Davewillb

i Thanks, I've got a new condenser so I can try that tomorrow evening and the timing. Cheers, Dave

Hi, My 2.25 petrol series 2a will start easily but will only run with the choke full out and then won't rev and backfires and spits back back through the carb (which is a weber) when you try to rev it - does this sound like a carb problem? This is a 'get it back on the road with an MOT restoration and the budget is tight and I don't have a spare carb to try so a head up on what this is likely to be will save me some dosh hopefully. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Guys, yes that is definately the part the track rod ir rubbing on, I did slacken it to check if the bolt holes are slotted but they aren't. I'll take it off tomorrow and see what that does for the steering (which is a bit heavy at the moment) the tyres are ok and have been on for a while so I'm guessing ghe tracking may have been adjusted to allow for a bit of a bend in the track rod. Thanks, Dave

Hi, Had to change a propshaft UJ this morning (in the snow!) got that done eventually but while I was underneath I noticed that the track rod is rubbing hard on what looks like a support or protection guard for the track rod which is bolted on to the underside of the front diff and wraps around the track rod. This 'support' is a hefty bit of metal and the back of the track rod is rubbing on it - is this as it should be? Dave

Thanks on the panel colour, it does have flick switches and the warning lights in the speedo, I can't undo the ring on the front because it tightens on to the wings on the outer of the barrel that the key fits into. The key is a snug fit into the barrel and it looks as though originally you inserted the key and turned it for ignition on, then turn the outer of the barrel by the chrome wings to start - at some point someone had added a push switch elswhere on the dash to replace the start function - don't know why but suspect the main switch is faulty probably, I'll have a fiddle and see if I can find the spring loaded pin, can't see it at the moment. Dave

Hi, I thought I'd sort out the instrument panel for my S2A while the weather is too bad for working outside (5" snow on the bonnet)and as someone has painted it bright blue in the past it needs a complete strip down - question is how do I get the lock barrel out of the ignition switch so I can get it out of the panel itself - its a Lucas 128SA . Subsidiary question - what colour should the panel be, I'd assumed the same as the body but it looks as if it could have been black originally now I can see the back properly. Thanks, Dave

Sounds almost good enough to take a bite from - seriously though it does look like a nicely worked machine, it would be interesting to see how the interior is done. Cheers, Dave

Good luck with the 90, sounds nice. I bought quite a few bits an pieces for mine on eBay, I do a search for LAND Rover 90 and then select nearest first to see whats on offer nearby then have a look at the prices / how long to run - there are some bargains to be had if you keep your eyes open regularly. Cheers, Dave PS that 3.9 will be thirsty - no doubt about that but LPG worked well on mine.

Sound like a nice project, I'm planning to try fabricating a standard(ish) crossmember for my hybrid once I've fixed up a bulkhead I'm spending all my time on atm but I could be tempted if it looks doable so I'm wtching with interest - good luck! Dave

Well I know a little more about having had a good poke about and stripped the wings off to do some work on the bulkhead - the chassis appears to have been carefully repaired in the past with the outriggers replaced, it was then galvanised, painted black and covered in what looks like waxoyl (at least in part) because of all this the chassis is generally very good but remarkably there are still some flaky rust spots. The plan is to sort out the bulkhead, fit new footwells and generally get sorted for an MOT and run it for a while - oh an brush paint it cause the current lovely paint job is flaking off. Pics to follow. Dave

Hi, A few more pictures, this is the rear view..... http:// and this is the the interior... http:// I've also noticed this evening that the front dumb irons look as if they are galvanised, other bits of chassis aren't though..... there is a lot of red paint about including on the front axle and all over the matrix of the rad .... please follow link for pickies.. http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/davewillb/DSC00478Small.jpg http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/davewillb/DSC00481Small.jpg I've got a few more pickies which I'll post later including some very rusty mounts on the front gutter and a massive positive cable from the batt to the solenoid in a sort of armoured casing. Cheers, Dave

