bleyseng

Because its not a standard spring setup. The springs are +2", but until now the shocks were standard, and would bottom out. Recently one failed, so i replaced them with +2" shocks. Anyway, the consensus is that i should remove theinner spring nd fit cones. Thanks guys.

Hi there. I recently fitted the correct length +2" shocks to my Hi-Cap 110. Since then i have had my rear springs dislocate twice, whilst off road. My rear springs consist of the normal large spring, plus an extra inner smaller spring inside the big one. Im guessing the purpose of the inner spring is to provide support for heavy weights. My question is: Can i fit regular dislocation cones on the back, even if i have this inner smaller spring? Thanks in advance.

I guess thats what they did.

Well regardless of what anyone 'thinks', it seems im the only one here who has actually turned up at a test centre at which i get about 30-40 trade mot's a year, with a vehicle without doors on, and has been turned away. But it would seem that this info is not convincing enough.

Can you fail it for no wing mirrors?

I think they wouldnt test my customers vehicle, because it was missing doors that it was designed to have. To meet crash test regulations most vehicles require doors to avoid the passenger area crushing up. Also, just like defender doors, the wing mirrors are attached to the doors. No doors no wing mirrors. A mini moke was designed without opening doors, as i recall you just 'hop into it'. So there would be no issue with it, and its a different type of vehicle altogether.

An mot tester would not even test a vehicle, if it had no doors, when it was designed to have them. I know this because i have asked. I had a vehicle i was restoring for customer. The project was running over time, i had to get it mot'd but the doors were not ready to be fitted. I asked if they would mot it without doors. They said no way. I personally would take this as an indication that, its probably not legal, unless the vehicle in question has been seriously modified, strengthened, inspected and signed off by the appropriate body. A head on collision without doors on could seriously affect the ability of the cab not to fold up.

The sound is very much like an electric motor spinning, but very fast and very loud. Bonnet was open, and it sounded like it was coming from the turbo. I now realise that it is unlikely to be the turbo. Whatever was spinning, sounded like the motor of cheap hairdryer spinning at a speed faster than it was designed to. whatever it was, it sounded like it was stressed, and was about to let go.

Thanks Ralph. Andy.

My friend picked up his 90 today. Ive been working on it for the last couple of weeks. I went out on a test drive with him, but when we got back to the workshop and the engine was idling, i could also hear the turbo whirring away like crazy?! What could cause that? I have done a search but cant see any info on turbo's. I have no idea how they work, or how they switch on or off. Any pointers gratefully recieved. Thanks.

