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Hello, just to close this thread down, the problem turned out to be the ecu and a protection diode had blown! Fingers crossed it will fix things and I’ll have a working engine again! Thanks for everyone’s help

Photos of the pcb

Hello, thanks for your replies it’s appreciated. I brought a noid light and I the light doesn’t light up when the pump primes or on crank. I know that the cables are ok to the injectors as if I disconnect the db37 and connect the injector circuit manually I can hear them click! I don’t know how it’s happened but I think there is something wrong with the ecu!

hello, i cant determine if the injectors are openng during the priming pulse or during a crank. I have fitted a spare injector to one of the injector cables but cant hear or feel its opening. All of the plugs remain dry. I am wondering if my multimeter is quick enough to see the voltage pulse of the injector opening or not? I have attached a couple of datalogs, it looks like there is some fuel getting into the cylinders as the RPM does increase and it sounds like it fires and then dies. I am now wondering if its a fuel issue!! goign to try a new fuel filter, nothing seen in the old one though. or am i going down the wrong route? 2020-06-07_18.43.22.mlg 2020-06-07_18.45.19.mlg

I did think that but with the throttle closed it 31 and foot to the floor it’s 254 during the calibration. Unless this can change during crank??? flood reset is at 200,

Hello, I have attached a couple of videos, I think the reset issue was due to the battery being slightly flat, its still not firing the injectors during the crank. the videos show the ecu red spark light coming on but nothing else. by the way the lambda and pwm are disconnected, hence the dials reading odd! Is there anyway of testing the injectors, or is there a setting i have missed in tunerstudio that could stop the injectors from operating? VideoCompressor_20200603123423767.mp4 VideoCompressor_20200603123407783.mp4

By disconnecting the plug at the ecu, I have checked that there is voltage when the ignition is on through the injector circuit to the ecu. And I have rerouted the 3 earths to the engine block. I have one main cable from the battery to the engine block and all grounds connect to thIs same point On the engine block. When I switch the ignition on, the fuel pump primes, and i see all the gauges on tunerstudio. When I turn the key to crank, I loose the connection to tunerstudio (engine continues to crank) and secl restarts, and all the gauges appear with a crank rpm of 130 to 150. There is voltage to the injectors but the ecu is not switching them? The only thing I can think is that the reset (if it is a reset) stops the ecu from switching the ignitors?

Further fault finding tonight, is reset noticeable by tunerstudio loosing the connection during the crank and the SECL counter restarting? i am wondering if it’s the earths from the ecu yo the engine block??

Yes standard ms1 and edis. fuel pumps runs all the time, tunerstudio shows a 130-150Rpm of engine when cranking I have got 12 v feed to the injectors which drops to about 10v during cranking, (measured between injector feed and earth point on engine) if I connect a voltmeter to an injector connector I don’t see Any volts at all, or if I connect a voltmeter to the two wires going to all the injectors. The ecu doesn’t appear to be switching the injectors? I am wondering if I should connect the earths from the mega squirt directly to the battery? They are currently going to a shared point on the engine block. tunerstudio is showing no resets in the real-time display.

Hello, I am sorry to have to come back and ask another question but, after resolving my previous issue with a backfire(lead to the coil was wrong from edis) the engine ran well and I decided due to lack of time to disconnect the ecu and put it into safe storage for the past 5 months! so thinking this will be a good time to start work on it again, I plugged it back in and its failed to start. I don’t seem to be getting any fuel through to the injectors, crank is at 130-150rpm and a very strong spark, but removing two plugs they are very dry, and spraying a bit of cold start into the inlet the engine fires and then dies. fuel pump primes and return is flowing back to tank (checked ok) nothing has changed with the wiring for the past 5 months and I really can’t work out where to start!

Just a quick update- I have some spare injectors now so as soon as Father Christmas no longer needs help I’ll get back into the garage! Thanks for all your help! Have a good Christmas!

Thanks

Are all Land Rover v8 Hotwire injectors the same (excluding the gems etc?) I notice some have a green band in the middle whilst others had a green band at the top. But both look the same other than that. Thanks

It’s looking like the no7 injector is blocked. It clicks ok with 12v applied and removing the plug can also test the ecu wiring. the spark is ok - checked with one of those visual colour tools that is fitted between the plug and lead. So now need an new injector, reading online - Vauxhall’s vectra are a good replacement??? They also appear a lot cheaper!

Thanks, is there a simple way of testing an injector? I’ll check out the wiring later but not sure on testing an injector?? (The Bosch Spark plugs were not planned, just a opportune buy a number of years ago!)