tractor_morgan

]Hi, Thanks for the pictures. I'm not certain if the tacky mastic is a secondary repair, as this is the original stuff they use to fit the plastic sheet with. It isn't clear from the picture whether a welded repair has been carried out. IMHO the door trim panel has probably shed it's clips etc. because the bolt has come loose and this means that the interior trim was taking the shock of itself plus the loose door panel when being shut. I'm tempting to put a rivet nut into the door frame and a nice headed bolt/screw to hold the interior panel back to the frame in that corner, where it all seems to go wrong. Anyway, thanks again. Best Regards

Thank you for that, all power to my debate with the Land Rover dealer. It sounds like yours is the same. Best Regards

Thanks for that, it was my feeling.

Thanks very much for this, our vehicle is the farm four wheel drive and so it isn't parked up all day long either. If the welded repair is good I'd probably prefer that option than a new door, spraying, time away etc. Thanks again.

Hi Everybody, I have a 53'reg'd Defender Crew Cab, which has developed a fault with the drivers door - trying to unlock with the key. I discovered this was due to the door interior panel coming away from the door frame, and the interior door lock mechanism being out of alignment with the door lock, i.e. if you push the interior door panel up to the door frame, the door locks/unlocks perfectly on the key. However, on closer inspection I have discovered that the reason for the interior door panel coming away from the frame, is due to the door frame itself having what appears to be a fatigue crack/tear (breakage) in the top rail, just to the left of where the plastic frame for the door lock knob is screwed to the door (where is changes into a flat'ish rail. Our local land rover dealer suggests that this is not common, but our Defender has only done 60K in four years and is not abused etc. I can't believe it. Has anybody else had a similar experience with Defender drivers doors? I can take a picture if anybody wants to see it. Many Thanks - Peter (tractor_morgan)

Hi, Got both a Disco and 110, and owned 90's until the family got too big..... hauling livestock around and the family boat with significantly more weight. Can't see there is much choice, if you want to put the trailer anywhere it has to be the 90, stability on the road shouldn't be an issue. The only thing the disco has going for it (slightly) is the comfort factor. Rgds - Peter

Dave, Yes, I confirm that it is going into gear, but is being forced out under any load. I would not say the problem relates to the actual initial engagement of the gear, this seems to be fine. It looks to be like the gearbox had got to come out. In your experience, is it worth repairing this reverse issue, given the mileage (200K) the rest of the gearbox has done, or is it better sense to replace the whole gearbox with a lower mileage used, or re-conditioned box? She is only a rough farm runaround, so any expense saved...... Many Thanks for both replies. I'm getting quite good at planning all turning around with a slope in mind, even if it means an extra few 100yds at times. Thanks again - Peter

Unfortunately, the reverse switch was not the problem, is anybody else able to offer some advice? Many thanks

Fluke - absolutely bulletproof. Wouldn't trust any other meter.

Thank you Jon, I will try that. Many Thanks - Peter

Hi, Yes, sorry it is a B'reg - got my years mixed up. Thank you for clarifying the gearbox type. Regards - Peter

Hi, Recently purchased a 1982 Land Rover 90 for another cheap farm runabout. However, the reverse gear jumps (or should I say forces) itself out all the time. If you really feather the clutch it will creep back, but if you drop the clutch completely it will come out and you can't hold it. Is it worth repairing the gearbox as the other gears work great or should I just go for a replacement @ £250 upwards. I assumed it was an LT77, but maybe at this age it isn't? Regards