Jump to content

blacksmithbob

Settled In
  • Posts

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

1 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for that. The 3 big Phillips screws are almost a windscreen out job too!
  2. Hello all, I'm just trying to put a new bulb in the hazard switch, so apart from the two screws on the bottom edge of the centre console, what else has to be removed from the dash to get it off? Thanks in advance.
  3. What more can be said? It's such a significant upgrade for bugger all money, why for the cost of two relays and a bit of cable, didn't Land Rover implement this years ago?
  4. I started by fixing the boomslang loom relays in a sensible(ish) starting position in the passenger side headlamp well out of the rain, and then running the drivers side headlamp cable over the top of the rad under the plastic shroud (mine's a td5) and into the driver side headlamp well squeezing under the power steering reservoir. I thought I'd be tight on space but there was actually bags of it. The feed came from a fat (fused) cable from the battery box which I soldered and heatshrinked to an area on the wing where the heater box is, so I can tap into it in future when I add extra lights.
  5. Hi there, I washed my 110 (2004 Td5) for the first time in a long while a couple of weekends ago, and noticed how shabby and dull (and awash internally) my original running lamps were, so I thought I'd bite the bullet and fit the NAS lamps I'd bought three or four years ago but never got round to fitting because I’m always reticent about molesting bodywork to fit things unless absolutely neccessary. (Read Lazy) I thought I’d check out the current offerings and ended up ordering a set of RDX front and rear sidelights and indicators from Bolt on Bits on eBay in the original Defender sizes. They arrived very promptly and were fitted in no time at all, and I am absolutely delighted with them; The Bolt on Bits eBay blurb says “This little lamp punches way above its size, no need to upgrade to NAS spec lamps” and I completely agree. They have transformed the vehicle, and I cannot recommend them enough. They look remarkably similar to the Wipac LED offering, but were a little less expensive. After fitting them I noticed my headlamps looked very yellow compared to the LED sidelights. I upgraded the headlamps about six years ago when I bought the car by replacing the Wipac Quadoptics with the Wipac clear lenses and some xenon bulbs (can’t remember which). These were a vast improvement when I originally fitted them, but have since appeared to have grown steadily dimmer over the ensuing years. So after a recent lamp switch fail, (Under alarming circumstances) I went down the Relays On The Lighting Circuit route and found the Boomslang headlamp upgrade Loom in stock at Paddocks. Ordered Monday, delivered Wednesday; Thank you Paddocks. Ok. I could have made one myself, but for £23 + vat and postage, I doubt I could have got all the materials. As I have said, the main reason for uprating the wiring was to avoid any recurrence of the instant and jaw-droppingly scary total blackout conditions when my switch failed at speed on a winding B-road at the dead of night, and my puny human brain processed the switch failure information in what seemed like four days but was probably a few milliseconds, and I managed to wrestle madly with the lighting stalk and eventually got home safely by blinding every oncoming motorist I met. So this afternoon I fitted it. I must say it was reasonably pain free although certainly not the ‘fitted or removed in minutes’ I had read in various places. By the way, I had noticed the Wipac clear lenses had developed a nasty ‘haze’ on them which accounted for their slow degrading over the years which I largely removed with a good rub with Autosol polish - The lenses are polycarbonate, not glass (this improved the output before fitting the Boomslang Loom) I didn’t have any issues with the ‘dim-dip’ relay I have read about, but the first thing I noticed was the headlamp bulbs were noticeably whiter and didn’t have the yellowness when compared to the LED sidelights. I waited till dark for a proper test around the back lanes of the New Forest where I reside, and am really very happy. Whilst the difference is not ‘Night and Day’ it is really very obvious and very reassuring. Both main and dipped beam are so improved I would have absolutely no hesitation in recommending either this loom, or a similar home made one, and the Wipac clear lens headlamps. In fact I have a a pair of 130watt pencil beam KC daylighters that have been waiting patiently to be fitted (because I can’t find a suitable ‘A’ bar) for as long as the NAS lights have, and now there’s even less hurry to fit them. I hope other owners may find this useful.
  6. Paul, thanks for your very helpful reply. At 50 odd quid for a new switch that's a result! Many thanks again.
  7. Hi all, my hazard warning switch's internal lamp has packed in. Can it be replaced? and how does the switch come out? Many thanks
  8. Thanks Andrew, I swapped the o-rings from my original pump but it didn't help, so had to buy a new OEM one which I fitted this morning; fingers crossed..............
  9. Hi all I changed the fuel pump on my 2004 Td5 110 about 1500 - 2000 miles ago and it started running more noisily last week (I thought here we go another one on the way out). As I had cut a hole in the rear floor and fitted an inspection cover, It's easy now to see if there was anything obvious. there wasn't. I then noticed a couple of days ago the pump had gone back to being quiet again but I'd developed a monumental leak. Having had another look in the inspection cover diesel is leaking from the right hand side (Black) fuel pipe. I was surprised because this is the low pressure return line. Anyway there is quite a bit of sideways force on that pipe and it is being pulled to the right and obviously not sealing anymore. Has anyone had this problem and managed to sort it? The pump is an aftermarket one and I can't remember who I got it from otherwise I'd send it back. Thanks for any suggestions.
  10. Hi Paul! No I won't be back on your ramp unless it's for the rears! It's purely a cosmetic thing at the moment. I filled it up on Thursday evening (£102!) and it's now sitting level as opposed to being slightly nose down after leaving you. If I go for HD rears will I just be exaggerating the original nose down stance, by making the back end even higher? The change to heavy duty fronts has not affected the ride at all; it's exactly the same comfort wise, not the harshness I was expecting so I'm really pleased with that. I don't carry a lot of weight in the back except a some recovery gear and occassionally the children. So hence my question; the fronts had definitely settled over time even before I fitted the winch and bumper, so will the new springs settle down too?
  11. As the title suggests; How long do springs normally take to settle. I've just put Heavy Duty springs on the front of my 110, as it was sitting quite low at the front (about 2 to 3 inches lower than our 90). It has a winch and bumper fitted. It's now sitting level and it doesn't look right!
  12. Sorry if I got the wrong end of the stick. The pics on this page are both of the centre console so presumed that's what's being discussed. Still maintain it's an ugly bit of kit, but it wouldn't do if we were all the same.
  13. I don't wish to be inflammatory, but why would anyone want to replace a TD5 centre console with one of these?
  14. Thank you Ralph. would you put new shockers in while you're at it? they're not desperately expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy