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jaysjetski

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Everything posted by jaysjetski

  1. yup this is true. i just changed the battery. doesnt beep. i wish i had know this for the last year!!!!!!!!!
  2. sound like the rear subframe Mount gone to me. drivers side front bolt mount. see if it will move when the rear wheels are raised by inserting a long bar between the suframe and chassis, if it moves then the chassis has split and the captive mut is lose causing a knocking sound when on bumps etc. hope this helps
  3. hi all, not sure if this is in the right section,sorry if it isnt, this is the sale of my 1999 freelander 1.8 petrol. 83500 miles, mot october 2011, tax june 2011, has had the headgasket changed at 73000 miles with also a new reconditioned cylinder head and cambelt kit, also has the vvc alloy inlet fitted, new clutch fitted only 2000 miles ago. vcu bearing changed feb 2010, 5 matching khumo road venture A/T tyres with loads of tread, good condition inside and out, passenger side wing mirror cover is taped on, rear bumper has a small scuff, rear boot inner trim panel has holes in as it had a dog guard fitted, everything works, abs, t/c, hill decent etc. more pictures on request. located in bristol. £1400 ono
  4. 3k vibration sounds like the driverside ird mounting bracket failure. i had the same thing plus i had 2 bolts missing, you will have to remove the driver front wheel, engine protector cover, then have a good look at the bracket that is 'C' shaped going wat looks like around the drivershaft. it may have cracked or have bolts missing. there are several. one really long one which goes in underneath the powersteering pump. hope that help. rear subframe bush is a pain in the ass but about an hours works. undo the 4 rear subframe bolts to lower the frame,(not remove) then get at the front bush, remove replace and refit the subframe bolts.
  5. my car has done this since i bought it in jan 2010 and still does it!!!! surely the battery should of gone flat by now!!! but the fob is the only one i have and still beeps until i turn the ignition key.
  6. Just get a roof mounted half size box. i have one. im 5'8" and my wife is 5'1" all we do is stand on the rear tyre or the door sill. its not great but for a few bags of clothes or boots then surely its not that much of an issue. if you were packing you antique china then you mite need to see what your doing and have better reach. as for car parks most are over 2.1m-2.4m. freelanders are about 1.8m and roof box is .4m.(approx 2.2m) plus once you are camping my roof box only takes 2-3minutes to fit and remove. This is the box i have http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_categoryId_165500_productId_709089_langId_-1?cm_mmc=Shopping-_-Google%20Product%20Search-_-Roof+Bars+%26+Boxes/Roof+Boxes-_-Exodus+360L+Roof+Box+Gloss+Black+2009&source=shopping&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=lwmlqi&istBid=t
  7. my haynes manual shows a picture fitted as the way you found it. however when i replaced mine they were the other way like you think they should be facing the bearing and thats how i refitted. didnt cover in grease though and touch wood no problems for 6000 miles
  8. easy enough job to do... duno whats a local garge charge then work out from there. got to be £150 plus parts minimum i would say
  9. i know this is an old thread, i have heard if you dont remove the gearbox adaptor to the rear prop then the car is still using the ird. thus saving some fuel but not as much as it could. also if the front wheels slip/loose traction then it tries to put the power to the rear wheels thus cause more issues as its not there.
  10. they are on the petrol model, and they come when u buy the gasket kit. i have 2 new ones for a petrol head if u wanna pay the postage
  11. yes its only for closing the window. i dont know if you know but unlock the car fully. hold down the unlock button for 5 seconds and the rear window will go down. to close put key in boot and turn holding until it fully closed. it a shopping mode so u havnt got to open the boot. jay
  12. webasto's can be bought for petrols as i have one in my garage to fit to my wifes 1.8 freelander to help defrosting for the school run
  13. no, the tc light is the traction control. its flashing because a wheel is spinning and the cars traction control system is active and trying to stop it spinning.
  14. ^^^^^ just to check you are bleeding it correctly? bleed closed,pedal up. open bleed press pedal and hold down to floor, close bleed then pedal up. then repeat. unless its different than bleeding brakes. this does not sound right.... I had my son depress the pedal to the floor, I'd release the pressure via the bleed nipple and retighten it, he would lift the pedal fully back up to the normal position by hooking his toe underneath. or this....... This time I flushed it thru faster not bothering to close the bleed nipple on the upstroke of the pedal.
  15. hi, welcome to the site, you have two options, from memory the locking wheel key has a code on it. give that code to landrover and they can get you a new key but as you have damaged the nuts i would say buy a new set. the last set i bought was from ebay, about £25 delivered and they were genuine landrover.just search ebay for freelander locking wheel. as to removing them you can get alloy wheel locking nut removers. they have an anti-clockwise thread inside tehm. you smack them on and as you undo the nut the thread bits on which in turn makes them come off the thread is normal anti-clockwise. hope this helps
  16. if this is for a freelander 1 its easy. look from underneath you can see 4 Phillips screws. undo those then pull from the bottom.
  17. surely they are just wire covers to keep them clean etc.
  18. thanks phils truck. just been outside, i have a 1999 k series. removed the low pressure plug. had 4 wires. found that the grey/pink wire and blue/green wires were the ones needed. hooked them together and as hoped the pumped clicked in and fans running. now to get it regassed. thanks again
  19. thanks for the info phils truck will try it this week. donald as i have written i dont want to take it some where and spend money because if its the pump not working they would say its been refilled and most likely charge me. i want to do some home testing first then get refilled as needed. thanks again
  20. hi all. its the end of the summer and havnt needed the aircon with the opening rear window. but with the winter coming the aircon helps with the demisted the windows. but mine doesnt work. the switch lights up but the clutch isnt engaging. i have heard that it may be due to low pressure. i dont really want to send it in somewhere to find out that its not just low gas and a problem with the pump. can anyone tell me how to bridge the low pressure sensor as that will force the pump to work. then i can get regassed or parts changed. if anyone has done this or know how would be great. thanks jason
  21. i think he would have fun on loose shingle. if he could get moving on hard ground and keep the momentum then i would say it would be fine. I would go to a local garage(if there is one) take one for a test drive and just try it without the boat on the shingle, i saw a good sized maxim wakeboarding boat towed off of oxwich bay(hard sand) with no problems on a 07 plate freelander.
  22. as my post says the cam sprockets are the same. as you know which is the inlet cam and exhaust cam surely my post is easy to follow. the exhaust cam has the sprocket dowel in the EX side and the inlet cam has the sprocket dowel in the IN side. http://dump.mk-edition.com/Picture%20006.jpg you can just see in the image above the EX mark in the left hand sprocket with the dowel in that side. and on the right sprocket you can see the dowel by the IN side.(image is just for viewing. not saying this is the correct way around)
  23. as per haynes manual and how i did it last. quote. both intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets are the same but each one is equipped with two locating pin cut outs. if the sprocket is being fitted to the intake camshaft, engage the locating pin in the IN cut out, and if the sprocket is being fitted to the exhaust camshaft, engage the locating pin in the EX cut-out. ensure each one is engaged fully and refit the washer(correct way around) and retaining bolt. hope that helps
  24. the main question is how heavy is the 12-14foot boat. if its inflatable then its not gonna weigh anything, if its a steel tub then its gonna be heavy. i would say the same about the traction control. i was playing in some sand dunes only the other day and had this issue. i was in a 1.8 petrol and the traction control kicked in making the car stall. i feathered the clutch and got it out. so its depending on the boat weight,find that out and i think you can get a better idea. i would of thought it will be fine.
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