Jump to content

bleyseng

Settled In
  • Content Count

    98
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About bleyseng

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nr Chichester

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    My Wife and Son. Hunting,shooting,fishing.

Recent Profile Visitors

440 profile views
  1. Hi there, my ramp has wheels free beams that span from front to back of the ramp. These beams can be left at any height and then the main ramp can be dropped down. Is it really possible to undo all fixings that hold the body to the chassis? Without stripping everything? Thats incredible if so. Allowing for rusted bolts here and there how long would this method take do you think ?
  2. I know what you mean. I was looking at how much flaky rust was on the rear axle A-Frame yesterday. Stuff like that would need to be replaced. Also, you would need so many new nuts and bolts of the right size on site. Where the hell do you start with that! How do you know what size bolts are needed and how many? Also they seemed to wire that thing up in no time!
  3. Holy carp! Thats the way to do it. A lot of work. I counted 4 dedicated useful peeps who new what they were doing and two other helpers. Call it 5 peeps for 48 hours, thats 240 hours in total! or 5 weeks for 1 man ! My god. And they new landrovers inside out!
  4. Having had time to thoroughly assess the condition of my new defender chassis, im thinking that a new galv chassis will definetley be needed in the future. I have a full garage setup with ramp and all equipment you could ever need. What i dont have, is the experience with landrovers. Im sure that if i went ahead with this i would end up replaceing lots of parts, nuts and bolts, and the wiring loom. With this in mind how long do you think it would take to strip and refit a 110 hicap onto a new galv chassis? Working on the basis of 8 hours a day constantly. Thanks.
  5. Way hayy...!! I was reading in the tech articles section about an upgrade using a potentiometer you can buy on ebay. If the motor moves freely would this upgrade, which has a built in resistor, negate the need to strip the blower motor. Could i wire it in without dismantling it do you think? Thanks for all your help.
  6. Hi western. I have read your article. It was what made me get on and investigate the heating system. I have also studied and understood the wiring diagram. This forum is great. (It will be when you mods let me post freely anyhow! My heater flaps work fine, and all cables work as they should. The 60 amp fuse in the engine bay checks out fine as does fuse 5 (15 amp) in the cab. I have traced the green/purple 12v feed to the heaterbox, and it shows 12v with ign on where it enters the heaterbox. With ign on and the blower switch lever right down the fan does not turn on. I dont know how to
  7. Hi. 1995 300 TDI. Got the instrument panel stripped out to check the heater controls. Fixed the air distribution switch side, but not sure how to tackle the blower switch. I have checked that it has a good ground. I cant read any voltage at the switch at either of the green/white or green/yell wires. Have checked for blown fuses but there are none. Any thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy