[Removing crankshaft pulley............]

There's a cover on the bellhousing?

Where dat den?

The little round plate under neath?

[Removing crankshaft pulley............]

That's what I thoght Nigel. Hence the original question.

Considering most of the top is off -trumpet base, fuel rail etc, wires disconnected, I don't think I could spin the motor anyway .

I thinks it's a case of what you say with the starter motor. A bit more scrabbling about under neath trying to find the starter motor bolts

[WEBSITE INFORMATION - PLEASE ALL READ]

Hi Les, donation made.

Cheers,

Jon

[Dust and Fume Extraction]

Maybe something like a leaf blower/sucker. a bit noisy but a good suck

[MS - Where to start???????]

Managed to get some sensor friendly from this guy

www.pauls-place.com

Seems to have a good site.. alot to do with Yank motors

[Removing crankshaft pulley............]

Got the landy in the garage for the MS project. 3.5 V8 4sp auto.

Had to push it in so knocked everything into neutral & pushed it in.

I've got TDC but want to remove the pulley. If I put it into low range,

shift it into 1st, handbrake on, chock the wheels.. Should this lock the

engine up? Or is there something weird with an auto?

Another daft question...it's not a LH thread is it?

Any advice most welcome.

Cheers,

Jon

[Interferance fit]

Maybe look at 30m6. This would give you a double-plus on the shaft. You could probably go a bit more to get a tight fit.

Google limits and fits. On some bearing/seal sites they have some useful limit and fit info.

[many thanks]

Well done. Nice looking truck

[MS - Where to start???????]

Thanks Nige,

Some do state they're silicon based, some don't.

This one on ebay specifies a part no Hylomar Universal Blue Gasket Sealant Part number reference is RTC 3347.

This is a non-setting type.

When I took the plenum & trumpet base off, the sealer appeared to have "cured" to a silicon sealer texture,

although this was a flapper, so no lambda.

[MS - Where to start???????]

Quick question - When I stick the trumpet housing & the plenum back on, do I use a non-setting Hylomar sealant or an RTV sealant?

[MS - Where to start???????]

Well, last night fitted the fuel rail & injectors into the 3.5 manifold. Feels good.

Once the injectors are clipped into the rail, the injector length makes for a good fit

into the manifold. I think I originally had the injectors too far in.

Another small piece of the jigsaw done

[MS - Where to start???????]

I'll have another look-see tonight nd which "feels" best

[MS - Where to start???????]

Fitted the fuel rail and injectors to the 3.5 manifold tonight. The injectors don't seem to seat too positively in the manifold.

The 3.9 manifold injector holes appear to be deeper and the injectors seem to seta further in.

The injectors are in the holes but not as much. Should I put the 3.9 manifold on or try it a sit stands?

By the way, the 3.9 manifold has a couple of broken screws where the trumpet base fitted (broken by previous owner)

[MS - Where to start???????]

Yes, Fridge is right. I trial fitted the fuel rail and the "tabs" on the rail appeared to line up with the tapped holes on the manifold.

If that's the case, hopefully the fuel rail, when clamped, will hold the injectors tight in there positions.

[MS - Where to start???????]

Cheers Fridge, Yes I've got the fuel rail as well, so not a problem.

Yes I thought about marking the pulley as you say. The way I see it

there must must be some sort of "dwell" around TDC. I'll give it a whizz

Cheers,

Jon

[MS - Where to start???????]

I've stripped the old top end down. Are the 3.9 injectors a straight fit into the 3.5 manifold?

Is it best to coat the injector seals with anything to help fit them? Would WD40 affect the seals?

Making slow but steady progress

To find TDC, if I put a DTI onto the top of No1 piston rotate the engine to line up the timing marks

to show TDC, and have the rotor arm pointing at No1 plug lead position, that'll be right, won't it?

Stupid question, but is there any dwell as the piston moves across TDC?

Once at TDC, whats the best way to lock it up to remove the pulley (ZF 4 sp auto)?

I know the questions sound a bit novice, but just making sure really

Cheers, Jon

[WTF is a catch Tank and do I need one ?]

Anyway Nige, I'd fit a shiny catch tank and drain the oil every now and again.

[WTF is a catch Tank and do I need one ?]

Whatever it is Nige, it's going to cost you a fortune

I'm sure Mr Eales is waiting with anticipation

[WTF is a catch Tank and do I need one ?]

I fitted a catch tank to my x-flow when I built my Westfield. There was a pipe from the crankcase which originally fed oil vapour back into the the carb inlet and therfore burnt off with the mixture. This crankcase breather was removed, replaced with a simple ally block and pipe, which fed into an oil catch tank fixed on the front bulk head. Mine was just a plastic catch tank, but you can get fancy shiny ally ones with drain tubes, I just used to empty mine when I had about 1/2" in the bottom.

Don't know if this helps Nige.

Jon

[still looking for a sollution for the V8]

Nige,

It's a bit like the old Everest answer - WHY? - because it's there

I'm with you all the way - build it, fit it then balls out

Jon

[New battery??]

Cheers Cat J. I had a Bosch on my V6 Mondeo and it really performed well.

[Dont View Before Eating Dinner...]

Come on, someone own up It says in the blurb they've had "requests"

[funny electrical problem]

What's wrong with that. I'm pretty sure it was an optional extra at the factory.

Most modern cars offer auto wipers as standard

[New battery??]

Thanks for that Ralph

Jon

[Hi all Im new to the forum......]

John,

I completely understand

Jon