Davewillb

Thanks everyone for all the help. I'm going to have a good look at the corner braces and then get an order in to YRM. And start looking at some TIG gear! I'll post some pics when I get to doing the repair (may have to avoid showing any early TIG welding attempts associated though.

Thanks for that, I'll contact YRM tomorrow. Replacing it would make the best repair for sure. I was thinking earlier it might be another excuse for learning to TiG! Cheers.

Hi, I'm just back to owning a Land Rover with a TD5 110 so I'm starting on the usual list of 'little jobs' - one of the more fiddly and irritating is rot in the aluminium just above the rear cross member in the door opening - see pic. Any suggestions for a tidy repair / trim that would cover it up after an untidy repair very gratefully received. Thanks, David

The 3.9 will probably have the pipework for an oil cooler if it came from a Disco or similar. This can be a bit of a fiddle to sort out depending on what radiator you use as the thread guage on the pipework may not match (although it may look similar) - I blanked the external feeds from the oil pump off eventually which was fine for UK use temp wise. Good luck with the conversion, it certainly makes a fun vehicle - very thirsty though. I Megasquirted mine which might have helped a little with economy but made a massive difference to reliability and probably power.

Thanks for the fuel pump warning, maybe I should buy a spare now, that should keep the original running until I've lost the spare one! I sort of agree about LPG and I have had a V8 with it, with the tank capacity I had I was only getting about 150 miles range though so still used quite a lot of petrol - but I know it works well for some.

Cheers. Yep agreed, I wouldn't have had the same problems with my 300tdi when I had it - Megasquirt is an ECU that I get on well with, trouble is I don't get on so well with the cost of the petrol! Dave

Just fitted new contacts to the solenoid of the starter I replaced - I contact looked very good still but the other was very worn:-

Cheers, I'm planning to do my solenoid when I get a little free time. I'm trying to learn a lesson from this and try the simple things first and not jump to conclusions. This is my first TD5 so I'm in the steep bit of the learning curve😀

Today I swapped out the starter for a brand new DENSO unit, yep I really spashed the cash for a quick fix but I'm moving house very soon and I could really do without the Disco failing to start on the big day - plus I'm going to refurb the solenoid in the original starter which should give me a good spare which is always a handy thing to have. Getting the starter off wasn't as easy as I'd hoped - I managed to round off one of the 13mm headed studs, despite being very carefull, but it was very tight. I had a well fitting socket and I'd even heated the stud first, suspecting it had threadlock on it (which it turned out it had). In the end I had to weld a nut over the head and that did it - I was lucky it was the botton one of the three which is accessible with the welder!

Grabbed 10 mins away from granddaughter minding and sure enough I have 12V on the starter solenoid when ignition is turned to crank but no cranking....Doh!! A swift wack with the hammer to the solenoid and voila! she starts. I guess there is a lesson to be learned here about jumping to immobiliser conclusions - but when I first had a non start a few weeks back it started as soon as I turned of the immobiliser with the Nanocom! Coincidence??

Well ....sadly I can partly answer my own question. This morning I went to it, turned the key, it started to crank and then almost immediately stopped cranking and then wouldn't crank again. Time to investigate if 12V is on the starter solenoid when trying to crank but grandaughter is here for the day.

Hi, Can any one tell me please if I've possibly got this right: With a Nanocom a couple of months ago I turned off the immobiliser on my 2001 pre facelift TD5 Discovery. I did this becuase it refused to start one day and was immobilised, despite me having unlocked it. I didn't try anything else such as the EKA (which I do know) as just turning the immobiliser off with the Nanocom fixed the problem at that time 🙂 So, both keys work, all doors lock on the fobs and unlock ok, no problems for several weeks, then after a visit to a local garage when the battery may or may not have been disconnected it was fine that day, but the next morning it started normally but then stalled after after about a minute and wouldn't restart, fuel pump wasn't running but it would crank. I left it standing in the drive as I had to be somewhere, when I got back 2hrs later it wouldn't then crank - battery was ok etc. I checked with Nanocom and it was still set at Immobiliser off. No faults found. Hmmm - so my theory is the ECU talks to the BCU which in turn then talks to the intelligent fuse panel under the steering wheel, Nanocom can talk to the ECU and the BCU when I go to that section, the immobiliser is off but it won't crank - so my theory is that its probably the the intelligent fusebox playing up (plus the drivers footwell is damp). At this point after a lot of messing about finding the BCU behind the glovebox and removing and refiting the fuse panel (which seemed to be dry) and 24hrs later it suddenly decided to start - by which time I'd about given up! Its been starting ok again since then for a couple of days. So, my theory is that its the fuse panel playing up simulating an immobiliser on situation and I've just bought and fitted an identical fuse panel, left it with the ignition on for 5 mins to sync and the old girl fired up first time - I took the back off the original panel hoping to find water damage / corrosion - all I could see was faint signs of water drying on the vertical circuit board with the processor on it. Any thoughts please from anyone who has been down this road - what are the chances I've got it first try? changing the BCU seems a bit more of a risk with the problems with milage meeding to be less than my car - if thats correct? If it does it again I will check to see if the starter solenoid is getting 12v on crank, didn't think of this when it wouldn't start for some reason - obsessing with the BCU! Sorry for the long wordy post. Cheers, Dave

My front fogs only work when the engine is started,l. From memory I had the same symptoms as you. I haven't checked if this is normal - like you I have a replacement steel bumper with LED's. Dave

That's a fair point and thanks - I'm looking at various pots to improve the mechanical strength and location of the potentiometer. Dave

That's a good point for sure. On the waterproofing issue I've used a decent quality potentiometer and I think it will be ok in normal circumstances (time will tell ) but automotive grade items are probably a better option for sure. Interestingly, I didn't know my TPS was open circuit until I tried to calibrate MS to it, I remember checking it a few years ago and it seemed to be working then so when it failed I don't know... Dave

I'm going to take the original TPS apart when I have a minute to see if I could use the stub shaft from it to link into a replacement potentiometer in the original position. Think you are100% right FF about it not needing to be a 5k potentiometer, its just working as a potential divider so prob best not to go lower than 5k, but 10k worked fine for my MS install as well, it just needs the increasing voltage against ground as the pedal goes down I think.

