bguillory

Marc, thanks for all the info. I was hoping that the Defender foot boxes would fit better than they sounds like they do. I think I am going to stick with my Series 1 foot boxes. I am using a series 2 gearbox so I still have my rod controlled clutch. I'm still trying to figure out my accelerator pedal to throttle cable problem... But I started another thread for that. Thank you again, Brad Guillory

I have a 2.5L NA Diesel that I am fitting to my Series 1 project. Does anyone have suggestions for connecting the throttle cable to the accelerator pedal. The one guy I know that did this took a Defender Pedal Assembly cut off the pedal and welded on a Series pedal. I was thinking I could just connect the cable to the cross shaft lever but I haven't assembled that far and don't know if there will be a suitable place to hang the cable outer. Anyone want to chime in? Thanks in advance, Brad Guillory

Anderzander, I'm not interested in making the brakes more powerful but more reliable.

I started a new thread based on this response. Hopefully the moderators will approve it soon.

There are some large holes cut in my foot wells already so I need to work on them anyway. Using D90 foot wells is an interesting idea. I still need to work out accelerator pedal that is compatible with my engine and a Defender pedal would make things easy. I do rather like the robustness (or least perceived robustness) of my rod actuated clutch. Marc, can you let me know what worked well and didn't. Thanks, BMG

Does anyone have experience with Dunsfold "Screen to bulkhead seal" (http://www.dunsfold.com/Sales/Specials/special_offers.htm)? Mine is intact but very dry rotted and will replace it with this reproduction unless someone knows it doesn't do the job. Thank you, Brad

I understand that dual circuit brakes will not make it stop any better (unless I develop a leak). I was hoping for some additional safety margin. I am scared of using the e-brake at speed. I have already replaced all of the wheel cylinders and I have a kit to rebuild my three bolt master cylinder. Before I did the rebuild I was checking to see if there was something else that made sense. As far as the brake lines go they were painted just before I got the truck (a previous owner painted the frame) so it is hard to tell their condition. Can anyone tell me what it takes to fit a D90 master cylinder to a Series 1? Thank you, Brad

I am working on my first LR; a project that I purchased including a 1958 Series 1 88" truck and a 2.5L NA diesel. I see that the brakes are single circuit. Is there an easy way to convert to dual circuit brakes? I have a vacuum pump on the diesel available if that makes a difference. I don't really want to hang a different pedal or cut the fender. Also any recommendations on replacing the brake lines? I already replaced one with line I got at the auto parts store and a flaring tool. Should I just replace all of it as a matter of course? Thanks, Brad

Les, Thanks for the great description; it sounds like I have a 2.5L. I don't have the fuel tank mounted yet so I just ran my fuel line (and return) into a fuel can. I will try advancing the crank and manually pumping again. What is the preferred method of advancing the crank? I will use the starter for now. If the lift pump is bad will the injector pump provide enough lift to pull some fuel into the lines? errol209, Thanks for the links. The workshop manual is very helpful. Though I didn't find many torque specs. The bolts I am referring to are the ones that hold the return line on top of the injectors. They appear to be pretty special in that they allow fuel to pass through them. Thanks again, Brad

Hi all, I bought a project Series 1 88; it came with a diesel Defender motor (either 2.25 or 2.5 NA, I don't know how to find out which). The original motor had been traded away for this diesel. While the truck was still in Oregon I got some help from some great LR people there getting the engine mated to a Series 2 transmission and the whole of it fitted to the truck. When I tried to test fire the motor the starter was bad. I hauled the truck back home to Colorado. Fast forward several months. I finally have it in the garage and I'm working on it. I had the starter rebuilt locally and it appears to work pretty well. I tried to test fire the motor but it wouldn't fire up. I re-plumbed the fuel system with clear nylon lines so I can see what is going on. I can't seem to get all of the air out the line. I found a lever on the forward side of what I think is the lift pump but it doesn't seem to do anything. If I crank over the engine for a while it pulls fuel into the lines but there are still air bubbles and most of the lines are nowhere near full. I should mention that I found the fuel solenoid and connected it to power -- it makes a solid click so I guess it works. How can I test that the lift pump works? Can it be rebuilt if it doesn't? Which shop manual should I get? I just care about the engine sections because I have some pretty good books for the Series Truck. I'm looking for something that would tell me torque settings for the waste fuel bolts and how to test the fuel pump. Ideally it would tell me things I probably should know already such as which position to leave the manual pump lever in when not in use. I'm hoping I can get the motor started soon because I think that it will give me a big motivation to get the truck on the road. Thank you in advance, Brad Guillory