bleyseng

Holy carp! Thats the way to do it. A lot of work. I counted 4 dedicated useful peeps who new what they were doing and two other helpers. Call it 5 peeps for 48 hours, thats 240 hours in total! or 5 weeks for 1 man ! My god. And they new landrovers inside out!

I need to replace my gearbox in my defender hi cap 300 tdi. Ive been offered an R380 gearbox and transfer box from a crashed disco. 1/ Is it compatable with my 300 tdi 1995? 2/ Is it the correct gear ratio ? Thanks By the way its a 1997 with 117,000 kilometers on the clock.

Having had time to thoroughly assess the condition of my new defender chassis, im thinking that a new galv chassis will definetley be needed in the future. I have a full garage setup with ramp and all equipment you could ever need. What i dont have, is the experience with landrovers. Im sure that if i went ahead with this i would end up replaceing lots of parts, nuts and bolts, and the wiring loom. With this in mind how long do you think it would take to strip and refit a 110 hicap onto a new galv chassis? Working on the basis of 8 hours a day constantly. Thanks.

Retroconda, thankyou for your help. The threads of the sheared off sender were white. Any relevance?

I bought the sender on ebay. the seller claims its for a defender 87-06. The pic shows that its green on the threads. Mine was just all brass.

AMR 1425 My Landy, 1995 300tdi high cap.

Hi guys. 300 tdi defender. New to me. When i bought it temp sender was snapped in the head, so no gauge. Removed sheared sender today and replaced it with a new one. Let the engine run for 15 mins and watched the temp gauge climb all the way to the red ! My god ive been driving it for 2 weeks without a gauge!! I felt this was a bit odd, as the engine didnt smell hot and it just didnt feel hot to me. When the gauge was just in the red just to check, i slowly removed the screwcap from the black coolant fill bottle on the left side of the engine bay, there was only a slight hiss but no heat. The coolant inside was totally cold. The thermostat housing was hot though but not mega hot. Too hot to hold my hand on for more than 2 seconds though. Tomorrow i plan to remove the thermostat and check it probably change it. 1/ Is there anything else i should check? 2/ If it still overheats after changing the thermostat, where do i start, whats the next thing? Thanks in advance.

Hi . Would the heayer blower motor and fan from a 300 tdi Discovery fit into my 300 tdi defender? Thanks.

Hi. If i park on a gentle slope, pull the handbrake on, my defender rolls forward a couple of inches, and rocks a bit. Is this normal, or is there play somewhere there shouldnt be? Thanks.

So i removed the intake grille for the heater. The fan does not budge. I guess ill be needing a new fan blower motor. Anyone have one?

My vw campers horn push, connects the earth circuit thus completeing the circuit. The horn is supplied constantly with 12v. I dont know if Landrovers are the same but it would explain why there is no 12v at the switch.

I would put good money on it that the fan motor has burned out or seized. Just like mine! Try undowing the screws that hold the intake grille down ontop of the n/s wing. When the grille is removed put your hand inside the wing and try and move the fan. If it moves freely then its likely the motor/fan is ok and the burning smell and lack of fan spinning is due to another electrical fault. Western told me this only yesterday!

I bought my hi-cap for my business. I wanted to use it for towing vw campers to the paintshop, recovering broken down vehicles etc. However, i never noticed how high the towing bracket actually is before i bought it. I have a pick up i have been using for towing up till now. The height to the top of the towball is 420mm. On the high-cap the height to the top of the towball is 650mm ! How am i supposed to tow anything with that? What is the solution? Thanks.

Thanks guys.

I just bought 1995 Defender 300TDI. I knew it had a gearbox fault when i bought it. Basically it pops out of gear in 4th and is a little tricky to get into 4th. You cant change down from 5th to 4th. Also, there is a noise that i can only describe to be like the sound of the steam coming from the chimney of a steam train traveling fast. Its feint but its there. I also keep getting the odd whiff of EP90. Apart from that the other gearswork fine. The only other thing i would say im not sure about, is when changing up to the next gear, when releasing the clutch when it bites there is a dull clonk and it grabs quite hard. Its a struggle to get a perfectly smooth transition. Ive read up on the transmission overhaul proceedure and its a fairly big job. I dont want to be doing it twice in quick succession, so i think a new box would be better than trying to fix it. Unless someone who knows tells me otherwise of course. Interestingly, and i think youl find this ammusing. A mechanic friend in the workshop next to mine, kindly looked up the book time for removing and replacing the gearbox. Aparently it can be done in 4hrs!! I think more like 14hrs. Questions: 1/Assuming i do need a new transmission, which brand of recon by who? (i only have £600 max) 2/Is the grabbing and dull clonk the norm for a Landrover defender ? (i cant believe it would be)

