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About Davewillb

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    Central Norfolk - NR9

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  1. The 3.9 will probably have the pipework for an oil cooler if it came from a Disco or similar. This can be a bit of a fiddle to sort out depending on what radiator you use as the thread guage on the pipework may not match (although it may look similar) - I blanked the external feeds from the oil pump off eventually which was fine for UK use temp wise. Good luck with the conversion, it certainly makes a fun vehicle - very thirsty though. I Megasquirted mine which might have helped a little with economy but made a massive difference to reliability and probably power.
  2. Thanks for the fuel pump warning, maybe I should buy a spare now, that should keep the original running until I've lost the spare one! I sort of agree about LPG and I have had a V8 with it, with the tank capacity I had I was only getting about 150 miles range though so still used quite a lot of petrol - but I know it works well for some.
  3. Cheers. Yep agreed, I wouldn't have had the same problems with my 300tdi when I had it - Megasquirt is an ECU that I get on well with, trouble is I don't get on so well with the cost of the petrol! Dave
  4. Just fitted new contacts to the solenoid of the starter I replaced - I contact looked very good still but the other was very worn:-
  5. Cheers, I'm planning to do my solenoid when I get a little free time. I'm trying to learn a lesson from this and try the simple things first and not jump to conclusions. This is my first TD5 so I'm in the steep bit of the learning curve😀
  6. Today I swapped out the starter for a brand new DENSO unit, yep I really spashed the cash for a quick fix but I'm moving house very soon and I could really do without the Disco failing to start on the big day - plus I'm going to refurb the solenoid in the original starter which should give me a good spare which is always a handy thing to have. Getting the starter off wasn't as easy as I'd hoped - I managed to round off one of the 13mm headed studs, despite being very carefull, but it was very tight. I had a well fitting socket and I'd even heated the stud first, suspecting it had threadlock on it (which it turned out it had). In the end I had to weld a nut over the head and that did it - I was lucky it was the botton one of the three which is accessible with the welder!
  7. Grabbed 10 mins away from granddaughter minding and sure enough I have 12V on the starter solenoid when ignition is turned to crank but no cranking....Doh!! A swift wack with the hammer to the solenoid and voila! she starts. I guess there is a lesson to be learned here about jumping to immobiliser conclusions - but when I first had a non start a few weeks back it started as soon as I turned of the immobiliser with the Nanocom! Coincidence??
  8. Well ....sadly I can partly answer my own question. This morning I went to it, turned the key, it started to crank and then almost immediately stopped cranking and then wouldn't crank again. Time to investigate if 12V is on the starter solenoid when trying to crank but grandaughter is here for the day.
  9. Hi, Can any one tell me please if I've possibly got this right: With a Nanocom a couple of months ago I turned off the immobiliser on my 2001 pre facelift TD5 Discovery. I did this becuase it refused to start one day and was immobilised, despite me having unlocked it. I didn't try anything else such as the EKA (which I do know) as just turning the immobiliser off with the Nanocom fixed the problem at that time 🙂 So, both keys work, all doors lock on the fobs and unlock ok, no problems for several weeks, then after a visit to a local garage when the battery may or may not have been disconnected it was fine that day, but the next morning it started normally but then stalled after after about a minute and wouldn't restart, fuel pump wasn't running but it would crank. I left it standing in the drive as I had to be somewhere, when I got back 2hrs later it wouldn't then crank - battery was ok etc. I checked with Nanocom and it was still set at Immobiliser off. No faults found. Hmmm - so my theory is the ECU talks to the BCU which in turn then talks to the intelligent fuse panel under the steering wheel, Nanocom can talk to the ECU and the BCU when I go to that section, the immobiliser is off but it won't crank - so my theory is that its probably the the intelligent fusebox playing up (plus the drivers footwell is damp). At this point after a lot of messing about finding the BCU behind the glovebox and removing and refiting the fuse panel (which seemed to be dry) and 24hrs later it suddenly decided to start - by which time I'd about given up! Its been starting ok again since then for a couple of