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Everything posted by Hybrid_From_Hell

  1. The compression is in the pistons not the heads. Changing heads for late ones won;'t really make any noticable difference. NHP & Torque on the 8.13 was way down on a 9.35 / 10.5:1 engines. If it has the pulsair system as well bin that will help a bit, but, to be honest swap block for a 3.9 unit is the route to look at .. Nige
  2. It's in bits.. Had to use serious force to get apart.....full of all.sorts of stuff....but not grease Currently boiling away in my ultrasonic cleaner for clean number erm.... 7 It's bad .....seriously "I should be ashamed of me bad" If it survives I'll do a write up Nige
  3. I have a rear Mounted Hydraulic Mile Marker powered by a class 2 Motor off my LT230 PTO The free spool, er...doesn't, its power in and power out which is a Real pain. Its been horribly abused over the years, so expecting it to need a major clean and polish up of seaized and rusty parts I have never ever had one of these apart, just wondering if anyone has a service manual / pictures of strip down etc, have googled meself daft and found next to foxtrot Anything Anyone have any info / links ? Plus anyone had the freespool stop working and know why ?? Nige
  4. You can !. Bonnet and trim needs cutting. Somewhere I have a customers feedback of exactlybwhatvis needed so ..if you email. E I will find it and send it to you so you can decide if minor and ok or too drastic lol Megasquirt.v8@gmail.com
  5. A Single strut will soon cause damage to the bonnet as it will flex and try to buckle not being supported on both sides - , a twin set up as I make has 2, but only is for 90s, and defenders of pretty much all flavours. And KEY is the bracketry that holds the rams both top and bottom, as if too small or poor the fixings will fracture. I designed mine due to me near knocking myself out when my bonnet prop undid itself on a windy day, and the smack on the head helped me have a good idea Video here - if any member or Moderator feels that I as an admin & a businesses owner I shouldn't post this video, say and I will delete toot de sweet Arjan - I have your PM and will reply
  6. 🤪 Tis done .................. Please advise on any weird things or things not working - but clear your Cache which will refresh to latest settings : https://clear-my-cache.com/windows.html
  7. Hi all, I need to run the new release for the Forums software Upgrade. Hence the forum might have been offline when you tried to access today - this is why and If you can read this and its gone 10.00 GMT then its worked and I haven't Broken it Nige On behalf on the LR4x4 Forums A&M Team
  8. on MS3 you can set the wheel wherever you like and then adjust it in the software. The MS3 manual gives details how to do this. It is not the same as EDIS on MS1 or MS2 MS3 is very state of the art, it can do masses, but it is also extremely complex !
  9. Phew ! The buttons survioved my Poke-about-worried-a-thon
  10. Hi All, The LR4x4 Forum has just undergone a maasssssooosive upgrade on software. Its desperately important we run the latest platform for security and all sorts of other nasties, but, it might mean something somewhere might have gotten bitten by the changes. Post up in this thread if there is anything missing / not working that you come across please Thanks Nige & the A&M Team
  11. 4 bolt PAS steering box .... Last year it started to leak, .... I fitted a new seal kit, .... hasn't lasted 5 minutes !! .., so the shaft has had it and I need a completely new unit If new who / where are the best to get, prices ?? if Reconditioned same question ? Thanks
  12. I have not tried one myself, but have heard from 2 x that have them that yes they are stronger than the factory unit and take a bit of swaering to fit as they are stronger
  13. Hmmm Whats the diff itself, as majority don't have anything brass in them ?
  14. Long nose and short nose axles and diffs on 110 are rated differently to carrying capacity. Props are totally different lengths so yes Ross is right saying the prop length is wrong. On 33s gearing is pretty much over the line for 3.54 ratios . Prob a 3.8 maybe a 4m1 to correct. So loads of areas are questionable
  15. You can put one of my superflange kits on it ... and it would also be able to take the late Punma Type and seal and is the 24 spline version with bolt down the send, have a lookie at webshop. Use FTC5150 on CWP stronger bolts and no washers torque to 55 ft lbs with loctite - note ONCE USE BOLT !! Nige
  16. Anorak outing time Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaay 😍 Thats an Metric casing. So, most Likley thats a 3.54 not a 4.7:1 and 10 spline all 10 spline are the same all weak Carrier cap bolts are going to be M12 CWP Bolts most likley 3/8s UNF 4 Spline Pinion Flange and early seal type with suacer shield / mud trap LOL Casing is stronger than Imperial ealier units but not even earlier Split casing as some had bigger head and tail bearings Center is very weak, 16mm pin, puma is 24 spline ...a bit better at 18mm pin but both junk IMHO From early 90 or early 2 door RR some cross overs have a filler plug in diff casing but not all Nige
  17. Hi. The ecu should be ok for own. Connect up to megatune and switch ignition on . Change a guage on the screen by left click mouse and select own or ICV . Is is showing power?
