Hybrid_From_Hell

Can anyone advise wtf these are called / wheee to get them they are off a very late D2 diff and are not sold by LR ! approx dimensions are width 16mm height 13.73mm thickness 1.15mm if I could just find something close to buy but really struggling all dimensional flexible - the of as is whacked into a casing hole the height as I can adjust it and thickness not cricjal help !!!!

Yup, going more as a visitor than hoovering up diff casings as I have around 120+ in stock so can wander around and see what I can find that right at this moment i don't know i can'tmlive without it Nige

Yes Daan, but it also helps that you know how to drive well + have mechanical sympathy

Crown wheel bolts from LR Ashcroft and KAM / GBR etc are now all 3/8 UNF, there is a HD (single use) 12.9 Flange headed bolt with locking serrations available - was used on wolfs P/N FTC5150 and crossed over to civvy use now too - Genuine only - I know who makes them and LR has it as a "Patented' Product - Genuine only ANY CWP - whatever the make - having casing pegged makes a massive and I mean MASSIVE increase in strength and reliability, in fact I would say a Standard 47/13 LR CW&P Pegged is stronger than an unpegged HD CWP of any flavour The new KAM CWPs are not as good as the Older KAM units, all down to Price vs Quality KAM CW&Ps are made in Turkey - no great secret sticker is on outside of boxes ! The differences between the 2 main players (Ashcroft & KAM etc) are down to the tooth count / pinion tooth count / land (base plate) and on Ashcrofts (which is our preferred unit for all builds unless customer demands otherwise) they have a different design of the angle - or more technically the scroll / shape on the tooth design / teeth - which is a hypoid type of design -this design / style of tooth improves strength by having a greater surface / tooth contact area. The Ashcroft Land (Base plate) is thinner than KAMs - although gets thicker as you go up ratios - 3.5 thinnest 4.75 thickest ) which has more smaller teeth to allow thicker Land, but pegging an Ashcroft gearset makes for a stronger unit due to the hypoid design and huge teeth and then the Phosphor bronze pad then adds thickness by it being there against the land vs the KAM with a thicker Land and much smaller teeth which by design can sheer easier pegged or not. KAM Design means it will be quieter than the Ashcroft design maybe - but its in a LR so quiet is not normally a pre requisite - and the Ashcroft require careful setting up especially on Head height - important on any pinion for a good mesh, more so on Ashcroft's maybe - this helps make them quiet when finished KAM are now technically owed by Britpart as they bought Allmakes who bought KAM and Terrafirma etc, all now under the Britpart Group ownership However .......... in simple basic terms .......... M57 + Anything= Pegged ............Whatever else you buy / think of IMVHO ................ bow lastly 11” have a short nose differential and there are few CWPs sets about you can only get 3.54 4.1 and 4.75 KAM do 4.1 and 4.74 Ashcroft do /did can’t remember 4.1 and that’s all you ca have additionally it’s a dreadful unit …..

Morning All, There are only a few actual MAKERS of CW&Ps in the world, GBR Terrafirma Britpart Allamkes and many others sell CW&Ps under their own brand or on behalf of.- that incs LR themselves they have them made for themselves ! Additionally there are "Grades" within the manufactuers as well, ie they will make / sell you good CWPs or for less money a cheapened version - so just becuase its a brand "XYZ" can mean nothing ! There are some indian and chinese units out there - aviod like the plague There are when you look at the MAKES CWPS pros and cons for each - whats is the application / Build / whats views have you got on the units you are thinking of any why ? Nige

🤦‍♂️ Yes I know its an old thread but I know of someone looking for a V8 - so is this still for sale ?

Possibly, The supporters (both types) have different settings and Forum access etc, so it could well be ?

😎perfick - that’s tomm 1st jobbie 😎😂

I am looking at that bearing puller ! Whilst we no longer work on Salisburys I am wondering if that might do for other bearings - the short nose head being an absolute bugger to remove ... Could you please measure the OD and ID of a salisbury carrier bearing and let mr know - I think I can lathe up collars / spacers if need be, the kit I looked at also comes with 3 x bearing adapters ......I see a plan forming possibly ! Post up when you can after you've dug out the old ones lol !! Nige

Hello All, Following a 'forum update' if you are a either a 'Supporting member', or 'Long term Financial Supporting' member,....... and have lost your banner & staus and are now not enjoying advert free browsing ... Its possibly because I cannot tie up the account to you properly ! If you think I / the software has made a error of your status then please Message me and I can sort it out ! And......... If you are reading this, and feel you might like to not only have a advert free forum,( and a nice shiney banner ) then contact me about becoming a financial supporter for a nominal £s Read more here : https://forums.lr4x4.com/funding/ Meantime enjoy LR4x4 Nige On behalf of the A&M Team Lr4x4.com

Ok, Bear in mind the bearings etc are new, but the CW&P is not and may have done Moon Miles (and back ) As such you have to accept wear, and that the blue check run out back lash may be close or even out of "Spec". We tend to start this final process "by Feel" helps when you do it every B day you do get "a Feel" for where things are Then we rotate and jiggle it about and see if its quiet - if it not quiet the blue check is rather irrelevant ! If there are no tight spots and it sounds and feels smooth then and only then do with get the Dial Gauge out and measure, for us its more checking we are where we think we are, minor adjustments, and a quadrant check etc, and then we check again for run out and tight spot and that its quiet. Finally if we are happy with all of the above we blue check it, even then you can be caught out with weird patterns from previous wear / damage, but what you are hoping for is more confirmation thats the previous steps are all good and so too the blue check I think that is a good pattern, if there are no tight spots and it sounds quiet I would stick with that . - There is always the ability to fiddle some more and end up with it worse ....been there done that, ......prob do it again, so run with it if it all seems ok Nige

