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Davewillb

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About Davewillb

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    Old Hand

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    davebrodie2004@yahoo.co.uk

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  • Location
    Central Norfolk - NR9

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  1. That's a fair point and thanks - I'm looking at various pots to improve the mechanical strength and location of the potentiometer. Dave
  2. That's a good point for sure. On the waterproofing issue I've used a decent quality potentiometer and I think it will be ok in normal circumstances (time will tell ) but automotive grade items are probably a better option for sure. Interestingly, I didn't know my TPS was open circuit until I tried to calibrate MS to it, I remember checking it a few years ago and it seemed to be working then so when it failed I don't know... Dave
  3. I'm going to take the original TPS apart when I have a minute to see if I could use the stub shaft from it to link into a replacement potentiometer in the original position. Think you are100% right FF about it not needing to be a 5k potentiometer, its just working as a potential divider so prob best not to go lower than 5k, but 10k worked fine for my MS install as well, it just needs the increasing voltage against ground as the pedal goes down I think.
  4. Hi, I came up with this (bodge) while I was fitting Megasquirt and found my TPS was open circuit, working replacements seemed hard to find and the other options beyond my pocket so I came up with what you see in the picture. Basically its a 5K ohms linear potentiometer mounted on a bracket I bent up which is bolted to the original bracketry holding the throttle spindle. I 'extended' the end of the throttle spindle slightly with a piece of 6mm mild steel rod and a bit of careful work with a mig (off the plenum!!). This then goes to a flexible shaft coupler which takes a 6mm shaft in and fits the 6mm shaft on the potentiometer and also allows a bit of movement if things aren't perfectly aligned. After that it was just a case of calibrating the settings for TPS in Megasquirt, I dont see why this wouldn't work with the original 14CUX system, it would just need a bit of work with a multi-meter to get the potentiometer in the correct position for closed throttle, the colour coding of the TPS connector info is out there - but I haven't tried this on a 14CUX. Oh, just remembered, with my arrangement the shaped pipe rubber pipe that goes from the plenum inlet to the rear of the plenum (fuel pressure regulator is it, not sure) was too tight across the back of the potentiometer so I swapped it for a bit of ordinary hose to gain some space. Hope this helps someone, I don't know how long it will last, I don't see why it shouldn't as there is no vacuum to suck muck in to it with it mounted like this, but time will tell. its a cheap solution anyway, as it happens I had the bits available, but Ebay is your friend if not and a fiver should do it and get you running. I did find that I could get quite a good fixing on the end of the original throttle shaft with the flexible coupling without extending the shaft by taking off the end clip, but I was 100% convinced it would stay on indefinitely - it was like that for a few days without a problem though. I am going to mod my setup when I get a minute, it needs a plug and socket fitted and some sort of strain relief on the cable as it leaves the potentiometer. Dave
  5. Just to confirm that a Defender TD5 clutch master cylinder works fine with a Discovery V8 R380 slave cylinder - and just for reference for anyone who has issues putting a manual R380 gearbox behind a 3.9V8 in a 90. Watch out for the length of the bellhousing, the LT77 V8 bellhousing is longer than the R380 V8 bellhousing, it all bolts up but the gearbox main shaft doesn't engage in the clutch plate. Also, watch out for the length of the clutch slave cylinder push rod, it should be about 11cm long, not 7 or 8. Thanks for the help with this guys, much appreciated.
  6. Much appreciated - I'll update here when I've got it plumbed up for other people's benefit. Dave
  7. .....sorry but I'm confused (not unusual ) I think I'm ok with the slave but its the master I'm struggling with, I've seen it said that a TD5 master cylinder will work but others saying it wont - I'm guessing it depends what slave they had. Am I right to think that a Disco master wont fit because of the different pedal box? thanks, Dave
  8. Hi, Would be very grateful for confirmation on what a suitable part number would be for a Clutch Master Cylinder, I'm converting my 90 from auto to manual, it uses a Discovery 3.9 V8 with gearbox. I'm using FTC5072 for the slave which is the Disco part (I believe) but cant use the Disco master due to the different mounting in the pedal assembly. thanks, Dave
  9. Ok, to help anyone else who hits this problem - its the bellhousing - please see:- - LT77 and R380 bell housings are not the same......
  10. I took the slave cylinder off this morning - made no difference and the push rod was free to move. Also removed the PTO cover and no movement at that end so it has to be an issue with the clutch plate / cover? Gearbox back out tomorrow. Dave
  11. Thanks for the reply, I'll compare the new release bearing tomorrow with the old one that came out of the original setup .I know the old one wasn't plastic and the new one was. I'm wondering as well about the slave cylinder push-rod, if that was too long it would have the same effect wouldn't it. Think I'll unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and see what happens before I take the gbox out tomorrow - deep joy. Cheers, Dave
  12. Hi, Thanks for reading this:- I'm swapping my 90 from automatic to manual, it did have an auto with 3.9 V8 (originally from a Disco) - I've kept the 3.9 in place, fitted a 3.9 manual flywheel, new clutch and pressure plate, new slave, new master, recon clutch pedal with the fancy helper springs from a TD5, recon gearbox from Ashcroft (still a Disco box so sorting the seatbox to allow for gear levers) the transfer box from the original auto box. Having finally got this all together and today was the big day and................no working clutch, as in there is no drive at all, with engine running I can do what I like with the gear stick. Its been a long day and I've only done a few jobs with clutches and that was a few years ago now - but isn't the default clutch engaged until you depress the clutch pedal, mine seems to think the clutch is down all the time. Anyone any thoughts on what I've done wrong please / what I should be looking for when I take the gearbox out again? If I take the rear PTO cover off again I can check for drive up to the transfer box I guess. My only other clue is the clutch pedal feels light, but I haven't had one with helper springs before so......? it did bleed ok...I think. Time for a cold beer. Dave
  13. Davewillb

    MERRY CHRISTMAS

    This is a great forum, thanks everyone and Happy Christmas one and all.
  14. Davewillb

    Freelander I - who to take it to in Norfolk

    Just to finish this one off, the Freelander came back all sorted as promised and bang on the price quoted - great service, we are well pleased and recommend these people.
  15. Davewillb

    Eberspacher Airtronic install location

    Mine is installed under the drivers seat with the outlet coming out via the cubby box, I'm happy with how that works, my second battery is in the original battery compartment as there was enough room there with a bit of fiddling about. Given the choice I think I'd rather have the battery and the heater reasonably well separated, but if you are extending the under seat box you can prob manage that.
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