marysboy

hi all, i want to remove the crankshaft bolt (starting handle dog) from my 2.25 diesel (3 bearing engine). what size socket do i need and where would i get one? from the parts book I see it is part 503665. and an internet search reveals the following link: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/965/503665-CRANKSHAFT-STARTING-DOG.html?search=503665&page=1 this seemingly gives a size of 1&21/32" AF but that sounds a little unlikely to me. thanks all, ian. PS ... yes this *is* another capstan winch query...

Thanks! There's a lot missing from the series version but I think i can make do with the information in the later version. Can't wait to get it working!

I second that - one lamp on right hand side only but lights up both sides. Great for reversing onto drive, greenlaning, pcinics, unloading, whatever. A good spread to both sides but alos quite a throw (imagine one headlight and you're there). I got mine from Bolt On Bits for about a tenner but needs a bulb too (few quid). They have an ebay 'shop' but I'd just ring them up and talk. http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/boltonbits/

On a similar note, I'm looking for a manual for my capstan (Superwinch / Fairey / FWL version for Series III landy). Can't seem to find one on the web - does anyone here have one of know where to get one? Cheers all, Ian.

Oooh they look good, please tell more!

carlosbeldia --> does this link help? everyone else --> what year did the colour change from duck egg blue to primer red? ian.

carlosbeldia --> does this link help? everyone else --> what year did the colour change from duck egg blue to primer red? ian.

looks good you don't need the bonnet scoops

worth thinking about the colour - a darker colour on top might make the motor appear top-heavy. mine was limestone, the standard series 3 roof colour.

sounds just great, i did mine with a short pile gloss roller and i'm really pleased with it. i just did the roof cos it was quite poor. link to my thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=55365&view=findpost&p=499763 PM me if you want more details. ian.

Thanks, I'll try the washing up liquid and a coathanger Ian.

Julian, I'd say the condition of my springs was poor. I'm not sure they're even the correct type as they have a funny thick leaf and a funny turn-back leaf. Also they don't match left and right! So I'm afraid it's probably not very useful to use my motor as an example Ian.

One fitted and waxed roof. A bird had managed to poop on it already...

Thanks will try get a pic of the roof tonight after it's waxed... Ian.

Further update - looks like I've just about finished with my limestone repaint. I was really pleased with the wheels. Got them fitted last weekend and gave the hubs a coat of Hammerite smooth black from an aerosol and then blacked the tyres too (see pics). Not so lucky with the hard-top though, there was something wrong with the compressor or spray gun (borrowed from a friend, who bought it cheap...). Quick call to Paintman last weekend who advised ditching the sprayer for some fine gloss rollers which he supplied. Got the final coat on this weekend and fitted the hard-top again. Looks good but rather funny on the eye after a month or two of topless motoring! Next steps are refit the sealing bead on the rear windows (see separate thread) and wax the whole lot. Then going to line the inside of the roof, fit an interior lamp, sort the steering. Might then consider a full motor respray in the summer.... Ian.

Okay, managed to get the windows in at the weekend. Well, almost - after fitting the main seal and glass, I couldn't then get the smaller filler strip in. Has anyone any suggestions? Cheers, Ian.

You're certainly not the only one - see here and sign the petition clicky link Ian.

Thanks!

It looked quite a lot like this clicky link but it's quite expensive

Good info, thanks

Hi all. I'm repainting my hard top at the moment. I took out the rear quarterlights (the ones on the back panel either side of the rear door) and the rubber seals were absolutely shot and fell to pieces. I can't now find the sealing strip for sale anywhere! Nearest I've got is this: clicky link Anybody got any ideas? The seal I took out was in two pieces - the main seal and then a second smaller sealing bead that pushed into it. Thanks all, Ian.

Okay - a quick phone call and Paintman gave me the following advice: 1 litre should be fine 5 - 10% thinner for spraying 800 grade wet & dry (used wet) one coat primer, two coats topcoat (use etch if aluminium). I sent cheque off the following day and the paint arrived back on the next day - can't beat service like that. He doesn't seem to respond to emails though so deffo give him a ring I think. Spent all weekend on the roof and wheels - they're currently in my garage looking good in white primer. Tip: get the tyres taken off your rims cos masking them off is a real pain!

Well I've had my 82deg thermostat in for a couple of months now. Rather than never reaching operating temperature, the engine now heats up in 5 minutes. The heater blows warm air (shock!) and the engine is more lively. The temperature sits just below the red line all the time - will see how summer affects that! Ian.

Hi all, I'm hoping to repaint my hard top and wheels soon for my short wheelbase series three. This will be my first foray into automotive painting. I've gathered I'll need 'Limestone' paint and I'm borrowing a compressor and spray gun. How much paint will I need? Will a 1 litre tin suffice? I won't need to paint much of the inside of the hardtop as I'm going to line it with foam/fabric. But I would like to paint both sides of all the wheels (five). I gather I'll need thinner for the spray gun - how much of that? Also any tips on which sandpaper grades to use? I want to flatten down the current paint, add some etch to the (small) bare patches of metal and then I'm hoping a coat of undercoat and one of top will do. I've seen Brighton Autopaintsand Bill the Paintmanrecommended - any thoughts on these? Thanks all, Ian.