Way hayy...!! I was reading in the tech articles section about an upgrade using a potentiometer you can buy on ebay. If the motor moves freely would this upgrade, which has a built in resistor, negate the need to strip the blower motor. Could i wire it in without dismantling it do you think? Thanks for all your help.

Hi western. I have read your article. It was what made me get on and investigate the heating system. I have also studied and understood the wiring diagram. This forum is great. (It will be when you mods let me post freely anyhow! My heater flaps work fine, and all cables work as they should. The 60 amp fuse in the engine bay checks out fine as does fuse 5 (15 amp) in the cab. I have traced the green/purple 12v feed to the heaterbox, and it shows 12v with ign on where it enters the heaterbox. With ign on and the blower switch lever right down the fan does not turn on. I dont know how to test the blower switch. Basically, im only getting hot air when im moving at speed. Nothing at stationary. 1/Should i be able to hear the fan come on? 2/If it doesnt come on do i now assume that the blower fan is shagged? 3/Is it a bit of a mission to remove and service the blower fan?

Hi. 1995 300 TDI. Got the instrument panel stripped out to check the heater controls. Fixed the air distribution switch side, but not sure how to tackle the blower switch. I have checked that it has a good ground. I cant read any voltage at the switch at either of the green/white or green/yell wires. Have checked for blown fuses but there are none. Any thoughts?

Excellent. Was starting to worry why someone would remove the loom to those sensors. Where is the best mail order engine parts place on the net? Thanks Western.

Hi people. New to me 95 300 TDI Defender. Temp gauge not working. Lifted bonnet to check wiring to senders and discovered that there are no wires or connectors in the engine bay whatsoever that go to the two temp senders on the thermostat housing. Also, there is a third temp sensor that plugs into the end of the cylinder head. This sensor seems to have sheared off and half is in the head and the other half is in the sensor plug. I got an easyout on the snapped off head part and got it to loosen, but when coolant started to escape i wound it back in again. I now am driving around with an easyout screwed into this snapped off sensor in the sensor hole! Went to Harwoods Landrover and Camberly auto in Chichester, both did not stock this exact part. They had different versions of the same thing. One version had a fuel injector type 2 pin connection on it, another version had 1 spade terminal on it. I would have taken the single spade version but they didnt stock it either! I have viewed the wiring diagram for the 300 TDI on this forum. It shows a Green and Blue wire going to the coolant temp sensor. I think im right in saying that that wire goes to my sheared sensor. Correct? First question: What is the purpose of this sensor? Second question: What is the purpose of the other 2 sensors/switches on the thermostat housing?

Western, understood , ill try it tomorrow, thanks. Old hand, the heater worked on the 3 hr drive home after purchase but it only just kept the cab marginally warm. Also, the best heat came on the passenger side windscreen, the drivers side was nearly nothing. Also better air flow when the fan speed lever was pushed half way down from the top. Is there a heater improvement manual on this forum? Thanks

Western, understood , ill try it tomorrow, thanks. Old hand, the heater worked on the 3 hr drive home after purchase but it only just kept the cab marginally warm. Also, the best heat came on the passenger side windscreen, the drivers side was nearly nothing. Also better air flow when the fan speed lever was pushed half way down from the top. Is there a heater improvement manual on this forum? Thanks

Hi. Just bought a 1995 2.5 tdi high cap 110. I Drove it home last night. Temp gauge doesnt work. It doesnt move from the cold position. Obviously its very important to have this operational. where do i start? Secondly. I need to buy at least one manual. But which one is the best one? There are so many. I dont really like Haynes manuals as a rule. They seem to tell lies. Usefull help would be much appreciated. Thanks