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myzeneye

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  1. ok...this is how it went......... got it off in around 5 mins, stripped/cleaned and rebuilt in 10 mins and all put back on in another 5 mins or so.... !!!! seriously.... the kit worked a treat...you could physically see the worn contacts wich come out....it was really easy to remove the bits and replace the new at 10 quid for the kit no one should be spending 120 quid on a new starter motor... this is the one i used here : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-FRE...item4cf000c82a for fututre ref for anyone wanting to do this job... 1. take the battery terminals off... (use a 9v battery with a couple of wires soldered on it across the battery leads to maintain enough juice to keep radio codes and clock time etc.... 2. remove the black plastic air box and the black rubber 90' air hose above the bolts for the starter motor.. 3.crack off the two super tight bolts holding the motor on... and remove the pos power leads...one is on the same side as the starter motor as you look down when stood infront of the car, then move yourself round the wing and lean in over the battery...if you look down youl see the 2nd 15mm bolt head around two/three inches across to the right from the first one 4. remove the bolts and pull the motor out towards you and up and out.. strip and rebuild the starter following the instructions supplied in the overhaul kit... ( its only 3x 8mm bolts and your in !...remove the plunger and spring, remove and replace the worn contacts...) clean the unit up and replace in reverse order... simples... total cost £10 plus delivery for the kit... time taken to do... half an hour tops if your good.... when i put the battery terminals back on they didnt seem to tight up solid ,so a couple of "shims" made from electrical earth bonding clamps put in to tighten the contact to the battery did the job.... starts first flick of the key and im made up.... saved over a ton on parts and i dread to think what the labour would have been...
  2. i need an exploded diagram of the starter motor on my td4... if any one can help...cheers
  3. the vcu...the bain of my life............... i thought i had vcu issues on my freelander, put a new one on hardy spicer (?) i think, from the lr center...apparently hardy spicer (?) make the genuine ones for lr.... i put it on and also had the ird split and all the bearings renewed..the total cost with a service aswell was 800 quid! when i tested the new vc out it felt just as tight as the old one, maybe even a tad tighter... ??? so after a new vcu and overhauled ird .. the answer is "its suposed to feel this way...." the best advice i was given was forget about it and just accept that this is how its supposed to feel.... im still suspicious of the bugger but after renewing all the bits involved im convinced its normal to feel like the breaks are on when on full lock...
  4. hi guys... i think the starter motor on my 05 plate td4 is on its way out... i was just pricing a lucas replacement on ebay and came across a listing for a repair kit ??? it says how the td4 starter is prone to failiure and can be easily repiared with a "plunger and contacts" kit... please have a look at the listing here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330444045631&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT if youve used one please let me know, or if its a load of kak let me know... other then that if you can suggest any places to buy a replacement please do... finally, i havent even looked under the bonnet to find the starter motor...any pointers at removing it etc would be greatly recieved, its been a while since i had a spanner in my hand..!! thanks matty
  5. done deal...cheers graham... see folks if you never ask, youll never know !
  6. fitted some nice little team heko wind deflectors on the windows of our freelander last week, very good indeed, only £30 quid on ebay, looked nice on the car, work well for cutting out wind noise and were simple to fit... well, i guess with simple to fit comes simple to remove !!!! they were on the car one exactly one bleedin week before some low life thought they'd help themselves to them... you cant have nothing.
  7. anyone got a bike carrier for a freelander gathering dust in their garage ?? if so and you wanna few quid for it let me know.....
  8. job done with landyman lukes method... the manufacturersinstructions told me to turn the bolt as aposed to holding it still and turning a nut... no wonder the thing was spinning like a good'un.. cheers luke
  9. landymanluke... your gonna have to elaborate mate...hahaha...what am i doing with the small length of tube ? ive gotta feeling it will be spinning like a cathrine wheel and im not sure super glue will bond to well to the under seal in the sill and chassis... cheers guys..
  10. guys im stuck..... i need some kind of fixing..? bought some chrome side bar jobbies for the freelander and had an attempt at fitting them today.... it didnt happen like the manufacturers instructions suggested.... the main problem was the fixings for the chassis, known as rivnuts... the chassis and inner sill on the car has holes already in it, but they were just holes,no captive nuts etc.... the instructions told me to enlarge the hole with an 11mm drill bit... that was easily done... next was to insert some peice of cak fitting called a "rivnut" or "nutsert"...... then using a rivnut tool (which cost a tenner and does not work at all) you insert an m8 bolt and tighten untill the rivnut colapses on itself forming a tight rivet with a thread in the middle... well, the rivnut tool failed to grip the rivnut in any way whatsoever, therefor it would just half colapse and then spin......with no way of keeping it still it seems impossible to tighten it down enough to make it collapse and for a tight solid fixing point.... so, i have got one in nice and tight, two in which are loose and one whole in the sill looking a bit ragged.... evilmad.gif the ones i have are m8... i have seen m10 ones on ebay, i was gonna drill out these failed attempts and start again with a more substantial rivnut but its been suggested to me that i wouldnt be able to get them to compress without a specialist tool ? so.... is there any other option.... i need a fixing of some kind..... both the sill and the chassis are hollow with no acces to the inner side for holding a spanner on a nut etc or anything... the metal is around 3.5mm thick... plaster board fixings seem the only option but obviously they just aint sturdy enough...largest i can find is m6........ welding some kind of nut in place and an option, i dont have access to any welding gear.... is there any way of me fixing a stud in ?? god this is doing my head clean in... anyone else done this mod and had the same problems...how did you sort it out ?
  11. these vcus are a pain in the arse mate...and as said above, alot of misinfo etc reguarding vcu's... s just spent 800 quid due to vcu paranoia... tried tipex, breaker bars etc etc.. was convinced it was goosed due to the car being so tight when on full lock, like the breaks are on... spent 800 quid on vcu and ird bearing overhaul etc...got the car back and it felt exactly the same.... (hard lesson to learn i know...) in fact, if anything, i think the car feels even tighter when reversing on full lock now !!! apparently, " a charactoristic of any vehicle which uses a viscous coupling withing the drive train."
  12. ok.. does anyone know is the multispoke alloys on the sport models have a name so i can search that way ? cant seem to find any on ebay etc....
  13. i fancy havy some better looking alloys on my 05 plate td4....dont want anything rediculas and would still like them to be of use off road.... can anyone reccommend a decent alloy/tyres supplier on line.... also, if you have alloys on yours, please post a picture to show them off..hahaha... id even like just the bigger ones of a sport model if anyone knows of any going at a good price...?
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