Hi, I came up with this (bodge) while I was fitting Megasquirt and found my TPS was open circuit, working replacements seemed hard to find and the other options beyond my pocket so I came up with what you see in the picture. Basically its a 5K ohms linear potentiometer mounted on a bracket I bent up which is bolted to the original bracketry holding the throttle spindle. I 'extended' the end of the throttle spindle slightly with a piece of 6mm mild steel rod and a bit of careful work with a mig (off the plenum!!). This then goes to a flexible shaft coupler which takes a 6mm shaft in and fits the 6mm shaft on the potentiometer and also allows a bit of movement if things aren't perfectly aligned. After that it was just a case of calibrating the settings for TPS in Megasquirt, I dont see why this wouldn't work with the original 14CUX system, it would just need a bit of work with a multi-meter to get the potentiometer in the correct position for closed throttle, the colour coding of the TPS connector info is out there - but I haven't tried this on a 14CUX. Oh, just remembered, with my arrangement the shaped pipe rubber pipe that goes from the plenum inlet to the rear of the plenum (fuel pressure regulator is it, not sure) was too tight across the back of the potentiometer so I swapped it for a bit of ordinary hose to gain some space. Hope this helps someone, I don't know how long it will last, I don't see why it shouldn't as there is no vacuum to suck muck in to it with it mounted like this, but time will tell. its a cheap solution anyway, as it happens I had the bits available, but Ebay is your friend if not and a fiver should do it and get you running. I did find that I could get quite a good fixing on the end of the original throttle shaft with the flexible coupling without extending the shaft by taking off the end clip, but I was 100% convinced it would stay on indefinitely - it was like that for a few days without a problem though. I am going to mod my setup when I get a minute, it needs a plug and socket fitted and some sort of strain relief on the cable as it leaves the potentiometer. Dave

Just to confirm that a Defender TD5 clutch master cylinder works fine with a Discovery V8 R380 slave cylinder - and just for reference for anyone who has issues putting a manual R380 gearbox behind a 3.9V8 in a 90. Watch out for the length of the bellhousing, the LT77 V8 bellhousing is longer than the R380 V8 bellhousing, it all bolts up but the gearbox main shaft doesn't engage in the clutch plate. Also, watch out for the length of the clutch slave cylinder push rod, it should be about 11cm long, not 7 or 8. Thanks for the help with this guys, much appreciated.

Much appreciated - I'll update here when I've got it plumbed up for other people's benefit. Dave

.....sorry but I'm confused (not unusual ) I think I'm ok with the slave but its the master I'm struggling with, I've seen it said that a TD5 master cylinder will work but others saying it wont - I'm guessing it depends what slave they had. Am I right to think that a Disco master wont fit because of the different pedal box? thanks, Dave

Hi, Would be very grateful for confirmation on what a suitable part number would be for a Clutch Master Cylinder, I'm converting my 90 from auto to manual, it uses a Discovery 3.9 V8 with gearbox. I'm using FTC5072 for the slave which is the Disco part (I believe) but cant use the Disco master due to the different mounting in the pedal assembly. thanks, Dave

Ok, to help anyone else who hits this problem - its the bellhousing - please see:- - LT77 and R380 bell housings are not the same......

I took the slave cylinder off this morning - made no difference and the push rod was free to move. Also removed the PTO cover and no movement at that end so it has to be an issue with the clutch plate / cover? Gearbox back out tomorrow. Dave

Thanks for the reply, I'll compare the new release bearing tomorrow with the old one that came out of the original setup .I know the old one wasn't plastic and the new one was. I'm wondering as well about the slave cylinder push-rod, if that was too long it would have the same effect wouldn't it. Think I'll unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and see what happens before I take the gbox out tomorrow - deep joy. Cheers, Dave

Hi, Thanks for reading this:- I'm swapping my 90 from automatic to manual, it did have an auto with 3.9 V8 (originally from a Disco) - I've kept the 3.9 in place, fitted a 3.9 manual flywheel, new clutch and pressure plate, new slave, new master, recon clutch pedal with the fancy helper springs from a TD5, recon gearbox from Ashcroft (still a Disco box so sorting the seatbox to allow for gear levers) the transfer box from the original auto box. Having finally got this all together and today was the big day and................no working clutch, as in there is no drive at all, with engine running I can do what I like with the gear stick. Its been a long day and I've only done a few jobs with clutches and that was a few years ago now - but isn't the default clutch engaged until you depress the clutch pedal, mine seems to think the clutch is down all the time. Anyone any thoughts on what I've done wrong please / what I should be looking for when I take the gearbox out again? If I take the rear PTO cover off again I can check for drive up to the transfer box I guess. My only other clue is the clutch pedal feels light, but I haven't had one with helper springs before so......? it did bleed ok...I think. Time for a cold beer. Dave