Hmmm... Not sure an email address is PII as such but have added some stars to corrupt the addy but hopefully still "Oh thats ME" to owner Nige

Hi all, Following a forum update I need to have a chat with around membership data mark.h*****t@k****tire.com peterim****es@btinternet.com ric**rdj***is57@outlook.com r*n.co*ry.iol@gmail.com Nige On behalf of LR4x4.com Team

100% agree check crown whe has no burrs on inside of bits of old loctite poking about clean clean clean wipe ATB as well with acetone or brake cleaner assemble and bolt up in stages and do it like a cylinder head not go around the circle 3 stages of going up is fine then go around and double check each bolt is up to torque and loctite it as it’s done and there isn’t much else you can do there so go for it clean clean clean

some casings at 30+ years do not like being stretched - not enough and it won' come out too much and thats a shagged axle tube, and rust and old age do not help Its an old trick but before you tighten the carrier bolts up fully give them a big clout with a hammer, sometimes you can hear a click 0 thats the race just settling which can defo help Whats the backlash in the 4 quadrants ? nige

I have heard from a few peeps who race that amazingly the current Britpart CVs are actually very decent !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok My 3p worth From a business point a view I see it all. I have customers with highly tuned engines on 37s who do full blown competitions........ and drive PROPERLY................. know when to stop ...................and when to use a winch................ and don't do any damage I have others who can blow up top of the range Diffs, CVs 300M shafts at a playday before lunchtime as they don't do any of the above and don't have any mechanical sympathy. OLD diff CVs and half shafts may be questionable, as they could have had owner 1 or owner 2, who knows, ..............but it is also valid that some pattern stuff is highly dubious One top tip is if you ever buy any new half shaft - get a razor blade and put a scratch full length top to bottom - then if when its ever out look at the line, if there is a twist you've saved the big bang / ££££££££s Driver 'No 2s' can do this sort of thing ............... https://fb.watch/qtkTWUyzkY/ .....................and that was not built very long ago ................................. 🙄

Correcting run out on a salisbury is tricky at best - from another angle whats the back lash at 12 o clock 3 6 and 9 in numbers old school thou would be good if you can if mm I'll convert and advise Nige

Yeah was told same with SKF and NTN vs Timken but if the pinion & Crown wheel have done loads of miles its not a crucial as if all new ! If you leave the shim as is and add a new bearing the pattern will be what the pattern is - its the backlash and run out to work on basically the pinion is what it is / and will be, you are just adjusting the crown wheel in / out to mesh with the pinion and get the right level out run out and back lash. Don't go bonkers in trying to set backlash as if the CW&P is new, be a bit more generous, the likelyhood is it go go too tight you will have big run out be a bit more generous and you'll get a bigger backlash number but way lower run out and its run out that can make diffs hum !!!!!!!!!!!! Nige

and this is the last hurdle ....................... bonkers complex and huge money might add to the can't be arsed list

The thing with pinion height is LR were / are very poor on tolerances - the tolerances are sometimes quite staggering so - the diff is built at the factory "Within tolerance" but in real terms is actually a bloody long way off what it COULD / SHOULD have been ................ This means the pinion being "technically" WRONG.. ( but actually from LRs point of view "WITHIN TOLERANCE" ) means quite simply its more of a factory 'that will do near enough' and has then spent its entire life not quite in the correct position / or what could have been better - and the pinion and the crown wheel have meshed from birth it these positions and have worn themselves for however many x,000,000 of miles. If you now start setting pinion heights and in effect make the pinion with the new bearing 'Closer' the where the pinion 'should' have been at day 1 - its will probably howl its head off !!!!!!!!!! And this is why I say use the same Brand head bearing as to exactly whats in there. Yes, the pinion head height will have changed as the bearing has worn, but that's still only fractional, and, all the time it has had that bearing in the wear has been in a small range . if you put in the same bearing replacement and from the same manufacturer then the pinion will still be asking to work in the same range again... We did a test once set up a pinion to 0.0 +/- and then swapped to SKF NTN - and the readings were different ! There is a huge risk of you over thinking this fitting of the ATB, the pinion isn't being changed, and whilst Head / tail / seal / drive flange is an excellent idea replace like with like and leave alone head height ! Nige

My advice on this would be to remove the race and find the maker IE if Timken replace with Timken, if SKF replace SKF etc. This way you can just change the bearing - reshimming the head height is not only not needed............. but unadvisable ! Nige

Good afternoon everybody ! I have been having some issues post Forum Software changes, in being able to connect 'Members' who assist with the funding of the forum with their Usernames / Payments / Emails etc I have therefore sent out an email to a group of members where I am struggling to match them up re the above ! PLEASE can your reply to the email with the requested information. Lastly - if you are funding the forum, made a one off donation, or are funding us monthly and do not have the correct membership - then please Message me with your details- as it could be you are within the above and I have no idea ! If you don't get an email, and your banner of "Forum supporter" is all correct then all is good ! Thanks Nige On behalf of the LR4x4.com Team

Oooo heeeeloooo dear 👍😂

I am so glad that this engine was one the leter ones I did all the brackets for - that VR sensor bracket was lots of head scratching and prototypes before I was happy talk about awkward !! You are getting there then