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Everything posted by Hybrid_From_Hell

  1. Phew ! The buttons survioved my Poke-about-worried-a-thon
  2. Hi All, The LR4x4 Forum has just undergone a maasssssooosive upgrade on software. Its desperately important we run the latest platform for security and all sorts of other nasties, but, it might mean something somewhere might have gotten bitten by the changes. Post up in this thread if there is anything missing / not working that you come across please Thanks Nige & the A&M Team
  3. 4 bolt PAS steering box .... Last year it started to leak, .... I fitted a new seal kit, .... hasn't lasted 5 minutes !! .., so the shaft has had it and I need a completely new unit If new who / where are the best to get, prices ?? if Reconditioned same question ? Thanks
  4. I have not tried one myself, but have heard from 2 x that have them that yes they are stronger than the factory unit and take a bit of swaering to fit as they are stronger
  5. Hmmm Whats the diff itself, as majority don't have anything brass in them ?
  6. Long nose and short nose axles and diffs on 110 are rated differently to carrying capacity. Props are totally different lengths so yes Ross is right saying the prop length is wrong. On 33s gearing is pretty much over the line for 3.54 ratios . Prob a 3.8 maybe a 4m1 to correct. So loads of areas are questionable
  7. You can put one of my superflange kits on it ... and it would also be able to take the late Punma Type and seal and is the 24 spline version with bolt down the send, have a lookie at webshop. Use FTC5150 on CWP stronger bolts and no washers torque to 55 ft lbs with loctite - note ONCE USE BOLT !! Nige
  8. Anorak outing time Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaay 😍 Thats an Metric casing. So, most Likley thats a 3.54 not a 4.7:1 and 10 spline all 10 spline are the same all weak Carrier cap bolts are going to be M12 CWP Bolts most likley 3/8s UNF 4 Spline Pinion Flange and early seal type with suacer shield / mud trap LOL Casing is stronger than Imperial ealier units but not even earlier Split casing as some had bigger head and tail bearings Center is very weak, 16mm pin, puma is 24 spline ...a bit better at 18mm pin but both junk IMHO From early 90 or early 2 door RR some cross overs have a filler plug in diff casing but not all Nige
  9. Hi. The ecu should be ok for own. Connect up to megatune and switch ignition on . Change a guage on the screen by left click mouse and select own or ICV . Is is showing power?
  10. Hi all, Following on from part 1 - where I had Ben at Clutchfix (3rd Generation of Clutch Builders who will probably forget more than I know on clutches) build me a all singing and all dancing clutch to cope with the "Rather daft & Loopy" near 350 BHP / near 400 Ft Lbs torque of my Full race JED Rover 5.2 V8. See Here : Now, when I was young and stupid (vs now much older and still as mad ) I have rather "Done My Back in" ..er somewhat....a lot... So, bear in mind when I say the clutch was a Tad hard on the left foot that's 2 spinal operations over the years, countless osteo visits ...massages (no proper ones not those ) and being stretched on a rack at the physio dept..... care of the NHS ...my back is "Not great" When you consider a Stock Clutch from LR fresh out of showroom / Valeo 336 Ft Lbs Ft Lbs clamp, a Clutchfix standard HD 370 Ft Lbs clamp and my er "Thing" 570+ Ft Lbs, you can see that it will be harder. To be honest if my back wasn't as it is might live with it, but, having driven it for some time it was throwing my back out a bit ...so I did some research Yes, I could have maybe made my own kit, but I dont have the time running a small business, so I took the plunge and fitted a Red Booster Kit. Summary. Great Kit, bloody dreadful instructions, quite the worst I have had to cope with, so though a independent write up and review would be a good idea. Pics show most that you need to know but to fit 1. Remove the bloody brake pedal box, its says in the instructions you don't need to but it then if fitted feels like doing a genealogical inspection on a female mouse who is shy. Take the bloody thing out its 6 bolts ! 2. Don't use their spring or penny washer use the original, better fixing via the bent tab and stronger spring 3. If a later over centrer unit throw the assister spring away - not needed ! 4. Assemble the base carrier and plunger , and we also changed all the bolts from 4.8s to 8.8s as there is some serious forces involved....but we are OCD fussy. 5. Once back on the truck the absolute KEY thing is the adjustment of the clevis pin to mounting on the servo unit this is the one at the rear of the unit closest to the bulkhead and at the top. This is 101% key to getting the pedal to behave and be on / off in the middle of the push down of the pedal, we followed the instructions to their letter and had a clutch that would not work, it wasn't pushing down enough. Reason was their spring not pulling the pedal up fully, with the old spring back on and the pedal fully raised we adjusted to clearances so the pin JUST fits without being forces, 4 rotations on the shaft made all the difference between no clutch and full clutch 6. They also supply a reservoir. We haven't yet fitted this, the idea being thanks to a clever Mate Jon W who explained it is you ONLY have full vacuum on tickover, at "bat-out-of-hell" rev you don't, so the reservoir is for gear changes on the move. However , as this is a 2 ton + Brick and a LT85 gearbox its not M3 gear change on the Nürburgring ring territory so we are running without to see, ...IF... its heavier on the move then we will fit it, not doing makes life a lot easier in a tight bay. 7. Its a tight Fit, more so in mine as being a V8 90 it has the biggest Servo on brakes, but it JUST fits, so even on my version these are ok. All in all I now even with a dodgy back and a 570 Ft Lbs clutch have a nice clutch which makes it much lighter. I would also say that a 370 ish clutch with one of these may well end up giving you either no feel at all or a very very light clutch. There is a lot of nonsense talked about clutches, there are some copyists on the market who are legends in their own minds but are not as clever as they think they are, and some of the pattern stuff is just - well junk. I turned to Clutchfix with my own thoughts and ideas, they convinced me I was on the wrong route and to trust them to build what they knew from 3 generations of experience would be right, and it is, only fitting a Red Booster as it is waaaaay OTT on a clutch, and me with a damaged spine from the joys of spreading my body on tarmac exiting superbike years ago LOL. Chuffed. If you need a clutch call on Ben at Clutchfix and listen. Know their stuff. As to if you really need a red booster - they make a vast difference, but setting up that bloody linkage is key ! Nige
  11. 4.2 V Belt (ie Non Serp) would use the same kits as a 3.9 V Belt, but the ECU would have to have a slightly different mapping which is no prob Nige
  12. Ouch ! I can get it looked at by a grown up ! Nige
  13. ring me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! we got a bit mad on orders ! - when I promise delivery dates I wnat to make sure we hit them - when I buy stuff I hate it when people let me don't so we took the shop down so we could hit all deadlines and catch up, but about !! Nige
  14. Anyone know the differences between 90 v8 200 tdi 300 tdi and defendet td5 TCDi etc. Are they all the same "power" etc ..what's the differences between them or are they all pretty much the same ??
