Hybrid_From_Hell

I leant a long while back ALWAYS have what recovery gear you want in the truck AT ALL TIMES If its taken in and out the time you are out and you need "X" it will be at home somewhere and you did have time / memory / didn't think you'd need it Rear door has bee side mounted so easy to get into rear so I have in / on my 90 Ground anchor mounted to cage. Kinetic rope 3 x winches... and shackles strops extension winch rope gloves etc Giant Halfords Pro socket set Spare wheel High Lift mounted across the rear of the cage horizonally Tree surgeons Hand saw (lethal thing !) First aid kit, fire extinguisher Then I have 2 x ammo boxes on to of each wheel arch with : F off Big Lump hammer / chisel / normal hammer Ratchet strap Air line for on board air tank Spare Serpentine V8 Belt / pair of trackrods Oil Water Self almalgam tape Hose clips zippy ties Rags and bog rolls

My 5.2V8 Destroyed clutches for a past time, ok, big BHP + Torque, but proves quality vs cheap - even tried a paddle plate clutch - good - but it was horrible on road... after trying near everything ended up with an LOF unit. Buy that if you really want to not worry about doing the job again for a long time Nige

*** Wot he says Wurth we use have lasted rest die and are binned ultra quickly - like weeks !

Speak to Tom at Winchester gears Nige

Of and its big if IF you are keeping the same ratio do the rear axle 1st don’t skimp and get it right leave front save and then do front properly or bear in mind rear does more work than front so you could go preloved arb etc but you have big tyres and they kill drivetrains so get the gearing correct makes a huge difference

We do remake parts for rd03s a the 56s not everything but a fair bit !

Supply chain issues some weeks I cannot see Timken bearings many as I want week later not for 2 months sometimes Ashlockers are often not in stock do to one or two parts not coming into stoxk I now carry prob 4 x the stock I used to pre Covid as I got caught out once not being able to build ANY diffs as I couldn’t source 1 x Timken bearing !! so I even sometimes have stock when ashcroft dont its a mad mad world 🤦‍♂️😂

Lots ! It is no where even close to a replacement for a salisbury - its a bit of a joke tbh ! 110 Rear and P38s have these 110 spit the short nose into bits for all sorts of reasons, here is a summary and upgrades you can consider

Oh yeah …2006 🤦‍♂️😂 mire than a few changes since then and way more suspension mods …. 2006 😂 f me !

Putting my conflict of interest hat on ashlocker pegged casing hd CWP nothing to beat them price / every single part can be bought if needed / parts prices sensible look at the videos I’ve popped in the diff section of the forum over 10,000 out there …. we see all diffs on the autopsy bench if they are broken or damaged most are fubar and scrap Ashlockers are the only ones that can survive

It goes more but its the nearest pic I can find ! I have Genuine bushes - but drilled 8 x 8mm holes through from side to side - makes them behave like worn off road fine on / and MOT Taken the flat washers off the rear of the radius arm, made tooling and had them pressed from flat to like a saucer, allows more flex 17-5" soft Red and white police spec BOTH SIDES - plus home made adaption to get the sides level / drivers up a tad +5" resovior shocks with Home made extended tubular towers Soft / drilled bushes again top and bottom on shocks extended brake lines (LLama 4x4 stainless braided) Drilled down the end of the radius arm then cross drilled the thread part and added grease nipple to aid flex Hope any of the above helps Nige

@Off Road Toad one for your learnt knowledge Steve ??

BP6RES plugs 👍

Prob we found was LR won’t advise / say what some parts needed are bless them 😕🫤😡

Yup, awful designs both, yes late pumas are held in with 1 x pin, some with a circlip but as the entire unit is weak its a matter of place your bets as to what breaks 1st :O( Nige

WOW ! .....good to see you back upright - go easy

Morning Just like axle casings the vast majority of the numbers mean very little, they are either makers numbers (there are to my knowledge 7 different companies who made casings for LR and the main number is just a part number. The casings themselves can vary therefore even from front to rear on the same LR if when it was built different casing Manufactuers units were grabbed. What you have there is one of the last units, it might be a collected unit but can't tell as there is no picture of the "flat" part of the casing..... If the entire flat is flat its non colletted, and if there is a big "V" groove its a later still and colletted.- but weak Crown wheel bolts are FTC5150 HD Flange head so dates 98 / 99 onwards all of these are Long Nose units, 3.54 24 spline. The carrier caps with the hollow roll pin are also one of the worst made, these pins are known to fall out bend or snap off, and in some cases even shear off the cast part holding the pin, this was a cost cutting idea from LR and one of their worst, and even more bonkers is on 110 / 130s - a genuine 3.5 Tonne towing machine ALL short nose diffs have this roll pin !. We get at least 1 - 3 a month of these in for repair / failures. As a diff its one of the weakest LR made for Long Nose units, the "Puma" flange being round is an improvment, but the casing material is lighter, and the cost cutting makes it one of the least desirable ! We do use these but we back engineer the issues to make them stronger - and more like they should have been when made ! Nige

