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bleyseng

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Everything posted by bleyseng

  1. Thankyou Snagger and LandymanLuke. I cant say i understand your theory, but thats because your explanation is beyond my comprehension of auto electrics. What i can say, is that tomorrow i will try to disconnect the thin wire from the alternator and then try starting the engine, revving it, and then try turning it off on the key. When you say thin wire at the Alternator, are you refering to the Brown with yellow tracer? I remember seeing that one whilst, staring at the alternator with bemusement.
  2. So after further investigation, if i start the engine but do not touch the acc pedal (the battery light is on) i can turn off the engine with the key every time. Under this circumstance terminal 3 on the ignition switch (white wire with black tracer) reads 0 volts. If i rev the engine so that the battery light goes off, then after this i canot turn off the engine with the key. At this point terminal 3 on the ignition switch (white wire with black tracer) reads around 8 volts. I dont6 understand why.
  3. Thankyou Blue Spanner, thats very helpfull. Gives me something to look into tomorrow. Resistor behind speedo cluster, in a fuse holder, potentially faulty. Alternatively a fault with the Alternator, backfeeding a small voltage to the solenoid. Thanks again. Love this forum.
  4. Cut bits out, weld bits in, patch it underseal, it by all means spend a week of time doing it, but understand that it will delay the inevitable by maybe only a year or two or three. If there are areas you can see in that condition, there are bound to be areas you cant see which are just as bad. I re-chassied my 110 in 2012 and was shocked at what i found after i lifted the body off. I didnt plan on a complete service and overhaul of everything but thats what happened. I probably spent 4k on parts including the 110 hi-cap chassis, gearbox, transfer box, all new bushes, bolts, brakes and pipes, swivels, bearings, rear loom, fuel tank, bumper and odds and sods. I would imagine it would take an awful lot of self control to do a re-chassis without servicing or replacing anything at all, nuts, bolts bushes etc so it does ending up costing. But the upside is that once its done, you feel like this Landrover you are driving is going to be with you until the day you die. I now feel that every improvement i make to it is worthwhile, because its all sat on a solid base. My advice is to do what you you need to do in the short term, but start saving for a galvy chassis. If you re-chassis you will learn so much about your vehicle too. Good luck.
  5. Oh balls, its not a common fault that eeveryone knows how to fix then.
  6. Doing some work on my mates 2.5 TD 90. Noticed that the fuel shut off solenoid was leaking diesel, took it out, changed the o-ring put it back. Vehicle started, solenoid still leaking, but i see its leaking from the top. turn ignition key to off, engine keeps running. So i pull off the wire on the solenoid, engine dies. I restart the engine then turn the key to off. Same thing happens. so i pull off the wire again and it stops again. I ordered a new solenoid and fitted it, it made no difference, engine still runs on. I did ground the terminal on the solenoid and there was a spark. After this the engine would turn off on the key twice but then after this went back to not turning off again. Any ideas? Thanks.
  7. Actually, forget my suggestion, i failed to notice the part in your heading which says ignition key off! Its not likely to be that earth fault.
  8. Ah ok, thankyou. But i didnt work for you though, so im not confident i will be able to solve it in this way. Ill try it anyway.
  9. Check the black earth wire that attaches to the gearbox with a ring terminal.
  10. I was going to post tonight, until i read this. What a coincedence. My clutch pedal gives a loud creak/squeal when depressed. I was going to ask for a cure. Incidentally, my clutch fork and clutch are both brand new. The creak has always been there even before the new clutch and fork. I think its something where the clutch pedal pivots, but dont know how accessable the mechanism is.
  11. Hi guys, ive searched hi and low for info on this but cant find anything. A friends 90 needs a door spraying. Im trying to identify the right shade of green for that year. I believe its a 1989, 2.5 TD. There is no info displayed on the vin number plate on the brake servo. Anywhere else i should be looking? Thanks.
  12. Ahhhhhh! I see. Western, many thanks. I thought there was a fault because it didnt come on automatically. It was on the list 'to fix'. Thanks guys.
  13. Hi Guys. I have searched but cannot find the answer. I was looking for the glow plug relay on a friends 2.5TD today but i couldnt spot it. I was looking on the engine side of the bulkhead, around the heater area. Couldnt see it. I know where it is on a 300TDI. Obviously i will trace it from glowplug 4 if i dont get an answer, but i was hoping someone would know where it is on this model, and save me some time. Thanks in advance.
  14. Thhaps. Where is the engine number usually located on the block Thhaps. Where is the engine number usually located on the block righthand side of fuel pump
  15. How can i tell the difference between all of the diesel engines? 2.5TD 200TDI 300TDI I need to identify a friends defender 90 engine, so i can order some parts for him. I know for sure its not 300 TDI, but i dont know if its just a standard diesel, TD, or TDI. Can you shed some light please? Thankyou
  16. Looked on Paddocks website but could not see one. Any ideas? Thanks.
  17. Almost certainly heat caused by arcing between the fuse blade and the female terminals in the fuse holder. Bad contact causing greater resistance and therefore heat. You need to clean or change the female terminals in the fuse holder. Could try spraying this: http://www.maplin.co.uk/contact-cleaner-4153. Probably worth disconnection battery + first and dont reconnect until it has evaporated. To prevent it occuring again use this: http://www.maplin.co.uk/contralube-770-connector-lubricant-346030 Hope it helps.
  18. Its not wired in that way. The earth wire is permanent common earth, the other two wires are 12v live from the brake light switch, and the lightswitch. What happens if you put a standard bulb back in? If it still happens, then it sounds like there is some kind of short in the earth for that circuit. To rule this out, disconnect earth wire from bulb holder,(you may have to cut it) and temporarily connect a wire from ground to the bulb holder, if it makes no difference, its not an earth fault, but rather a 12v supply fault, which i would be surprised at because stop and tail are 2 individual circuits and its highly unlikely they have both failed.
  19. They are using heavy cable because, in the event of a flat primary battery, the secondary battery will be wired sufficiently to be able to handle the current, required to crank the engine over. If a 100amp VSR was between the primary and secondary battery, then it would be so much better. It would remove the possibility of human error, ie forgetting to isolate the batteries manually.
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