  15. Anyone have any info / 1st hand experience on the red booster kits ...so far hearing not good / don't buy !
  16. cover was a standard AP.....not man enough by far for the torque this boots out lol
  17. Mike, any pics install guidance as on my to do list !!!!!!!!! Nige
  18. As it says. With a dmaged spine and new Dual Diaphram clutch I wnat to servo assist it to help me enjoy driving it more and not "Annoying" my spline any more than I need too LOL So, remote servo to clutches DIY vs Red Booster ££££££££££££££££££££££££££s kit. Any help would be super, pics, units, help, etc etc Bring it on asap please all ! Nige
  19. I have always had problems with clutches as I have always run tuned engines all V8s ! I have tried many options - all "Self Learnt" and had mixed results. When I had the John Eales 4.5 V8 in the 90, it ate clutches and in the end I fitted a 6 paddle ceramic clutch. It was "OK".. Gripped pretty well, ...pedal not much different, ...but pig in traffic in stop start as it turned into a On/Off switch lol All was sort of "Acceptable" until the newer 342 BHP daft Torque 5.2V8 went in.. It ATE clutches, tried some "HD" stuff, junk to be honest more marketing and bullsh1te than anything worthwhile ... so again I went for a new paddle and cover... It slipped under being booted, then gripped, but on heavy down changes and booting or heavy load it slipped before it gripped, so I had to relook at what to fit. I did loads of research, and then happened to end to speak to Ben Williams at Clutchfix http://clutch-fix.co.uk/ who will prob forget more about clutches than I will ever know. £rd generation of clutch building staff means they really know their stuff, what I liked is when I phoned and had a chat, instead of selling me what I asked for Ben explained I was wrong, then explained why I should buy that, then made me understand what I needed, which is rather refreshing. What I learnt is that clutches are more complex than you might think, and a big part of my issue was that the paddle was the wrong route, what I needed was a special centre than they make (serioulsy genuinely HD not "BS HD" and ...a Stronger Cover with much more ability to bothe clamp the plate to the flywheel AND hold it there. What I have now is what is called a "Double Diaphram" / "Dual Diaphram" Cover, with some daft clampability around 500 Ft Lbs. "Experts on forums warned of me needing Bopth feet to operate , no feel, undrivable on the road, the wheels would fall off and the moon fall out of the sky....so I diod sort of quiz Ben who sighed and said "J F Fit it" and don't belive the armchair experts. So I have and I did . And he was right, with me currently have treatment for a yoof based spinal injury I managed to beg the use of a ramp ...so up she goes and some considerable time later Out comes Gearbox and transfer box complete We then found lots of other things that needed doing, but eventually clutch was taken off. And, as Ben said the cover was not clamping hard enough due to the power output allowing the plate to flex and slip... If it looks new that because its done about 200 miles only, cover was wrecked, paddle itself is fine and will be sold on ! so, bring out the new ....... Dual Diaphram means that the cover fingers have a second layer on the inside to give extra clamp, the size shape and length of these Ben calculated for my trucks output so its 100% custome made, and to be honest the price was less than I was expecting too Prepare to go Oooooooooooooooooooooo By now I was feeling a bit like : But some considerable hours later : It was all in a ready for a test drive. WOW ! By God it clamps, its never ever been such a positive solid clutch when it bites you know its engaged. Yes, the pedal is a bit harder, it feels totally different, normal pretty much up to the very last push down where a bit more force is required, but you could esily get used to it with a bit of time. However with a damaged spine I need to look at getting it a bit easier, even the unit before could "Annoy" my back, so I am now going to do some research on servo enabling my unit, and will do a Post on that too when done - its the next job. But, as an aside if you just wnated to help this a Bit being a 1985 unit I could upgrade the pedal to the later TCDi over centre unit, but as I need to have a really light clutch I am going to bypass this and go servo, and as cheap as I can do it too !" For info the later pedal looks like this and is a direct replacement bar needing to drill 1 x hole of the 6 to mount properly ... But in the meantime my Custom clutch from Ben and his team has solved the issue 101%, highly recommended and don't listen to armchair experts, its highly driveable as is and serious quality to boot. Need a clutch - speak to these guys, and bear in mind much of the after market "Branded stuff" is actually made in India and brand stuck on, ie lucas - does not exist - same as intermotot - owed by SMP, same part in different boxes, so much of the clutch stuff out there is nasty branded junk. Buy a clutchfix unit and you get quality and proper advice. Next servo research ! Nige
  20. Could you scan or photograph the relevant pages and post up please??
  21. FTC4210 Part 3A in picture. Anyone ...........Know the thread size / pitch please !! Nige
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