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Everything posted by Smokydiesel

  1. Thanks for all the replies ! Will try to sort out the play.... Cheers, Edwin
  2. Hello, My 1969 Series IIa has steering play to a point where it's no longer relaxed to take it out on the road. I have changed all the balljoints including the ones on the arm between main steering box and the slave box in the front cross member. Tried tightening up the bolt on the main steering box, that helped a bit.... Wheel bearings and swivels are OK. What would be the main suspect here ? main steering box or the "slave"-box up front ? Thanks ! Edwin
  3. Will check and see if the earth strip is making good contact... Thanks so far ! Edwin
  4. Have checked and both wire have 12 volts with ignition on and not shorted to the earth. However, if I do short them to the earth and put the ignition on, the oil light doesn't come on and the gauge doesn't move..... Am I missing an earth cable here ? There is one running from engine to chassis...
  5. Ever since I swapped the old engine for a better one, the oil light and coolant-temp gauge refuse to work. All was well before the swap, but now...... Yes, I do have one of those fancy digital voltmeters, but reading the volts is about all I can do as I'm no electrical wizzard.... Oil light: Wire on the sensor; no light. Wire off the sensor; no light. Wire on a different sensor; no light Temp gauge: Wire on a new sensor (outside the engine block), while heating it up in a cup of boiling water; no movement in the gauge. I did run an extra earth wire from the sensor housing, just to eliminate the faulty earth-option. Testing all of the above with a jump-cable running from the battery's negative pole, hooked up to the engine block: no light and no movement. Everything else on the car works, so that would rule out a blown fuse I think... As I said, all was well before the engine swap, so it must be something " simple" or "basic" that I'm missing here.....but what ?? Any idea's ? How can I put the voltmeter to good use and measure something like Amps etc etc ? Thanks, Edwin
  6. sorted ! Turned out that Ihad completely closed the jet's at the bottem of the carb-bowls. Somehow they were dripping petrol earlier and I thought I was closing the drain-plugs on both carbs..... Thanks !
  7. I checked the firing order and the lead are all in the correct position. When I start I can't see the pistons in the carbs moving up (I can move them with a finger) Also no fuel visable...... Seems that it could be a fuel problem then.... What could prevent the carbs from getting fuel ? I had to tighten the drain plug underneath each carb, because they were dripping a bit. Could this have to do with anything ? Feed and return are in the correct position an fuel pump is OK (as posted earlier)
  8. After swapping my old V8 for a better (I hope) block, I've got a very basic problem: I can't get it to start ! Not even tow-starting behind a friends 110 will work... We've tried this for 2 hours yesterday, no hick, no sound, nothing that points into any form of life in it. I've checked; Fuel: Took the fuel line's from the carbs and the fuel pump pushes out a fair amount of the expensive stuff. But how do I check if inside the carbs receive the fuel ? There is no real smell of petrol while trying to start.... Ignition: Took a sparkplug out and it is sparking OK. Distributer and rotor look new, the coil worked with the old engine last week, so should be OK. Leads are all check and seem OK The engine however is fitted with a ignition/spark enhancer (is that the good word ?) An aluminium little block (with cooling rib's on it) with two wires coming from the distributer, one wire is hooked up to ground/earth, another two wires to the positive (red wire) and negative (brown wire ) spades on the coil. Tried swapping the positive and negative wires on the coil, no result. I guess the enhancer could be defective alltogether, but would that situation result in a sparking plug at all.....as tested ? And would a faulty or wrong wired in enhancer result in the engine not starting at all ? There is a wire running from the positive spade on the coil, to the car's wiring loom. That was there also with the old engine in. So, me being from "Planet Diesel", I haven't got a clue here ;-) Can anyone point me in the good direction ? Thanks
  9. Sorted ! Turned out that my solenoid has three spades. As you would expect, the third and last one was very difficult to get at, but also the one I needed to put the wire on..... Thanks all !
  10. Hi Brian, Thank you for your reply ! I take it the small spade connector is the point where the wire from the ignition switch hooks up ? If feeding it with 12 volts results in the startermotor spinning, does this mean that there is something wrong with the ignition swith ? (or the wire running to it...)
  11. Hi all, I've removed my V8 (ex SD1) because it was getting very very tired. Last weekend I put a salvaged early Defender V8 engine in. At the moment I can't get my startermotor to jump into life. I can hear a relay click but the starter itself isn't doing anything (not even the click click sound you get when a starter is stuck) Here's what I did: I ran the positive cable from the battery straight to the starter (the solenoid) Four thicker brown cables (comming from the car's wiring harness) all joined together in two ring-terminals hooked up the solenoid also (together with the + battery cable) One thinner cable hooked up to seperate connector on the solenoid. There is 12 volts at the solenoid. Battery is OK Did I forget anything ? Would could be wrong ? I had now problems with the old engine and starter. Didn't make any changes to the wiring....... Thanks !! Edwin
  12. Paddocks sell a carpet set for 65 pounds. Has anyone used this and is it any good ? Thanks Edwin
  13. Fridgefreezer: yes, I think you're right, the best and fasted way to get going again is with Carbs ! Bowie: let's see if I understand what you are saying: So there is a difference between a flapper EFI system and and Lucas EFI system ? Flapper is much easier to hook up compared to Lucas.... How do I recognise a Flapper from a Lucas ?