Thanks for the comments so far, I'll sort out some more pictures over the weekend and also the links, I've added links before and they worked so I'm not sure what I've done wrong this time - I'll sort it out. Cheers, Dave

Hi, I'v just bought this series 2A swb petrol first registered in Dec 1969. http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/davewillb/?action=view&current=Bs51m8QBGkKGrHqYH-CoEvF-uvfNeBL5wRh.jpg and http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/davewillb/?action=view&current=Bs511GQEGkKGrHqUH-D0EvD2f824TBL5wR0.jpg I initially thought the side windows were after market but after a quck look on the net I've seen a few similar looking S2a's which also have the same rear door i.e. split horizontally with a top section which hangs from the top edge and has a prop. The front puzzles me as well, I've read that the headlights migrated to the wings in early 1969 but mine has the inner lights as well as wing mounted lights, I'd assumed that someone had stuck on S3 wings at some point (they don't look original but have been on a long time) so is it most likely that its an early 1969 model registered late in the year? Just to complicate things, the last owner told me that the Landy was brought back from Oz by an earlier owner, that the bull bar is an Oz roo bar, the colour scheme is becauce the owner played for a hockey team in OZ who played in these colours and last of al its got several old Oz stickers on it. Something doesn't add up, the VIN says it was built for the home market but it looks subtly different - mainly two large original stop lights at high level at the rear and two similar internal lights at the rear and a posh headlining... I'd be grateful for peoples thoughts. Cheers, Dave

Thanks, the CATS that came with the engine are well past their sell by date I think, the outer mild steel casing has come off one of them and I don't want to have to replace them if I can help it! Do you know how the MOT test deals with LPG vehicles, can the emission test be carried out when they are running on gas? Dave

Hi, Apologies if this is somewhere on the forum but I can't find it - I want to put a V8 EFI in an older 90 and don't want to have the catalytic converters in the exhaust system. I think the threshold for emissions changed and got significantly lower at a certain date so I should be ok with an older vehicle - is that correct and what is the cut-off date the levels change please. Thanks, Dave

It looks very similar doesn't it, lets hope its just a weep and just spoils the nice clean look a bit and nothing worse. Dave

Mine hasn't even been running since it was cleaned up a few weeks ago and I did the Valley gasket but I'm wondering if I blew some oil in when I pressure washed it.... time will tell!

I pressure washed mine to and did wonder if it was possibly the run-off from that sort of after the event, I think I'm going to leave it rather than start taking the head off...be interesting to see a pic ..

I haven't noticed people talking about oil leaks from this sort of area, just about anywhere else though! Are you going to wait and see with yous? Dave

Success - thought I'd post a picture of the new belt in place:- Thanks for the help people. Dave

Hi, I've replaced both the rocker cover gaskets and the valley gasket in an effort to cure a bad oil leak on my V8 and now cleaned a lot of the accumulated crud of the engine which had accumulated due to the leak - after leaving the engine for a few days I noticed this oil weeping apparently at the head gasket:- This is without the engine having been run - its on its way in to my 90. Have I got a problem? - should I relace the head gasket while the engine is stripped of the periferal stuff? - I don't really want to if I can avoid it as I'm not very familar with V8's and it was running well apart from the leak. Thanks, Dave (Newbie).

Thanks all, I've got one on order so fingers crossed because the image on the dealers part system showed a non serpentine belt but its infamous for being wrong the parts guy says. There are two holes for the locating peg on the tensioner and I think one position allows the non aircon path for the belt - I'll find out soon. Fair point on retaining the pump but the engine is going in a Defender and I'm trying to de-clutter and simplify things as much as poss. Thanks everyone. Dave

Thanks - looks very right, sounds right - I'll check the engine number and get one ordered. Cheers, Dave

Can anyone help me with the part number please for a serpentine belt to fit an EFI V8 from a 1996 V8 - I need to remove the air con pump and so need the shorter belt to replace the existing - my local specialist has tried to find it for me and but failed. The existing belt is about an 1" wide. Apologies if I've posted in the wrong place or something - newbie Thanks - Dave