a bit Cheers Ole

Oh dear me, Soren has gone stiff "Ignition Leads" did not expect that to happen but anyway it is one of them nice builds, loaded with your ingenuity and lateral thinking out of the box, nice one Soren Ole

Hi I do recall that Milner used to respline the input shaft on a ZF box S5-23 they used in the first ones I have got one in the sheed, give then a buzz and see what they say shipping a shaft can not be that bad Ole

Hi That is just great, decoding was the word :-) thnx, but there are not many here in DK that offers that service so I think that I we make use of the link as they do list the mems box. I do wonder why i did not find the tread about your car, but nice it is now :-) to read, I do think "The Kitten" will be pretty quick with 140BHP ish and the max6500 rpm is just great since it runs the low ratio OneTon gearbox, max speed now with the 2,5 4pot is 100km/h so the GPS tells Cheers Ole

Evnin. Here is my input, based on experience with "The Kitten" I use one off the cheap contactles kits in the distributor. Rubber glove on distributor, ties on each finger, silicone grease on plugs and a glove on coil also with ties on. On some distrubutors there are a small hole in the bottom aprox 1,5mm diameter do not forget that one. Float chamber is a pain in the bum it is the thing engine vise that has caused me most troubles as just a tiny bit can get in the float chamber that way and block the jets, I happend to find a carb with a small plastic gauze filter an OE thing that cures that problem. All gearboxes and axles are ventilated with small hoses offcourse the snorkel is also a must. Do not forget to take the startermotor apart and seal it with silicone sealant when you assembel it, otherwise you will get water into it, also use a bit off silicone on mating faces bellhousing/flywheel housing. And then a shield to avoid water is being splashed from the fan into the distributor area. Cheers Ole

Hi I have just spent some hours trying to google some knowledge about the immobiliser issue, but have not been lucky, I might use the wrong phrases, can anyone help? Cheers Ole

Hi That is great news, I do not think MS is an option as it has to be low cost, and from experience with Rover cars using the same generation ECU I have seen how clever they acctually are, and I have a DTA box on the shelf wich could be plan B or the lifeline :-) But I think it would be nice to make it simple just using the OE ECU, I do already have a bellhousing from such a disco so so that will be used for making an adaptor kind of thing to the gearbox I am going to use, and that has not been decieded upon as yet. Since I have the chance of getting everything I want from the car, my next question is what should I get? Cheers Ole

I have thought about the possiblity og running a 2.0 MPI from a Disco in a series. Question is Will the ecu run just with the engine as a stand alone Cheers Ole

Could it be so that the 30% is possible without toooo much smoke after pump adjust where as without porting the 30% would give too much smoke. I have had some experience with the old 2,25 diesels masive headwork meant that pump recalibrated to plus 15% gave 10% better economy and it pulled like a train ( if you can say that about a 2,25 ) but it was under no ircumstance possible to make it smoke so i am convinced that another 5-10% fuel would have been possible with same emission as normal, just my thoughts. Ole

I like this, I think the "mess" the letters are, reprecent the mix of minds we are in here, but all in all we are together in our LR= i like the symbolic, if you get me, being a bit philosopic here after a couple of beers. Ole

Hi We did that kind of upgrade in the 80'ies asfar as I remember we did use discs from RR's and made up a spacer to go between the two halfs of the caliper like one sees on several LR machines today. Ole

Wel done A fleece in L for me but why no T shirts ? Ole

We run one of the smallest 100 series compressors from Matt Savage, reservoir is an old fire extinguisher, aluminium of course, 1,5 L we have newer run out of air, it is used for lockers and airhorn, but not tyres, it is the cheapest setup I could work out, it is 6 years old now. Ole.

Hi Henry That sounds good, figures is not important driveablity is the most important thing I do know that from setting up MC raceengines on dynojet dynos in a former life and that is also the reason I will use either MS or something similar. You mention a careful build, did you not get it ballanced? what revs do you have the rev limiter set to? Ole

It is the total weight off the car, rules says so in certain countrys, when you are racing :-) nothing to do with the engine itself. The cars are subject to the following scale of minimum weights in relation to cylinder capacity and in accordance with FIA Article 282-3.2: Cylinder capacity in cm3 Weight in kg 4x4 4x2 up to 1400 1150 750 over 1400 and up to 1600 1150 860 over 1600 and up to 2000 1350 980 over 2000 and up to 2250 1500 1010 over 2250 and up to 2500 1600 1040 over 2500 and up to 2750 1637.5 1070 over 2750 and up to 3000 1675 1100 over 3000 and up to 3250 1712.5 1130 over 3250 and up to 3500 1750 1160 over 3500 and up to 3750 1787.5 1190 over 3750 and up to 4000 1825 1220 over 4000 and up to 4250 1862.5 1250 over 4250 and up to 4500 1900 1280 over 4500 and up to 4750 1937.5 1310 over 4750 and up to 5000 1975 1340 over 5000 and up to 5250 2012.5 1370 over 5250 2050 1400 Ole

Hi folks. Thnx for all the input, 4,0 is chosen as this give me a minimum weight off 1825kg dry, 4,6 would give 1937,5kg, the 4,0 is a faster reving engine as far as I can figure a 4,4 would also be quite well, being a square engine, but again it would mean a higher weight, what I am aiming for is a fast reving engine within the Rover range of engines. The 250bhp is not sort of a target, more like a guideline at the end off the day it is the area under the powercurve ( if you get me right) that counts the more area, the stronger an engine, the faster acceleration, all the little gains one can have each time you accelerate from one speed up to another will reduce the elapse time, top speed is not so much needed in the kind off event I am planing to take part in, that is also why I have chosen the thor engine, it also being the choice in some off the Bowlers where 265bhp is claimed, but on another budget than I am on :-) I would also like to stay below 6000 rpm as above that you move into unsafe areas where more money has to be shed out if you want to keep the reliability. The cam Elbekko links to, the ARP studs and bolts, Idris, and the compression issue Bowie mentioned is all to be invesitgated in. Keep the info and thought coming :-) Ole

Not an option, as it would mean multiplying the capasity with 1,7 and then the weight goes up..............and to me turbo or supercharging is cheating Ole