days. So, my theory is that its the fuse panel playing up simulating an immobiliser on situation and I've just bought and fitted an identical fuse panel, left it with the ignition on for 5 mins to sync and the old girl fired up first time - I took the back off the original panel hoping to find water damage / corrosion - all I could see was faint signs of water drying on the vertical circuit board with the processor on it. Any thoughts please from anyone who has been down this road - what are the chances I've got it first try? changing the BCU seems a bit more of a risk with the problems with milage meeding to be less than my car - if thats correct? If it does it again I will check to see if the starter solenoid is getting 12v on crank, didn't think of this when it wouldn't start for some reason - obsessing with the BCU! Sorry for the long wordy post. Cheers, Dave
  10. My front fogs only work when the engine is started,l. From memory I had the same symptoms as you. I haven't checked if this is normal - like you I have a replacement steel bumper with LED's. Dave
  11. That's a fair point and thanks - I'm looking at various pots to improve the mechanical strength and location of the potentiometer. Dave
  12. That's a good point for sure. On the waterproofing issue I've used a decent quality potentiometer and I think it will be ok in normal circumstances (time will tell ) but automotive grade items are probably a better option for sure. Interestingly, I didn't know my TPS was open circuit until I tried to calibrate MS to it, I remember checking it a few years ago and it seemed to be working then so when it failed I don't know... Dave
  13. I'm going to take the original TPS apart when I have a minute to see if I could use the stub shaft from it to link into a replacement potentiometer in the original position. Think you are100% right FF about it not needing to be a 5k potentiometer, its just working as a potential divider so prob best not to go lower than 5k, but 10k worked fine for my MS install as well, it just needs the increasing voltage against ground as the pedal goes down I think.
  14. Hi, I came up with this (bodge) while I was fitting Megasquirt and found my TPS was open circuit, working replacements seemed hard to find and the other options beyond my pocket so I came up with what you see in the picture. Basically its a 5K ohms linear potentiometer mounted on a bracket I bent up which is bolted to the original bracketry holding the throttle spindle. I 'extended' the end of the throttle spindle slightly with a piece of 6mm mild steel rod and a bit of careful work with a mig (off the plenum!!). This then goes to a flexible shaft coupler which takes a 6mm shaft in and fits the 6mm shaft on the potentiometer and also allows a bit of movement if things aren't perfectly aligned. After that it was just a case of calibrating the settings for TPS in Megasquirt, I dont see why this wouldn't work with the original 14CUX system, it would just need a bit of work with a multi-meter to get the potentiometer in the correct position for closed throttle, the colour coding of the TPS connector info is out there - but I haven't tried this on a 14CUX. Oh, just remembered, with my arrangement the shaped pipe rubber pipe that goes from the plenum inlet to the rear of the plenum (fuel pressure regulator is it, not sure) was too tight across the back of the potentiometer so I swapped it for a bit of ordinary hose to gain some space. Hope this helps someone, I don't know how long it will last, I don't see why it shouldn't as there is no vacuum to suck muck in to it with it mounted like this, but time will tell. its a cheap solution anyway, as it happens I had the bits available, but Ebay is your friend if not and a fiver should do it and get you running. I did find that I could get quite a good fixing on the end of the original throttle shaft with the flexible coupling without extending the shaft by taking off the end clip, but I was 100% convinced it would stay on indefinitely - it was like that for a few days without a problem though. I am going to mod my setup when I get a minute, it needs a plug and socket fitted and some sort of strain relief on the cable as it leaves the potentiometer. Dave
  15. Just to confirm that a Defender TD5 clutch master cylinder works fine with a Discovery V8 R380 slave cylinder - and just for reference for anyone who has issues putting a manual R380 gearbox behind a 3.9V8 in a 90. Watch out for the length of the bellhousing, the LT77 V8 bellhousing is longer than the R380 V8 bellhousing, it all bolts up but the gearbox main shaft doesn't engage in the clutch plate. Also, watch out for the length of the clutch slave cylinder push rod, it should be about 11cm long, not 7 or 8. Thanks for the help with this guys, much appreciated.
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