Had this problem on a 1989 2.5 TD 90. There is a lot of info to be gleaned from lots of previous posts in the forum, although a lot of the posts do not have any pics or do not explain the outcome of the troubleshooting. I had a lot of help from members on this forum but it still took me a while to work everything out. Hopefully this will make it relatively simple. Ok, in summary, the engine is running, you park and want to turn off the engine. You turn the key but the engine keeps running. Probably what has happened is one of these things: 1/ The rubber stopper on the end of the fuel stop solenoid is damaged or deteriorated and allows fuel to get past the plunger. 2/The plunger is jammed or there is a fault with the spring. 3/The plunger is impeded from dropping down and sealing the hole by some swarf in the hole. 4/The white wire attached to the cut off solenoid, has some residual voltage (often as little as 2 volts) which is holding the plunger in the up position. If you carefuly remove the solenoid and plunger (careful not to lose the spring) look at the bottom of the plunger there is a rubber tip. If this is not in perfect condition it will not seal over the hole. If you look into the hole where the solenoid screws in and you can see swarf then it is likely that you will need your injection pump rebuilt. The third case above, if you measure the voltage at the top of the cut off solenoid with the engine off and the ignition key in the off position, and find voltage around the 2 volts mark. This is enough to hold the solenoid in the open position, and the vehicle will keep running. The reason for this is because the alternator is backfeeding voltage via the charge light wire on your dashboard instrument panel. Possibly because of a lazy diode in your alternator. This is what was happening in my case anyway, and i have read about others with the same symptoms. 200TDI and on models have an external diode sited in the loom, in the location of underneath right hand vent handle, but underneath the dash tray insert. To access it, you must remove the top piece of the dash, the left hand end grab handle, the sloping grey vertical trim, and then you can pull out the dash tray. The loom is underneath it in the corner. The picture below shows the diode incased in heatshrink. This is on my 1995 300TDi 110: You can see how the diode sits in the circuit in this diagram: Note that the white wire coming in from the bottom of the page heading right, is from the ignition live. The brown with yellow wire at the bottom of the page, that heads off the page to the right, goes to the alternator. The diode is there to stop a backfeed to the fuel cut off solenoid. As far as im aware this is only present on 200TDi models and on. My 2.5TD did not have this diode arrangement, so i added it, exactly like in the wiring diagram. This fixed the problem of my fuel cut off solenoid staying energised, and not being able to turn off the engine. I purchased the diode from Maplins for about £0.40p.http://www.maplin.co.uk/1n4148-switching-diode-46386 There is also a resistor, shown in the wiring diagram above. This is located behind the speedo cluster. It can take some rummaging to find it. i would advise removal of the steering wheel, disconnect the speedo cable, and then pull away the instrument panel and put it to one side. The picture below shows what you are looking for on a 2.5TD. Its the opaque fuse holder in the centre of the pic. Inside is a resistor: This can be replaced in the same way as the diode if need be, just by soldering it to the wires and then heatshrink over it. You can buy the resistor at Maplins again: http://www.maplin.co.uk/metal-film-2w-resistor-5729 I replaced mine as i already had everything out. The original resistors are no longer available as far as i know. The purpose of this resistor as far as i can tell, is to provide a voltage drop for the charge wrning bulb. Hope this helps.

I dont think it is.

Hallelujah!!! Sorted it. Went to Maplins today. Bought Resistors and diodes. Found the resistor first, in the fuse holder just like you said Western. It seems i hadnt stripped enough stuff out of the way to see it. I replaced the resistor but it made no difference. I was gutted, but then i had my last chance saloon fix which was to insert a diode in the run between the resistor and the alternator, (Brown with yellow tracer). This is how my 300TDI is wired. It only bloody well worked! The only slight difference i have noticed, is that the battery charge light is just a shade dimmer. Maybe this is to do with the type of diode i used. I took some pics along the way so i will do a write up, and perhaps if its clear enough it may end up in the Tech Archive. A big thankyou to all who chipped in with info. I seriously wouldnt of managed it without your help. Here's to LR 4x4 which is a really great resource!

You are a star, thankyou Nick.

This resistor. Is there anything special about it. I have been Googling the part numbers that Western quoted for the originals but i cant find any info on them and nobody stocks them. If i had some information on the resistors rating then i could probably find an equivalent somewhere. Alternatively, i could fit a diode like that other chap did, but again i'd need some advice on what rating/type it would need to be. If anyone could advise i'd be very grateful. Thanks.

Yep got it! Just Googled it.

IIRC? what does this mean? Thanks Western.

This is exactly the fault i am having, even down to the volts at the solenoid. But my problem is that i have the instrument panel out and the steering wheel out of the way and i just cannot see for love nor money a black fuse holder that would contain a resistor or diode. I just have a white (with black tracer) wire coming from the ignition switch, which then heads into a clump of white wires and from there goes god knows where? I have a few questions, if anyone can shed some light i'd be very grateful, and ill use the info to write up a 'how to' with pics. 1/ Is this resistor/fuse holder, along the length of the white with black tracer wire ? 2/ If yes to the above, can anybody pinpoint its usual location? 3/ If no to question 1, which colour wire is the resistor attached to? 4/ If by a strange occurance my 1989 90, does not have one of these in line resistors, can i just buy one and fit one? Thanks in advance.