2.88 are inheritabley weak with so many small teet wirh the portal reduction is go HD 3.5 rear and front cut pegged 👍 you could always drop the Rena box ashcroft now remake 1.003 😎

TPS and Loom colours can be a nightmare - hopefully this will sort as a useful help ! Nige TPS nghtmares - Colour Options.pdf

Loving this thread 😎

David With my dyslexia its amazing its spelt that close............ sometimes I type stuff that looks fine to me- .....................then when I re read it even I don't understand what I've written

Morning - sorry missed this ! Torque - 45-48 NM MAX these bolts are 12.9 Grade, however, black self colour are better as plating has an effect on the metal by slightly making them more brittle, so I would always suggest self colour esp if you are torqing higher end. Also use loctite 243.. Now...the unit itself ...... The problem is there are so many tweaks variants modification and versions that these can be a nightmare ! That looks like an earlier one - 16mm cross shaft is a key indicator - if its an 18mm cross shaft then later. We also had One piece forged cross shafts - 18mm and super strong - I have these now remade, and then there were some horrors of a boss which you then screwed in 4 stubs - these often didn't work, weren't as strong, and can "Unwind" , if 16mm not much you can do - if 18mm you can put my one piece in if you so wanted. Screw tyres were both 16 and 18mm ! The way the plates are assmbled is how the "Basic" preload was reached, this was often a matter of swapping plates about using whatever bits were about and assembling then using a torque wrench see what load was reached .. Fronts we looked at circa 25-35 Ft Lbs, and rears well, 45-55 and some for racers set up nearer 70 ! ...an Ashcroft ATB comes in circa +/- 40 ish as a comparison The problem is the higher the clamping Ft Lbs you have the faster the plates will settle down / wear, and you need special LSD oil ....and regular changes. The plates themselves have several versions and thickness (The MD constantly tweaked / changed / modified / drove everyone bonkers) so parts to replace can be a serious issue ! ) One the main flange plate that bolts to the Crown wheel, some (yours has virtually none - some he had made had maybe 20 holes to "Play" with ...) had threaded holes that you can add in small grub screws which you can tweak inboard to press on the Bellevue washer increase clamping, a proper nightmare to do, each grub screw MUST be torqued up like a cylinder head and as you go around them what was torqued up changes so it check re check recheck again and so on - giant nightmare, best to avoid which we did 99% where we could Spares can be a nightmare as plates come in differing designs and thicknesses, and it can take us hours to "Repair" these - thats if we have the parts . Sometimes we actually convert these to a standard 4 pin and remove all the plates - again this is a pain to do, as dependent on the model / variant depends on the packer plates / thrust shims needed, BUT, even as a 16mm screw type 4 pin these are bloody strong, as an 18mm one piece shafted 4 pin - strongest prob even made. Some were built properly - with plates of correct thicknesses assembled to the correct loading, often many were built with a HUGE "Bellvue" washer - a spring loaded washer to allow preload to be played about with easier....all in all these can / were / will be a pain to sort out .. May advise is to clean it all up, re assemble and see what load you have - more than say 35 Ft Lbs and it will be too much for a front. And then report back Nige Now...the unit itself ......

Newbury 4x4 Land Rover autojumble Always good - well was …. This year loads of trade stands selling stuff don’t really need and less proper stands selling stuff owners want gone 😂 And more tractor / vintage / car boot stands making the LR part way smaller prices also were up for buyers and sellers 🤔 Bumped into quite a few who feel same way …..🫤 Bought a few bits and bobs but really could have saved myself the trip and time ….. Anyone else go ? ….. have LRM wounded this event for the future from what is was ? 🙁

The salisbury is a DANA 60 USA Truck axle, massively strong, with the exception of the half shafts as LR cut costs and didn't buy the massive DANA 35 spline drive side gears and half shafts, instead using LR shafts , ... The 110 are then Homolgated to be a true 3.5 Ton tow truck, swapping axles over would mean its now not strictly "Legal" ....you call. The "Short Nose" differential axle / fitted to late 110s is a horrible unit : https://youtu.be/wZBUpViYyGI