boiler man

dont worry about trying to fit rear crossmember in this position. buy a length of 50 x 20 x 4mm channel rodding from a local steel supplier. I have replaced my discos cross members with this channel rodding and it really is much more solid than the original when welded into place to replace the old cross member. I drilled and bolted the ends as well for good measure.

Be careful putting alloy parts in the dishie!! i did that with a suzuki GSXR cylinder head, with a pair of ABU ct rocket beachcasting reels for good measure.(she who must be obeyed was out for afternoon!) Shiny!! oh carp! now gone fluffy! dishwasher salt dont like alloy! dont know HOW i'm going to clean my freestyles now!

Hope you put the DOC sticker in a nice prominent place, like stuck to the side of your sedimenter!! Heh heh! Welcome, my pretty......! this is the best place you'll ever find to sort your truck!! mark

i had a pajero once ( IM SORRY!! i will repent!!) and number one piston was smacking the cylinder head,dont know why cos i scrapped it after an astronomical quote to repair, only just 'kissing it' apparently, but sounded JUST like a 410 shotgun!

thanks for reply. im concerned because every other vehicle ive driven, when you apply the brakes they will actuate, usually proportionately to the amount of pressure you are applying,and the pedal will sink to a point. with my disco, you start to apply the brakes, and they will almost instantly bite, very fiercely, then the pedal will sink to the floor, literally flat to the deck and touching it. the next brake application will require a pump of pedal first. id like to add that im currently renovating and off road modifying the vehicle, and my brake tests are being done in a farmyard, with no risk of harm to anyone.( unless you happen to be a chicken called minnie!) mark

Clive is right! both my previous 300tdi's has dash lift, and evostic with screws just looks SOOO S**T!! Trust me, been there done that wished i hadnt! mark (aka bodger badger)

The brakes on my 300tdi disco are very harsh, will BANG on hard , but then the brake pedal sinks very slowly to the floor. ive tried changing master cylinder, no difference, renewed copper pipes and fitted goodridge hoses and i new rear caliper. all other calipers serviced. there are no apparent leaks of fluid. help!!! thanks guys

I LOVE A HAPPY ENDING!! -sniff!- (gonna sneak out and take a peek at my woodruff key tomoz!! simular symptoms)

white smoke when hot? sounds very head gasket to me. will produce steam through exhaust when hot. when engine is cold, take a look in the radiator expansion tank. loss of coolant? oil in antifreeze? does the coolant swell up dramatically when the engine is revved a little on the throttle? had same problem with couple of my vehicles over the years, was always blown head gasket. mark

Its got to be gas shocks! the build quality and damping performance is far superior to oil shocks. I changed mine a couple of weeks ago and made a huge difference to my '97 300 tdi. I opted for a 50mm lift, to accomodate bigger mud tyres. I live on a farm, so need as much clearance as poss, and want to keep my options open for when the winter gets bad again and snows us in. there isnt a huge difference in price, i was very pleasantly suprised when i bought my white pro-comp gas shocks from Mailorder 4x4's factory shop near Ivybridge,Plymouth.With the blue bearmach springs, the wheelarches look the buisness. I have 50mm over front shocks and springs, with std length rear HD springs on 50mm lifter spacers with 50mm over rear gas shocks. reasoning for this is that i want to retain stiff support at rear for towing our fishing boat and trailers. mark

oH YEAH! SERIES 2! DUH! GOTCHYA! Too much time spent working, stopping off to play rebuild-the-rusty-disco on the way home from work and reading the forum!! LoL! I'm onto BETSY MK2 now! burnt out BETSY mk1 cutting out the grot that was craftilly hiding behind my nearside wing! who'd have belived it?? stealth grot! haha!

the front mounts will have access behind radiator grille panel to fit socket on them. again, bolt drops down into new mounting kit, spacer tube washer fits up from beneath.

hi . renewed most of my body mounts recently on MAJOR disco renovation project. you dont have to lift body to fit mounting rubbers and bolts. the kit will comprise of, starting at the base of each mount, spacer tube fixed to base washer, rubber disc with raised centre,a second rubber disc with raised part facing downwards (against lower rubbers raised centre-this is where the sill mount is sandwiched) and large flat washer on top. lift up your carpets and remove the plastic plugs in the steel floor. the mount bolts are under these plugs and will accept 14mm socket. now the bad news. they will be rusted solid. if you can get an angle grinder at the bolt heads, cut them off, or centre drill the heads and go up in drill sizes until the heads are drilled off. spray releasing oil and wait. then you may be able to beat rhe bolts downwards and out, releasing old mounts. mine were so rusted in, i had to disc cut the mounts in half, but this is very difficult. i had cut off my rusted sills to fit 100mmx50mm 4mm steel box section sills which aided access, and made new sill mounting points from 70mmx70mm x4mm steel box section cut diagonally. best of british fella!!