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WDWM

Getting Comfortable
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  1. WDWM

    OE parts

    Well after finding the ARB droplinks shot after 8 months and 4.5 K miles ( FAI ) I've learned my lesson and using OE items from now on. The previous set didn't last much longer than these either. I'm convinced that what's in the box is dependent on where in China they are smuggled from........ Next set will come from LR and be taken right back if the don't perform as expected. Bad week this week with these and an 8 month failure of new exhaust down pipe and a cat after 20 months ....... I hope the wishbones and F+R bushes I fitted today last. My old Dad used to say " you buy cheap , you buy twice ....." I think he was right.
  2. Look closely at the ARB. It can easily move off centre causing the ARB droplinks to touch the inner wing on lock. Look under the car when the wheels are in the straight ahead position and compare the position and angle of the droplinks. I have had this problem and after resetting the ARB fitted a couple of jubilee clips to the bar either side of the bush saddle.
  3. There are some tests you can do yourself. Fold back the gearstick gaitor and check the two wires going to the HDC switch on the lever. These can and do come adrift from the switch or in some cases ( like mine ) can break due to the movement of the lever. Brake light switch failure can also cause it as said BUT check your brake switch first. Depending on the year of the car it will be a two or a three wire switch . If it is the former then it is not connected to the system and that avenue can be ignored . Only the three wire switch is relevent to this fault. ABS sensors . These can be unplugged each in turn and using a good quality digital multimeter check the sensor ohmic value. These should be circa 980 ohms . The plugs are on the inner wing either side of the engine ( one may require you to unbolt and slide the battery out of the way ) and the other two are on the floor just inside and above the rear plastic wheel liner forward of the wheel CL . These plugs can have either male or female pins again depending on the year. Have a look at the reluctor rings which are just visable at the bottom of each driveshaft through a viewing port. These should be clean and securly attached to the driveshaft. . If neccessary give them a clean and blow out with compressed air as you turn the wheel when jacked up. If the problem still persists I'd have the system interrogated for fault codes. I had this problem off and on for many months and ignored the code read out stating blocked and seized shuttle valves in the ABS pump. Guess what it was .....? A replacement Wabco ABS pump solved it. My problem was down to the brake fluid not being changed as prescribed , my fault entirely , and as it hydroscopic it had slowly absorbed moisture and contaminated the miniture shuttle valves inside the pump. A lesson learned. Good luck with the problem it can be a little bugger to solve .
  4. Here's a link to a thread I started a couple of years ago . http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-tailgate-locked-69495.html Post 36 has a self check operation for most of the circuits on the FL. I stress I haven't tried it yet but the poster is reputable so I wouldn't doubt it's authenticity. My rear tailgate has started operating as normal again but I intend to check the relays, earths ,regulator and harness thoroughly ASAP.
  5. I had exactly the same problem occur on Thursday for the second time . Non operating door latch, window and rear wash/wipe. I had the same problem almost two years ago to the day. I checked both fuses and could here the window down relay coil engaging and the micro switch in the rear handle also operated. After disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes the and then reconnecting the rear window should power down upon connection , mine didn't , but the latch mechanism now works again as does the wash/wipe. I now should be able to carefully prise the window out from under the plastic trim which will allow me access to remove the rear tailgate and 1/4 panels to check the relay contacts , earths, cable harness and regulator cable . Unfortunatly the weather is appalling over here in SW Ireland so it has been put off until it improves. There is a overide function that allows you to self check most of the component functions from the CCU . I picked it up on another FL site so as to avoid upsetting any of the mods on here if you pm me I'll forward the link for you to try. Keep us updated if you rectify the fault as I will to . Good luck
