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Disty

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Everything posted by Disty

  1. Can one even buy snow chains big enough for a defender? I'm running 285/75R16 and I had thought it wouldn't be possible? I'm keen too if it's possible- M+S rating seems to mean very little in the real world..
  2. Hmm carp it could well be. The steering box is leaking quite alot at the moment... I'll have a look at the UJ too. Am I right in thinking there's just one UJ?
  3. Nobody? Seems to be getting worse, now with screeching noises as I steer anti-clockwise
  4. I went for the paddocks ones (non-galv) and they are fine (I generally avoid paddocks otherwise). If you intend to get them bashed up then I'd just go for the cheapest option!
  5. I ran mine with no fan all summer. It hasn't gone bang yet, and since winter is fast approaching I doubt I'll be putting it back on any time soon.
  6. Apologies for reviving this thread. I recently removed the damaged ignition from the steering barrel. I drove the vehicle last night with no ignition, and the steering has become VERY heavy. I know that my steering box leaks, but this has only happened since the ignition incident. Are there any bearings/joints that could have been damaged when I drove the vehicle home with the broken ignition barrel?
  7. Are you sure you're locking them up against each other tight enough? Do you also have the tab washer bent over the nuts?
  8. I did this on the back due to almost exactly the same issue, snapped captive bolt. I found that NO oil came out, although others said it would. The seal stayed in place for me so I didn't replace it with the new kit. I managed to get the kit for £24.00 from RST on eBay which I thought very reasonable. Probably britpart though! You may neeed an extension bar to get the big central nut off!
  9. I can't tell any difference between front and back, mostly becuase I can't get the brakes to lock up at all when moving. I have to push VERY hard to make it stop in a tight spot, which makes me very nervous- hence wanting to fix it! It just feels like there is no assistance at all, so I suspect the servo/pump primarily, but got a master cylinder for cheap so thought I should renew the whole system. Might leave the brake bias valve then by the sounds of it!
  10. Maybe true with a stock vehicle, but even then I find it hard to believe. They seem to have forgotten that with a few modifications, their older vehicles soon surpass what the new ones can do! Not enjoying the new look!
  11. Hmm so it was always there.. Could this be the culprit in performance?
  12. Discs all round- the smaller ones on the back, bigger ones on the front. By the way vehicle is late 1995.
  13. My defender 300tdi, 90, has terrible braking. I'm in the midst of renewing the whole system. Before I owned it the previous owner replaced the brake calipers. I have since re-bled the system and completely renewed the brake pipes etc. I am now replacing master cyclinder and servo, and then finally the pump. The system has a brake bias valve which I had left in when renewing the system, but am wondering if this is necessary? Was this added or is it part of the original system?
  14. I doubt camskill will have these. I think the idea has been put to bed by a) the price (>£300 per corner) and b) the speed limitation! I still like the alloys though. I might try and get some. I think if I can find some decent 18" off road tyres to fit they should look good.
  15. Steve, thanks. It looks like they are rated to 56mph- so driveable around town, just not motorways. What do you mean by "compliant sidewalls"? I guess they will last forever though? Might keep them as runabout tyres/show-off tyres. My current shoes are cooper STT- I find they wear very quickly.
  16. ah hah! Brilliant. Are they tyres really only £43 as that site suggests? Surely that can't be right? There are only two sizes that fit 18" rims- 325/70 or 365/70. I'm guessing these are the slimmer of the two? I can see why they might be poor on side slopes!
  17. I had to remove my rear flange due to a snapped prop bolt, and my seal/oil have remained intact, so I am not going to touch them! Front one should be easier as no hand brake etc. My bolt finally gave way with my whole body weight on it. My body wasn't a big fan though.
  18. Steve, Thanks for the link- I can't believe how cheap they are! They must be road legal according to the blurb on the PDF: Disco alloys.. I'll have a look.
  19. Looks like a good bit of kit. Looks better than what you would have ended up with from paddocks et al!
  20. Not sure if this is the right section for this to go in, but couldn't see a better one! I have identified the tyres on the BLUE defender (middle) in the following picture to be a set of Continental's MPT70E tyres. I absolutely love the look of them, dumpster style but more refined! Does anybody know where I can get these from? Also, what are the alloys that these tyres are shod on? I can't find any that are like that- they're not quite boost alloys. Here's the pic. It's the MIDDLE one! (Pic is from mudstuff.co.uk, who don't sell wheels/tyres!)
  21. I had this exact problem except I think my bolt heads were to blame. I used just a puny blowtorch to heat up the axle area immediately surrounding the stuck bolt, and then used a pair of mole grips. I'm not sure you have the room for the mole grips, but if you do get the extractor out, you could try this before you stick the next one in!? Obviously somebody has already mentioned oxy acetylene.. their idea probably makes more sense..
  22. Got it- thanks for the help! It took both feet under the car, and I landed hard when it finally went!
  23. Just so it's completely obvious what I'm talking about and why it needs fixing, see the picture! Both bolts are pretty messed up- but especially that washer! The bolt above it has been messed up by the steering guard, which didn't fit properly because of the winch bumper.
  24. That's not a bad idea Ray. I have lost the small screw that holds it on though, so it would be holding the flange on the four loose propshaft bolts- which is probably okay?
  25. Wizard, I'd recommend you have a look at this post for an overview of steering wobble. If I were you, I'd get somebody to "dry steer" from side to side with the steering, while you look at the front axle. This will allow you to spot any play in the panhard rod and general steering assembly. Also, what have you changed recently? Does your PAS box leak? Does nobody have any idea about this washer/bolt?
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