Hybrid_From_Hell

Although mine is a (PTO driven) rear Milemarker, its dimensionally similar to mainly electrics, both I and Jon W (M8000) have done a rear winch so that 1) the rear crossmember stays intact useful for towbars etc 2) does not encroach into load area - its under front mounted 3) Rope just clears between top of crossmember and bottom of floor Nige

No unless you have crossplys and Radials mixed on the same axle Nige

Erm......... D ustbin Yellow............. Yellow Dustbin ? = SKIPy Just shame your not australian Christ my coats getting some use at the mo, ....yes,..... ta .....thanks,...... I'm off.... Nige

Right, Having a Sh*t time at work, loads of grief and fed up with it all, then of course we have the forums to cheer us all up at night,.......... light hearted "banter" and all things Land Rover..... er yeah nuff siad So, a post for us all .... Whos going to Old Sodbury on the Saturday 22nd October. ?? AS a Buyer or as a Seller ?? Are we going to have a meet up, if so where ?? What are you after ?? So, for starters I and Jon W are definately going, I'm after a pair of 90 sides (grey would be a real bonus ...and I'd buy any staright Grey bodywork generally for "Stock" ), .....and other than that I'm sure I'll end up with some tutt or other that I can't live without Any more for any more ? Nige

Fridge, Yep, quite right. When I was building my cage I did look at external cages, namely Evans, and Safety dev, I discounted all external cages for one reason or another 1. They tend (DS) to be thinner / not 50 CDS tube. 2. They have not internal diagnal, this makes it VERY weak in a roll over and its messy complex to fit one, with an INTERNAL CAge the diags are easy and neat. 3. 90s with full external cgaes also IMHO can look as tho the scaffolders have moved in.... (I'll get flamed for that one ) 4. They also can be extremely heavy (now, stop laughing you lot - I KNOW what going through you minds righ now stop it ) 5. Cost...... Horrendous, and PITA to fit. 6. They are often not close fitting to the bodywork, and can get branches etc jammed in them but they do and can offer massive protection... In the end due to 1 2 3 and 6 (note you lot 4 was left out ) I built my own internal cage system double cross etc and external front.... But, roof and side damge was then highly liklely, in fact the roof has a HUGE dent and a HUGE Tear in it already Ho hum.... As with all things its compromise and choice, there is no "Best" just more Difference"... External do by their nature offer far more protection, somehow I think this option is not on TCs list of possibilities now he has his internal one ! BUT The other possiblity would be say 25 wall tube, made to fit OVER the roof top, say like a shaped and fitted roof rack, where the rack followed the absolute shape of the roof, then connected via plates and bolts to the internal cage hoops. This would give the roof and edges a reall Steel Hair net" type of protection, Again, the weight will all be at the top of the 90, it must affect COG to some degree, but its and idea, it would also be relatively easy and cheap to make, just a thought... Nige

Oh Gawd Quick.................... [loud hailer on] Step away from the chequer plate TC [/hailer off] Its a problem the roof does take some brunt off road, I think Wills is a good route, I have thought a smaller light duty (yes, I know rare to see words like this from me ) version of the saftey devices external cage styley) so to more of a 'frame' to keep damage off than a cage which you have inside.... It would ad weight... I thought about this route when I went for the (now) current toy, decided frankly that roofs are VVV cheap, so I'll live with the damage on the roof, and when it gets too bad I'll just replace the roof, they are all white which also helps, true ribbed roofs are a load cheaper than ribbless (Oooer), but the options for protection are limited.... The other thing is that the roof "Curve" is an odd one, Jon W and I fiddled with cardboard and I played with some serious rolling kit before I found out that its not a "True Curve" etc....odd, but hey what do you expect from land Rover Nige

Title change..........Hmmmmmm let me think.... How about 'LAND ROVER ENTHUSIASTS' ......... could be shortened to LRE Oh my coat, again , how kind thanyou....... Nige

depressing is the word ...not confusing that is springing to mind Frankly I frequent the forum because of the people and any help I can give and sometimes also get, NOT for what the forums are now ..........and have been for a while........... FWIW I think Fi absolutely hit the nail on the head. I have not posted on the old LRE since gawd knows what went on, and am staying away from it, I get more than enough grief at work. I am however worried that this feeling of mistrust, lies, speculation, and general pi%%edoffness is moving into here. Life is too short, and the members deserve far better treatment IMHO, and I am more than a lot bored with it all Nige

Er With respect, If this forum is "Ours" how can "We" the members have sacked Les Henson then ? Nige

Oi ! I heard that GHrumble grumble Nige

Yep, You should always have an absolute minimum of 6 TIGHT rolls on the winch drum before any serious winching... What happended on both ocassiions was we were rigging up, I had the entire rope off the drum PLUS a 80 foot extension, and 2 snatch blocks, we needed all the slack we could get to rig it all... The sheer weioght of all the rope snatch blocks and jiggling was enough to pull out the eye, hence the probs. I have been in this sort of situation many times, once its rigged you'll prob get more like x10 spools + on the drum as the slack is taken up - here all the rigging was held in place by a battery terminal crimped and then a 8mm bolt to the drum... This leaves a bolt head sticking up and its never a neat spool over it.... Shoving it through the hole has been the issue, a knott on the other end is not really needed as the grub screw will hold it well in place, duct tape is an idea, but is has to have a better fix than that....I have also seen Plasma that has been quickly respooled back on the drum slide around when then used in anger, ie it might have 100 loopps on the drum, but none are tight, and then theres a risk the load fixing is the part that takes up the strain, that goes "Ping" and all the plasma rotates on the drum ! Hence why I have done this simple mod.... I will however have my spare with a battery terminal crimped on - for ease of change in the feild ! I just hope I don't really need it