  6. I went through all this recently re tyres when I had to replace the Yokohama Geolanders I fitted on the FL 34K miles ago. Prior to the Geolanders I had Pirelli Scorpions which were a real disappointment internally breaking up after 20 K miles . I couldn't get replacement Geolanders but having a set of Kumhos on another car I wanted to fit them this time round to the FL. Got them here , http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m56b0s222p15905 48 hour delivery to Ireland over Xmas period !. I've driven them on snow, ice , heavy rain ,dry and gravel and they are just as good so far as the excellent Yokohamas they replaced. Road noise is also the same as the Pirelli's and Yoko's. Like you the car is used on road only although the roads down here in SW Ireland are fast turning into dirt / rubble tracks !
  7. Apologies , I wrote that entirely wrong. In the very light snow we have had over here in SW Ireland I find that when attempting to climb the tarmac surfaced hill up to my house the front wheels lose grip almost immediatly . The vehicle then follows the characteristics of a FWD and just sits and spins the fronts. The TC does engage and work. There is no push or indeed spin from the rear at all. Prior to removal of the original VCU and in last years dreadful ice conditions here when grip was lost the four wheels would attempt to drive. I have stood and watched the car under the conditions described and could not see any evidence of drive at the rear. The DB VCU was sold to me as one that had less % drive to the rear via less dense silicon infill. This I accepted on the premise that it would be beneficial to the drivetrain ( IRD and Final drive ) but unfortunatley there is just insufficient drive to the rear . Hope that is clearer than the first post.
  8. I fitted a David Beaumont " loose " recon VCU only 2 months ago at a total cost of € 300 ( + fitting of course ) Snow came on monday and the rear wheels are spinning . Total bloody waste of money and I'm not happy. I've been in touch with Bell Engineering and will replacing it with one of their recon units ASAP. Please avoid David Beaumont VCU's .
  9. The 225/55/17 Yokohama Geolanders fitted to the Freelander are at the end of their life after 30 K miles and 5 years . I'd fit these again but cannot find a UK/Irish supplier so I'm off into the WWW to try and find a suitable replacement . For My wifes car which is used only on road and never above 60mph ( due to the roads down here in SW Ireland ) . I've got Kuhmo's fitted to my car ( MV6 Omega ) and am very satisfied with their performance . I've found these and wondered if any one has any experience with them. http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m56b0s222p15905 Failing that any suggestions from experience re a suitable mid range brand ? I had Pirelli Scorpions on it before but found they had deteriorated to a point that they were disintigrating inside after about 10K miles and they were very noisy whereas the Geolanders have been superb in all areas.
  10. I've fitted the Heko ones to my 5 door. Is there not some double sided strips of tape as well in the box ? Anyway I fitted the two stainless clips per side on the front but I think I also got two per side for the rear too. The clips are just to ensure that the glass doesn't come into contact with the deflector when it is lifted. I seem to remember double sided tape is also attached to the outside surface of the deflector which adheres to the internal face of the rubber window trim, hence the insrtructions to keep the window closed to help the adhesive to take. Your correct about the front ones having to be " twisted " into position but it's quite straightforward and they wont snap.the rear ones will have a slight notch out of them and this should be placed at the rear of the door . They do work and also look factory . HTH's Don
  11. has not set their status

  12. Look forward to hearing what you think on the driveability of the loose VCU dan as I'm about to get one myself.Zippo on here fitted one and speaks highly of it so would be good to know what you think too. Cheers Don
  13. Today I spoke to Mrs Beaumont @ David Beaumont Gearbox specialists she said much the same as has been quoted on this thread about it being filled with a "thinner " gel thus causing less stress on the IRD and was quite honest to suggest a OEM item would be better if serious offroading and caravan towing was required. I'm over in SW Ireland and when I asked if it was exchange she said that because of the distance it wouldn't be required. A very reasonable carriege price of £30 was quoted. I also asked if they could supply OEM VCU / prop bearings and she said no and advised me to go OEM. I was quite impressed with her answers. Whats the concencus of opinion on these "loose " VCU's ? It's for my wifes FL 1 1.8 K series it's never off road and only used as a day to day road car. On the subject of OEM VCU bearings I priced a couple from my local LR Main Dealer € 111 each (£97 ) !!!!!! Can anyone tell me how that compares with UK list price ?
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