  14. Thanks for all your replies ! It isn't leaking oil but I also can't see any blue smoke....just a bit of white when it's cold... Haven't checked oil pressure, sparks or compression because I bought it 2 days ago, but will do so !! Thanks ! Edwin
  15. OK, that cleared it up for me ! Carbs is the way to go for me.... Thanks !
  16. Thanks for all the replies so far guys ! I'm sure MS is great but it seems far to complex and expensive for me. Not to bothered about 10 BHP more or less, looking for a simple job that will get me on the road again in a weekend. I'm from the TDI-planet, so a plain and basic V8 (EFI or Carbs) is heaven to me ;-) Bowie, could you give me a step by step instruction on what to change/connect/hookup/get when I put an EFI in ? Thanks
  17. Hi, Bit of a V8 -newbie here... I want to keep the job as simple as possible, that's why I was thinking of converting back to SU's If I were to go down the EFI-route, what would I be looking at ?: ObviousIy I need the computer.... I suppose that computer needs input by several sensors ? Different throttle that sends signals to the computer ? Or is it more simple than that ? Thanks ! Edwin
  18. I might need to replace my worn V8. Seems that a lot of V8 engine's for sale are EFI's. How easy is it to convert back to SU carbs ? What do I need to replace ? Thanks !!
  19. Hi, Bought a Defender that is fitted with a 1980's ex SD1 V8 engine. It's low on power, uses oil and it pressurises the coolant-system..... So what's the verdict you think ?? Thanks !
  20. Hi, How much trouble is it to get the correct engine number on the V5 ? (because of an engine change) Can I just send it in to the DVLA ? Or will the need to see " proof" in whatever form of shape ? Any idea how long it will take to get the new V5 back....? Thanks !
  21. Hi, I fitted new brakedrums to my Series 2a. Used the "blue label" quality so now I'm left with a pulsating brake-pedal.....I'm guessing the drums aren't 100% round..... Had problems with these drums before as they would bind with the new (Bearmach) brakeshoes on. Same new brakeshoes but with the old drums on again, and all was well... Where can I get good quality drums for a fair price ? Had a look at LRseries, they sell an original drum for 80 pounds each, that too much for me.... Thanks !
  22. Sounds like you've had this problem before and have become an expert I did do the bottle-test and I noticed a lot of vibrations on the left hand side of the car, near the seatbox. This is about where the middle silencer is located..... I could twist the silence a 180 degree, so it moves away from the floor (pipework is welded off-center on the silencer) Do you think that will help ? At the moment the complete exhaust is suspended at just two points, one behind the rear silencer and one just behind the middle silencer. From the middle silencer up forward it's a solid pipe......could that be to rigid ? Always wondered why the 300 tdi exhaust has that flexi bit at the front end, and the 200 TDI doesn't.. Any idea's would help, thanks !! Edwin
  23. I used the Steve Parker downpipe and a complete new exhaust for a 2.5 TD (mine was a NA). It isn't touching, but the silencers are a different shape (NA had flat/oval silencer, TD has a big round pot) So the whole exhaust might indeed be closer to the floor and chassis. I made up some new exhaust hangers because the chassis brackets on the NA-layout are different from the TD setup. Used plenty of rubber though.....I think.. How would the new exhaust create the vibrations ?...simply because the noise-source is closer to the floor ? How could I tackle this...? Cheers, Edwin
  24. Hi, Thanks for the replies so far ! My 90 has an ex-Disco 200 tdi engine, ratio is 1:4 and I'm running on 7.50 x 16. I swapped the old 2.5 NA engine for the TDI because I had read only positive reviews about this conversion. To be honest I'm am a bit disappointed about the result; Yes It does pull better than the old lump and yes it is faster, but together with all that came the extra engine noise and horrible body-vibrations while at idle speed. To kill the noise I fitted the special thick rubber carpet-set on the floors and seatbox, and I stuck sound-foam on the inside of the bonnet. I went through 3 sets of engine mounting rubbers to tackle vibrations. I ended up buying those mounting rubbers by Glencoyne, that improved it a bit but it is still not perfect. Had the injection pump and timing check. There's noting rubbing against the body or chassis. All in all, I'm a bit fed up with fiddling about without a good result. As I'm only doing about 500 miles a year in the Defender, I started looking for a petrol engine..... But reading your replies has made me re-think again. It's true, Holland is about as flat as a pancake, but even here some extra power is more than welcome while pulling a trailer. Ah well, might buy a v8 !! Cheers, Edwin
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