Steve, Just stunned frankly ..................... You missed the opportunity to comment on the "Thin and Thinner 'Repair sections' steel plate 2 of " below the vice ....and next to the shoes.................... Your slipping FFS Nige

I've used a jigsaw to cut 6mm steel (yes, I know a "Repair section ) Its best to give it short 'bursts' and use a fine balde and cutting fluid, Oh and you'll be F deaf too at the end of it, and the vibration (oooer ) will make you hands go numb.... Basically a great days fun Nige

er.... Les, very interesting, but I meant Mr Lesmond BrockenhurstkettleTdi himselfs engine .... But intersting post of your LR woes too ! Nige

Superb .... I am not alone...... Nige

I used to have 11mm wire on the front "Thing" winch.... Then I got into this "Purple string" stuff, (Plasma 12), and I am a convert, yet at the last Slindon winch challenge I managed to pull the rope off the drum on 2 occasions..... Plasma is normally supplied with a chunky battery terminal crimped on I've never thought this was 100% the best route, ........and on rope breakage No 1 the winch was being used to pull hard sideways,.................. I think the rope pulled across the drum and sheared the top of the retaining bolt off, ......................breakage No 2 was just the crimp not taking virtually any strain at all when we where freespoolomg and had a huge amount of rigging pulling at the last turns on the drum - was not winching and it just came out...Grrr.... Basically I have always thought this route of fixing 'a bit of a bodge', and so to this post. On my winch, and many others there is a purpose made hole right through the drum, with a grub screw mounting, on mine the plasma is 13mm, the hole 11mm...Hmmmm.. Plasma is also very flexible, and a nightmare to cut quickly and neatly....it frays, and trying to shove a soft flexible rop into a long winch drum fixing hole is...er next to impossible, esp when the cable is biger OD than the winch Hole ID So this post is how I have worked out a simple route to "Fuse Taper" your Plasma so it easily goes through the drum winch mounting hole and is fixed better.... Clamp Plasma end in vice, leave say 2 foot out... Get a tube of superglue, .........and do wear rubbers gloves for this one ! Pull up a strand to form a "Arch" about 3 inches from the end of the rope Place Superglue hard up inside the rope to "Stick" the end thats about to be cut in place, .... then hold the rope, and the end (now out) and with sharp knife cut AWAY from you which pulls the strand towards the knife and also has the effect of shortening it too, when its cut its neat the glue holds it in place, .............no strands making a real mess ... Heres the rope with a few now removed : Then with rubber gloves on squeze glue over the remaining ends and the thinner rope strands left and work with gloves quickly to make it a fused tpaered end.... And then it looks like this : This also makes it stiffer, now it just drops through the winch mounting hole, pop in a grub screw and job done, not an in the field job for sure but I think a better fitting..... Maybe one for the archives ? Hope its useful............. Nige

With all the exitement thats been going on... I suddenly remembered an old and ongoing Post .... So......... Spill the beans then Lesmond, whats : happened... happening... going to happen.... might of happended but didn't... or did happen and you just haven't told us on the Jolly Saga of the "TDi Engine that thought it was a Kettle" ? Nige

Ali, Nice to see your really trying hard to endear yourself to your new country folk Nige

Yikes ! Not often that the test sheet I sent you fails, You did all the tests and everything checked out ? I have some other stuff I'll dig out, but just update as to position now and above ??? Nige PS where do you live ?? anywhere near me (Guildford) ?

T Cut and Tears ? Loads....but some absolute basics............... 1st get a decent recovery point ......front and rear, ....and carry basic tools and spares 2nd a decent KERR rope and tested shcakles. 3rd Decent off road tyres (thats an arguement as to which and why in itself !) Then the worlds your osyter... Winches lifts, etc etc Nige

and I can't even rely on you for for that even - as your Bl**dy emigrating Nige PS Dave, ta, its in the thought bank, I will be doing SOMETHING !

Bill, I think someone said to me that these were limited supply, esp the other sizes, ie what your after ?...phone and check ? I also had the "Tyre 2 step" as to what to go for, in the end I went for 34x10.50x16 Simex Jungle trekers, and am pleased, they are NOT as ultimately grippy as the Extremes, but in some circumstances that can be an advantage ! Don't dismiss JTs completely ! Nige

Tony, Although I looked and they weren't quite what I needed at the time, the Devon 4x4 Stainles Ones are Lovely... ? Nige

Ali, Yes I know he has, but I would never get away with this with SWMBO, !! Nige

"Some Long Ramps"... Jeeez, what the heck do these look like, can't see any 90 (yes I know ESP MINE yeah yeah yeah), making it up 2x scaffold boards ?? Any detail ? Nige