I am determined to find the cause of this fault. I have read so many posts about other owners who have this problem and yet none of the posts end in an explanation of the cause of the fault or how it was fixed. If i ever find the fault im going to document how it was corrected.

If i did have a short in the ignition switch then my rocker switch in front of the ignition switch would negate that, which is partly why i installed it. Also this fault occured in the old switch and housing. I changed the switch and housing day before last and this problem still exists. It surely cant be two faulty ignition switches?

Tried a different version of my work around. I disconnected the white and black wire from the ignition switch. I ran a new wire from the ignition switch (terminal that the White and black wire lives) to the rocker switch. Then i ran a new wire directly to the solenoid. Trouble is the battery light and oil light would not come on with ignition on. Engine would start, but the alternator was not charging. So i cant get around this poxy white and black wire!!

Ok im really getting to my wits end here, ive been 2 days on this and im getting nowhere. I even just tried a work around but it hasnt helped at all. I unplugged the white with black tracer wire from the ignition switch, ran it to + on a rocker switch. Then ran a short black wire from the terminal marked A on the rocker switch back to the terminal on the ignition switch. There is an earth terminal on the rocker switch as well, so i ran that one to ground. With the new rocker switch in the on position i turned the ignition key. The lights came on on the instrument panel as usual and also the little red dot on the new rocker switch glowed brightly, fine. Turned the key further and cranked the engine and it started. The battery charge light was illuminated as it normally is on initial tickover. I flicked the rocker switch to cut power to the fuel cut off solenoid and the engine cut out and the oil light came on like it should. Good i thought. Next, i repeated the process, but this time at idle, i revved the engine to put out the charge light. I flicked the rocker switch and guess what? It stayed running!!!!! I had to pull the wire off the solenoid to stop it. One thing i noticed after i switched the rocker to off the second time, unsuccessfully, is that the little illuminated red dot on the rocker switch was dimly illuminated. Which is not right. Another thing you should know is that this morning, i removed the alternator and took it to a local test center to have it checked out. The guy tested it before my eyes and told me it had no back feed issues at all. He changed the pack which holds the brushes and cleaned up the slip ring and some terminals, but ultimately it has made no difference to the actual problem i have. In summary the problem is that if the battery charge light is off, i cannot turn off the engine, neither by the ignition key nor by an additional rocker switch in the system. What the hell is going on?!!

Also, the white wire with black tracer on the ignition switch, that supplies 12v to the solenoid, as soon as the ignition key is turned to the first position. It runs into a clump of white wires that head toward the centre of the dash and dissappears. The wire at the stop solenoid on my vehicle is pure white with no black tracer. 2 questions: 1/ Is there a break somewhere along this wire, in the form of connector, fuse, or connection at some other part that would explain this change in wire colour? 2/ If the answer to the above is yes there should be a break in the form of a connection, then where is it, and what is it? Im sorry for all of my questions. I just cant find a credible wiring diagram that i can read, which is colour coded etc. Seen loads of carp ones but no decent ones.

Ive been researching this problem searching through past posts. There is talk of a resistor somewhere behind the speedo cluster housed in a fuse holder, which is there to stop backfeeding voltage from the alternator, somehow to the fuel shut off solenoid circuit. I have loooked and looked and looked again, but cannot see anything like it on this 90 (1989 2.5 TD). Did it really exist from the factory? Or is it an add on that some owners have fitted?

Everything was working fine until i removed the old solenoid due to a fuel leak. After that moment, the not turning off fault occurred, and then further investigations showed small voltage (2v) at the white wire on the solenoid with the engine running and key off. I then, changed the ignition barrel and switch because of a seperate fault, to do with glow plug position being worn on the old switch. The new ignition switch rectified the glow plug problem but the solenoid fault was just the same with the new switch, which makes me think this fault is not to do with the switch.