tpk241

Hi All, Thought i would post some pics and ask a few questions on this ... hope someone can help .. I recently started poking about underneath (bad idea) and found the rear body cross member has a couple of holes in it and the rear P-Side body mount is rusted and detached from the body shell .. I have an MOT due next week and need to know if its likely to go through / is it safe ... or should i get it welded up .. ? I dont think the rear body member/sill is rotten all over and could probably be patch .. see photos and let me know your thoughts Many thanks in advance TPK

hehehe .. when i did mine to adjust the steering wheel a couple of splines i had to remove it a couple of time to adjust .. buy the end i put it back on without disconnecting the battery ... I was laughing but as said the neighbours weren't happy

Thanks for all your help on this (everyone) Got a local mech to come and have a look .. turns out i had it right all along ... No1 cylinder wasn't firing cos of excess diesel .. maybe cos my pumps turned up ? run it through for a while and smoked the whole town out .. all running fine now it cleared through .. starts first turn of the key again .. Gonna recheck push rods and valve clearances at the weekend for peace of mind .. Thanks TPK

Cool, Thanks for that Jim .... I will give that a go i reckon... Couple of people have advised a compression test to see if this is down. I am still convinced its just the timing .. Are the Valves likely to be damaged from a slipped belt / tensioner collapse ? Thanks TPK

Thanks all ... I have done that much research on belt changing and timing that I was confident I had done it right ... So it does suggest that something else may be the culprit ! Next port of call is to accurately recheck the puch rods and reset valve clearances ... Thanks a million TPK

The belt didn't snap but it did slip ..... The Tensioner wheel bearing broke up thankfully whilst the engine was only idling. I have checked the Push-rods and rockers which were all ok .. These are the first thing to take the damage if i am correct ? It was running fine before the bearing broke up ... can the pump be damaged by this ? Thanks TPK

Hi Steveb, Yes this is why I am confused as I have done all this 10 times !@£@$£@ TPK

Hi All, 300TDI defender engine in a disco - later model before EDC - AFAIK After successfully replacing tensioner, idler and crank with the timking belt kit i proceeded to fit the new belt .. Following numerous guides and manuals to set up the timing i got it on and felt it was aligned properly .. First off it fired but was Lumpy as hell and smoking like a chimney .. so i assumed the fuel injection timing was out a tooth. Took the belt off and redid the whole proceedure to get the same results ! I am now soooo frustrated after trying to get the timing right over 9 times I need some help from the experienced among us ! To summarise :- I loosened the 3 pump sprocket bolts Align cam locked pump locked flywheel all this seems to line up ok .. if anything the pump pin is tight once the belt is on but i thought this was just the pumps tendency to want to turn ... Also i locked for the pump locking pin (the one with the keeper plate which is behind the timing belt housing) and I dont seem to have one, could this be a problem ? maybe the injection timing needs resetting but i need the locking pin and keeper plate for this no ? Also to add to the confusion when i did have started (timing was wrong though) it didnt want to shut off and i had to stall it to do so .. does this suggest a dodgy stop solenoid and can this contribute to the lumpy-ness or reluctance to start up ? A lot of questions there i know .. someone please dive in a help !

Thanks all .. In the end i used an easy-out stud extractor .. which snapped !!! But it gave me some purchase to use screwdriver and hammer to tap it round .... six sided sockets only on the new bolt i feel !

Hi All, As many others have probably had this problem please help !!! On doing a cambelt change I need to loosen the injector sprocket (3 10mm bolts) one of which is rounded ... Can anyone post a link or enlighten me to this technique ? Many thanks TPK

BM, No problem as soon as I have got the expense of repairing the damage I will make a donation. Another question .. Do you know how I can identify the age of the engine as I dont know the VIN of the vehicle it came from and need to order some service items and oil seals that have early/late versions ? Thanks TPK

Thanks BM, Your previous tech posts on this help me no end ... Excellent Forum... TPK

