PS_Bond

Ach, if you can do it at all I'll be grateful! If I'm lucky I might get as far as taking some of the old one off this weekend.

What would be the chances of you posting photos of the process, please? I've got a moderate idea of what I'm doing now, but the reinforcement would be greatly appreciated. If I get time this weekend I should be able to finish stripping down the beast to ready to cut the existing crossmember (and replace the final brake pipe) - providing I don't get too carried away with playing with the new plasma cutter...

Thank you for that - I've been a bit concerned about how I'd get that sorted; that's a great idea and should help with shield gas too. I've just got to drop the fuel tank out on mine then I can chop out the old one & get on with fitting the nice new Black Sheep one I received last week. Well, once I've tested some more of my welds to destruction anyway.

Similarly I have one of the £99 with glass ones now (fancied a new rear window with no scratches). One of the ally angle brackets wasn't in fantastic condition when it arrived, but I'm sure I'll manage. Need to flat back the primer and spray it next.

Cor, I missed all that! Copper grease is going onto everything that I might want to undo ever again... Left hand drill bits sometimes help, but not if they haven't had some prior persuasion (heat, plus gas). I've grown perhaps overly fond of resistance heating using an arc welder though

Nah, it's off regardless. The bulb is fine, it appears to be making contact with the PCB - it just has +12V both sides. The old alternator delivers 14.3V at least - the 100A Magnetti Marelli read 12.3.

Solved the first problem; nothing more than a duff contact to the PCB. The alternator problem is interesting though... With the alternator completely disconnected the warning light does not illuminate - there's 12V either side of the lamp, which makes little sense given the circuit diagram. Help?

If it comes to it, I have a manifold on my dead engine (although perhaps I should take the EGR valve off first). What are the chances of getting a weld onto the bolt remains? Recent experience would suggest that would stand a better chance of success than those infernal screw extractors.

I plugged mine back in despite it not being connected at the other end - beat loose connecters in the engine bay. I presume you've Plusgassed the bolt to death? Heated it yet?

Saw the same behaviour when I fitted the wrong temp sender on my 300TDi - slightly alarming, but I had a thermocouple measuring the water too so was able to blame the sender rather than panic about overheating.

Think I've got it on the wiring diags - temperature sensor to the EGR ECU. Pink with a black trace, green with a blue trace? C027 (on the head, between rocker cover & inlet manifold)

Going purely on the location - there's a 2 pin plug under the rubber cover around the rocker cover, damned if I can remember what the sensor is though. Not oil pressure, not water temp. Possibly linked to the EGR controller, but IIRC the EGR valve plug comes from the front backwards? Didn't check the wiring colours while I was there though

Don't I know it! Starting to think that mocking up the graphic and lasering it onto waterproof laser paper is probably the only realistic solution.

Daft question - when was the timing belt last done? (scratch that - it's a chain on that one, isn't it?)

Oops... I'm at 6's & 7's it would seem. MTC6006 is actually the one I mean - the 3 coloured one on the RHS. Sorry!

As above - anyone know of a supplier who has the stickers for the RHS of a Defender console? Preferably not one who thinks that because it is superseded by YAZ100030 that'll fit - cos it really won't... Alternatively, does anyone have some suitable alternative solutions? I don't think the old one is going to peel off the knackered console in one piece, unfortunately. Wondered about something laser printed onto a suitable plastic?

Still messing with this warning panel; currently, I've got no full beam telltale, despite full beam working - need to buzz it out & see if I've got connectivity to the PCB before I dig much further. I've also noticed that the battery warning light no longer comes on... Poking at the alternator, I don't seem to be getting a reasonable voltage measured off the terminals - 12.3V, rather than the 14ish I'd expect. I'm sure I've seen wiring diagrams for the back of a 100A alternator on here, but I can't find it for the life of me - help? This is the alternator that came with the engine (which came from a Disco); I've still got the 65A, so I can swap back if needs be but it'd be nice to get the bigger one debugged. (Added - given the charge light goes to earth from the battery when the alternator isn't running, I'm a tad puzzled at the moment by why it isn't illuminating at all with the engine off - which is why I'm wondering about duff wiring to the alternator)

As an alternative to soldering wires to the PCB, I've got some adhesive-backed copper foil that can be used for repairing the traces - cut to size, stuck in place and solder bridged. A glass fibre brush is about the best bet for cleaning things before soldering. I gave in on sorting my knackered one out and sourced a replacement - hadn't realised until it arrived that it was from a petrol Defender, so I've currently got a choke symbol indicating the glow plugs are on...

So there's nothing to commend any of the more expensive doors on the splandroveers link over the £99.95 one?

Frequency sounds wrong for wheel balance, but have you checked it?

Is the battery fully charged?

Got the swine. Slightly sticky switch and the connector wasn't properly seated. Another one off the list...

Point taken - I think that the amount of welding is getting close to building the thing from scratch, so I'm resigned to learning how to do it properly.

Kind of why I was trying to postpone it. Cheers for that, I guess I'm just down to sourcing something suitable now. Unless anyone is prepared to spend their time writing an idiot guide to installing a "kit" of extension pieces, I'll go with something with them already attached - looks like the 2 options are http://www.mm-4x4.com/defender-110-rear-crossmember-with-extensions-599-p.asp or http://e.dominohosting.biz/dca/mpsdb01.nsf/MainCatalogue!OpenForm&RestrictToCategory=90_110:%20PANELS_CHASSIS%20SECTIONS (although if Black Sheep get back to me and say they'd fit the extensions first I'd be tempted - less for the strength, more for the no mud traps). Well, I suppose there's Britpart too...

I got clipped by someone driving into me at a roundabout a few years ago - tore their bumper off, broke the headlight and trashed the wing. Took me ages to work out that she'd caught the back tyre - the only damage was some scuffing. (She decided to change lane from stationary as I was approaching a red light in a clear lane - leading to the delightful harangue of "you're supposed to give way to the right on a roundabout"...)