  18. Hi all, Following on from part 1 - where I had Ben at Clutchfix (3rd Generation of Clutch Builders who will probably forget more than I know on clutches) build me a all singing and all dancing clutch to cope with the "Rather daft & Loopy" near 350 BHP / near 400 Ft Lbs torque of my Full race JED Rover 5.2 V8. See Here : Now, when I was young and stupid (vs now much older and still as mad ) I have rather "Done My Back in" ..er somewhat....a lot... So, bear in mind when I say the clutch was a Tad hard on the left foot that's 2 spinal operations over the years, countless osteo visits ...massages (no proper ones not those ) and being stretched on a rack at the physio dept..... care of the NHS ...my back is "Not great" When you consider a Stock Clutch from LR fresh out of showroom / Valeo 336 Ft Lbs Ft Lbs clamp, a Clutchfix standard HD 370 Ft Lbs clamp and my er "Thing" 570+ Ft Lbs, you can see that it will be harder. To be honest if my back wasn't as it is might live with it, but, having driven it for some time it was throwing my back out a bit ...so I did some research Yes, I could have maybe made my own kit, but I dont have the time running a small business, so I took the plunge and fitted a Red Booster Kit. Summary. Great Kit, bloody dreadful instructions, quite the worst I have had to cope with, so though a independent write up and review would be a good idea. Pics show most that you need to know but to fit 1. Remove the bloody brake pedal box, its says in the instructions you don't need to but it then if fitted feels like doing a genealogical inspection on a female mouse who is shy. Take the bloody thing out its 6 bolts ! 2. Don't use their spring or penny washer use the original, better fixing via the bent tab and stronger spring 3. If a later over centrer unit throw the assister spring away - not needed ! 4. Assemble the base carrier and plunger , and we also changed all the bolts from 4.8s to 8.8s as there is some serious forces involved....but we are OCD fussy. 5. Once back on the truck the absolute KEY thing is the adjustment of the clevis pin to mounting on the servo unit this is the one at the rear of the unit closest to the bulkhead and at the top. This is 101% key to getting the pedal to behave and be on / off in the middle of the push down of the pedal, we followed the instructions to their letter and had a clutch that would not work, it wasn't pushing down enough. Reason was their spring not pulling the pedal up fully, with the old spring back on and the pedal fully raised we adjusted to clearances so the pin JUST fits without being forces, 4 rotations on the shaft made all the difference between no clutch and full clutch 6. They also supply a reservoir. We haven't yet fitted this, the idea being thanks to a clever Mate Jon W who explained it is you ONLY have full vacuum on tickover, at "bat-out-of-hell" rev you don't, so the reservoir is for gear changes on the move. However , as this is a 2 ton + Brick and a LT85 gearbox its not M3 gear change on the Nürburgring ring territory so we are running without to see, ...IF... its heavier on the move then we will fit it, not doing makes life a lot easier in a tight bay. 7. Its a tight Fit, more so in mine as being a V8 90 it has the biggest Servo on brakes, but it JUST fits, so even on my version these are ok. All in all I now even with a dodgy back and a 570 Ft Lbs clutch have a nice clutch which makes it much lighter. I would also say that a 370 ish clutch with one of these may well end up giving you either no feel at all or a very very light clutch. There is a lot of nonsense talked about clutches, there are some copyists on the market who are legends in their own minds but are not as clever as they think they are, and some of the pattern stuff is just - well junk. I turned to Clutchfix with my own thoughts and ideas, they convinced me I was on the wrong route and to trust them to build what they knew from 3 generations of experience would be right, and it is, only fitting a Red Booster as it is waaaaay OTT on a clutch, and me with a damaged spine from the joys of spreading my body on tarmac exiting superbike years ago LOL. Chuffed. If you need a clutch call on Ben at Clutchfix and listen. Know their stuff. As to if you really need a red booster - they make a vast difference, but setting up that bloody linkage is key ! Nige
  19. 4.2 V Belt (ie Non Serp) would use the same kits as a 3.9 V Belt, but the ECU would have to have a slightly different mapping which is no prob Nige
  20. Ouch ! I can get it looked at by a grown up ! Nige
  21. ring me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! we got a bit mad on orders ! - when I promise delivery dates I wnat to make sure we hit them - when I buy stuff I hate it when people let me don't so we took the shop down so we could hit all deadlines and catch up, but about !! Nige
  22. Anyone know the differences between 90 v8 200 tdi 300 tdi and defendet td5 TCDi etc. Are they all the same "power" etc ..what's the differences between them or are they all pretty much the same ??
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