ricky tango

did this on the campsite in wales at the j33p event , 180 miles away from home lt77 locked up so we took it back to camp sourced a replacement from a breaker that day and replaced the lt77 and lt230 that evening to use the car the next day before then driving it home we had a halfords 150 piece set and a tool box of bits/ bars , there were 4 of us but it was done in the field after a days off roading and after me rolling my range rover and beating it back into a driveable state for the following days off roading and the dive home thats mine an hour or two before the swap (so we were bruised and battered) cage took the brunt of it although ive had to do some major work to keep it on the road as it was structurally damaged but its almost there now ive had some time to work on it

definitely leave the engine in there, if youve got a crane for taking the engine out then use it through the gear change hole to drop and lift the boxes as one , you'd lose air con , coolant, oil, and pas for a start if you drop the block and i would say fitting in one go is a heavy risky job dropping that all through the bonnet hole

I wouldnt post mate there's no point in ruining a solid screen

Where ate you I have one in west London cheap

It's body off too for a clutch I heard ?

Anyone know the weight of a rrc. I'm on the road on iPhone stopping to check this lol

I need to pick up a part stripped rrc and all my usual trailer friends are using them this weekend I've been offered the use of a transit beaver tail which he's had a disco on the back before , but Is it legal or is it over the limits of the transit ?

Having used both I agree a socket is nicer , more control when torquing down the second locknnut

Adwest recomendation here too, recieved a very personal service the other week

hi John, yes collection wasnt a problem / cash or card accepted price for an out right std box is £289.78 inc or they post for £23.00

hey guys i spoke to them and went down to pick one up , its a brand new out right unit only problem is mines got a disco type arm and when i got there he'd put me aside a defender early rrc type , and had no disco arms in stock so i got to bloody swap them

confused me now as i thought hydro is supposed to remove strain on the box ? or are your thoughts that i will go at it like a clown because i have hydro and pop broken box lol

lol ive gone many years without hurting mine too bad

right, i'm off / its raining , rrc bobtail play thing is stripped needs a new pas box but i have three choices 1, std brand new adwest steering box (fit hydro assist later) £280 + hydro £300 = £580 2, std internal quick ratio, doesn't strengthen or asist if it gets stuck in the mud but takes the car from 4 turns to 3 lock to lock £560 3 uprated internals quick ratio, less prone to shaft snapping quick ratio , but still has no assist in the boggy stuff £680 overall i think std with hydro will be as strong as uprated plus i get the assist when i need it and it will still be cheaper answers on the back of a post card

Thanks for the link, was just asking to see what the chances were before I call them

hi people's got a day off tomorrow and so im wondering if i were to phone adwest would i be able to pick up a rrc quick box tomorrow ? anyone done this before or are they built to order ?

Did it as was last suggested making my self a socket and after ages on the rattle gun I drilled it out to 19 mm and re tapped it to 1/2 bsp as the head gave up on the bung without it budging at all thanks guys

with the tank in place the plug is on the tank end pointing to the front of the vehicle, the plug looks just like the drain plug but runs a 3/8 hex , , ive contacted snap on with no luck and drawing blanks at the minute lol

hi guys i'm really struggling on this one , trying to remove the end plug from my rrc air tank as im upgrading from an electric pump to engine driven, the plug is 3/8 allen key and its stuck fast. ive put a 180' twist on a regular allen key with a club hammer and ive tried heating it and using a breaker bar but that coupled with soft halfords tools didnt go well , im now looking at rattle gunning it when its hot but need to find a 3/8 hex supplier in the area, machine mart / cromwells etc all stock metric but that doesnt fit. any suggestions ?

put my head down inbetween work and building a shop for a friend and got this n knocked up on a pillar drill

my thought is you have a 3.9 that ran a plastic type header with twin pipes and its been fitted in to your car with the metal single pipe header. had this problem on a 3.5 to 3.9 conversion

Went there late last year an it was a boggy old site all others in the group without lockers struggled the whole day, we even stayed the night and next day to repair one of my groups vehicles as it shattered a swivel ball in a down hill mud hole which resulted in the drivers front hub and wheel laying next to the vehicle

there no right or wrong way the ls type will lock if your stuck and free up when it senses your not, some other auto lockers lock up any time they sense big power and not necessarily any wheel slip, i myself have switchable lockers as i've both been told and can see first hand when using them. In tight spaces in the mud its nice to switch one or the other axle on or off to either create sliding to aid you in getting out of places unscathed, or ( and this is what sold the switchable to me ) to switch them off as on a bank of mud blah blah getting severely stuck looking at fast approaching trees etc as you slide around with your axles locked i can turn them off and seem to gain a bit of control by not having all my points of contact to the ground spinning simultaneously (and you obviously don't have that switch and choice with an atb

just looking for a confirmation on whats rattling around in my head rrc 3.9 v8 zf auto 1.4 lt230 35" simex ^ now sits lovely on the motor way pulls fine and uses all the gears off road however, its quite easy to stall out as if the autobox is engaged too much as the 1.4 lt230 has only really corrected the high range gearing problem and not the low range gearing solution : 1.2 lt230 again and 4.12 ring and pinions, on paper these have as good a set of figures for the high range output of the 1.4 lt230 , but obviously they will correct my gearing to get the engine to stop choking its self on some of the naughty stuff i throw the car in to

i was thinking the same thing about the student, they are not the smallest all though i would compromise on space as the reviews say there not bad units. i.e the port sizes , the manifold is the direst route from compressor to tank and it is also an inflation and light tool on board air system. ive seen the restriction a coily lead had on a mates work shop compressor to know that i want 1/4 ports , to get them all used and plumbed in it still looks a very compact unit with the 1/4 ports . still waiting on the bar to arrive before i start pm'ing people but i will send them out once it is here