Excellent BogM, top man. Hoping you would pick this one up .. Yes the timing jumped and it stopped, i did start it again for someone to listen to who as trying to help me diagnose. Is this likely to have screwed things up any more ? Didnt run it for long though ! Do you know what kit these are from the 'Big Kit' ot 'Little Kit' ? Many thanks TPK

Hi All, As you can see in the pics below my tensioner bearing broke down ! Luckily it was only running idle when this happened in my workshop. Its a 300TDI Defender engine .. in a discovery 96' commercial A couple of things i need help with: 1. The engine is not original and i dont know the vehicle it came from. Has this timing gear had one of the upgrade kits fitted ? 2. Should I be looking elsewhere for problems that could have been caused by this ? Pushrods, valves etc ? Many thanks in advance TPK

B)--> QUOTE(steve b @ Apr 28 2007, 06:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hi is it 300TDi defender eng in a disco ? Steveb Thanks Steveb, yeh its a defender 300tdi in a disco I'll take the rocker cover off again and check i thinks. TPK

Hi All, Hope someone can help me diagnose the problem i have. Coming back from sodbury couple of weeks ago near to home the discovery started making a faint knocking / grinding noise. I took it easy to get home and parked up. After coming back from holiday and working on disco today I started it to turn the wheels full lock and engine stalled. Symptoms now are: Eventually started whilst giving it gas, knocking noise evident, lots of smoke and wont idle needs gas to run. So I switched it off straight away. BTW the engine is a defender with about 100,000 on it. Inpspected engine & removed rocker cap, lots of steam/smoke (not sure) ... Removed belts to check wheels, all moved ok. I fear the worst, someone please HELP ! Thanks in advance TPK

Spot on .. This was my next job too .. I was wondering how to get that bloody peg thing out ! Do you remember the torque setting for the 24mm Nyloc ? THX TPK

Yer, Got these on my disco .. best people to speak to are devon4x4 phone them and give them the rundown on your disco and they'll suggest a mixed kit to suit the load. I have a stripped out commercial which i got 764’s on the front with 763’s in the rear .. hard ride .. but great off-road .. i run with no rollbars etc and i have less body roll than my mates standard. Gives a 2.5 inch lift .. and a level one at that .. the back is nice and high .. May cause driveline vibes and the usual suspects though as exceeds 2" Quality kit, go for it and spend a bit more on OME, its worth it .. TPK

Any pic's of this Expat ? Can you post some when done ? Cheers TPK

Thanks JW, good tips .. thats gonna be handy to know .. Getting car checked out on saturday to put my mind at rest after the crash. Fear the steering column may be shot. .. . Thanks TPK

Had a head on on thursday with an escort estate. Escort is no more and i sustained a bit of damage ... Basically the passenger wheel took to impact head on and it sheared the outrigger where the caster arm connects .. I welded this up and straightened my sumo bars and panhard rod and it seems to drive as normal now. The problem I have is with the ignition and steering column.... I now have no steering lock when key is removed and sometimes the car carries on running with the key out !£@£@ .. I took the steering wheel off after getting the tracking done to recenter the wheel and i fear its mis-aligned as the indicators self-cancel in the wrong place in the turn of the wheel ... My tyre guy tried to align the steering wheel center with the draglink adjustment but it was too far out so removal seemed the only way to re-align ! Anyone got any ideas ? Its a 300TDI disco BTW

For the record I had those "Jackmate" things and they bent first time out. All I did was pull a mates disco back down a small mound when it was crossed axled. Hammer would sort it but i wouldn't like to use them on anything serious ... cheers TPK

Hi All, Stripped out my commercial disco 1 interior and want to truck bed liner it all ... Was looking at protecta-kote roll-on kit and wondered if anyone has any experience or stories on this ? Thanks in advance TPK

Can you elaborate on this for me. Just i was considering a 30mm body lift. THX TPK

I have mine rigged up to to a factory switch on the main beam circuit .. works great as you can have the switch on all the time so spots come on with main beam ... of course but ...... On my disco i still have stock H4 connectors which corrode and fail making the lights dim .. when this happens the spots dont switch off with the main beam thus rendering them useless .. or illegal ... it does act as a reminde that you have to fix the H4 connectors though !!!