rmtucker

Yes there is the free version for just the EAS. Unusually i have got no problems with the EAS (Honest) It is the rest of the stuff i wanted to use Body control,Hevac etc.

Well having asked if anyone has any diagnostic kit for a p38 in the county durham area and had no response. It seems i will have to bite the bullet and buy the kit. I know the nanocom evo is a nice bit of kit but a little pricey for use on your own vehicle. So that leaves me with the cheaper EAS Unlock V4.0 from rswsolutions.com It seems as though it has the same functions etc as the nanocom unit but is anybody using it to give a little feedback and thoughts on the software etc ?.

Just bought my first P38 4.0HSE (2001) and looking for somebody in county durham with the kit to access the becm etc? Got a fault on the Hevac ,my guess blend motors. Also the trip computer not working but it is fitted. Maybe someone that will do it for beer tokens. Been looking at the EAS Unlock V4 software but £150 to read some codes a bit steep so soon after buying the car.

Yes it has the short section at the end of the torsion bar. So i need 2 Rh threads for that and a Rh thread for the end of the drag link?

Totally confused by adverts now ??? I want to replace the track rod ends and the drag link end on my 91 Disco 2.5TDI. But some of the adverts say 2 Rh threads and 1 Lh thread. And others say 3 Rh threads ???? Is there anyway of checking without stripping the old ones off,(It is my daily Ride) The vin No is on a HA

Well I stripped the input gear out today. Found the outer bearing in pieces,All lying in the bottom of the transfer box.(Part of the cage and 7 rollers). We managed to extract the outer shell of the inner bearing with the tranfer box in place.(Made an extractor). 2 new bearings and Bob's yer uncle,Job done. Like a rolls royce now and it cost all of £20.

Went out for a spin on Boxing day only to get some strange noises from the gearbox. It has had a bad whine since i bought it last year.The whine has always been noisier as you went through the gears,5th being the worst. So I cleaned the slush off the drive and pulled the landy on. Started it up,Put transfer box in neutral,and put main gearbox into 5th and let it tick over. All kinds of noises underneath,and it mainly sounded as though it were coming from the main gearbox. So i got a screwdriver and ear on it,it was noisy all over but when you listened to the input gear it seemed pronounced and knocking?. What are the chances that the bearings have gone on the input gear.? Maybe just wishfull thinking though. It is a bit of a pig to get up to as well,you can get in ok but i am not sure about withdrawing that outer shell from the front bearing with the transfer box in situ. has anyone ever managed to do it?,By manufacturing a special extractor. I suppose the next step is to remove the cover,but i don't suppose i will see much,without taking the gear out.

Ok i bought a 1991 Discovery about 12 months ago. Ever since i bought it,there has been a terrible whining from the gearbox. The whining seemed to get worse in 3rd,4th,5th. It has never been a problem till today. I took the wife and daughter out for a bit fresh air today in weardale,whilst out the gearbox started to make a scraping noise while travelling slowly,just like grit in a disc brake if you know what i mean?. Anyway for the next 5mins there was all kinds of grinding and scraping. I switched the transfer box into neutral and the noise stops. But if i re-engage the tranfer box and the normal box it all comes back After that it has now settled down to a nasty whining and scraping,but managed to drive the 10miles back too crook without and major mishaps. My question is this, Should i just try and find a replacement box and transfer box? Or is it something i can repair? maybe an easy to reach bearing. Oh and a merry christmas too all. (Bah Hum Bug). Forgot to mention 200TDI

A couple of weeks back i thought the steering box was knackered,the steering was stiff and felt like carp. Anyway i called in to see gordon at diamond bank garage in butterknowle,co durham. Without even looking at it he said check the lower steering uj's because the steering boxes are bullet proof. I changed the whole lower shaft and uj,s and OMG it drives like a BMW. My only other fault was a terrible noisy and what i thought clunky,thudding gearbox. I thought it was the output shaft and input gear. Anyway i replaced all the rear bushes with poly bushes and replaced the rear 'A' Frame ball joint today,DEAD EASY when you have access to a 50 ton press. I had checked the ball joint with a massive pry bar and felt no play at all. But when removed it had about 3mm play. And guess what all clunks and bangs have gone and gear changes feel different again,shame about the whining in 4th and 5th. I think the lesson i have learned is always look at the easy things first.

The steering column growls on my discovery 1 just every now and again. How do i lubricate it?. I have just changed the lower shaft and uj's and god what a difference. It drives like a slot racing car now I thought it was the steering box but i spoke to gordon richardson at butterknowle and he pointed me to the lower shaft,What a nice helpful guy.

Now i am confused I did not think that pre-93 had fusible links? Regards Mark

Has anyone got a diagram/description of the fuses/Relays fastened to the drivers inner wing on a 1991 discovery 200TDI? Just i have been replacing the inner wing and i just wanted to check i had not disturbed anything. Haynes manual does not seem to cover it? Regards Mark

My steering box looks as though it is leaking from the top plate mating face (the one with the adjuster screw and locknut), It's running down the side. Is this something i can fix? Regards Mark

Just some pics of the nearside Inner wing repair. Ready to start the offside.

Well been busy everyday workin on it. So far i have done the boot floor and rear crossmember. Nearside outer sill and both rear arches.(Seatbelt mounting points) Nearside front arch completly rebuilt in places. I have the offside front arch to patch and check the offside sill. So far i have spent 4 weeks on it solid except for 2 rainy days.

On mine the cross braces were welded to the bottom of the side rails ('z' sections). Wished i had took a photo now.

A little more progress. Boot all pop riveted (all 140 of them) All the welding done.

Well just about got the boot sorted. I will remove the back bumper next to patch the rear crossmember.

The new boot floor was delivered today,just got to make some new framework for it to drop in to. Also made the patches for the rear arch seat belt anchors. Will post some pics tommorow. Just the drivers side outer sill and we are nearly done. Regards Mark

Oh My God I think my bottle is going

Bloody hell are you phsycic ?

Ok Found some more to do (we have a new arrival OMG what have i let myself in for

Well i took the plunge about a week ago and bought my first run down Discovery. So far I have done the following all with help from this forum: Water Pump replaced Thermostat V Belts Dashboard totally removed and heater repaired. Flasher relay replaced. Outer sill replacement (Ongoing). I bought the sills from Yrm metal solutions yesterday morning,i then got a phone call about 1pm to say do you want to pick them up? It turned out they are only down the road Anyway they were big enough to cut down the lengnth so i could use part of it for the inner sills aswell (nice neat job). Some pics Regards Mark

Rust,Rust,Rust,Rust !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I want to stick both sunroofs down and at least try and make them leakproof. I have purchased a tube of sikaflex 221 marine sealant as people on this forum advised. Do i fill the channel on the outside between the glass and the rubber? Do i run a bead around the inside of the cab? I would also run a bead on the mating seal between glass and rubber but it would be hard at the front without removing the sunroof,this worries me in case i break anything trying to loosen bolts etc.