Jump to content

Smokydiesel

Settled In
  • Posts

    158
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Smokydiesel

  1. Right, have been searching the forum. As I understand, a hot top hose and cold bottom hose/header tank, is just OK. Guess I'll have to find a temp-sender that matches my gauge AND give's a sensible reading.....
  2. Hi, Yes it would be the right sender, it's the one Steve Parker sell's especially for the Disco-lump conversion. Although I read here that some people have "strange readings" even with a SP-sender..... An air lock could very well be, i'd have to check that this evening. I'd expect the lower hose and header tank to be much cooler than the upper rad hose, but stone cold after a 40 mile trip ??? Is that normal ? Since the thermostat swap, the heater works a treat now !!
  3. Hi, I just swapped my thermostat for a new one because it seemed to be stuck open as the engine wouldn't warm up. (200 tdi, ex Disco engine) Replaced it with a 88 degree thermostat, but now the bottom radiator hose and header tank stay cold, even after a 40 mile trip. The upper hose is warm, not very very hot. Could it be that this thermostat isn't opening at all ?? Also noticed that the temp-gauge is now nearly in the red, with the old thermostat it would hardly move from the cold-position.... Thanks !
  4. Here's what I did (not easy to connect to a OS-wing snorkel though...) The filterhouse is a combination of NA and 200 TDI.
  5. Mmmmmm what bleeding nipple would that be then... didn't know there is one... Will check ! Thanks
  6. Just oiled the UJ's, let's give it a night and see what happens !
  7. Not yet checked the damper, because the steering was fine until I changed the hose..... Thanks !
  8. Hi, Just last week the high pressure PAS hose from pump to box has been replaced (200 tdi) New oil went in (ATF) and I bled the system. Now the steering to the left is OK, but the steering to the right feels sometimes "stiff" while turning the wheel. I think I bled the system: Both front wheels jacked up. Fluid reservoir opened steering 20 times from full lock to full lock Because the old PAS hose collapsed while driving, I had to run the car without PAS (and a dry running pump...) for 4 about minutes before I got home. Could this have damaged the pump ? If so, you would expect problems while steering to left AND right.....not just to the right.... Could it be some air that is still inside the system ? Or.... a seized universal joint because it had to work a bit harder the last 2 miles without PAS ? Any idea's ?? Thanks ! Edwin
  9. Hi, Changed the ECU temp-sensor but without any succes. Could you please tell me a bit more about this Ingnition Amplifier ? Where can I locate it, what does it do, easy change ? Sorry for all the question.....I am a former Diesel-driver so a bit new to the V8-petrol world.. Thanks !! Edwin
  10. Ahhh....could very well be the case here, it has been fitted with an after market immobiliser. Thanks for pointing this out ! Edwin
  11. When I turn the igniton-key into the second position on my 1992 EFI, all the doors lock automaticly (provided all doors are closed) Just wanted to know if this is a fault (dodgy earth ?)or just another great safety feature (if so, how can I turn it off please...?) Thanks !
  12. Hi all, I've got a 1992 classic V8 that is difficult to start. It always takes about 10 seconds of continues churning before it slowly comes to life. Got the impression that starting is a bit more difficult when hot than cold....... In the end I always get it to run, once it's fired up it runs fine. Battery is full of pep ! Any idea's what could cause this ?? Thanks ! Edwin
  13. Thanks a lot ! I noticed your from Shepton Mallet; see you June 19-th or 20-th at the Land Rover show !... Edwin
  14. Hi, Will these Discovery 1 rims (NTC9976) fit my 1992 Range Rover classic ? Thanks ! Edwin
  15. Thanks a lot ! So I guess the front is OK, just need to have a look at the back.....(that RAM thingy..) Cheers, Edwin
  16. Hi, Just bought my first classic, so I'm new to this forum. It's a 1992 (V8) Vogue SE with coil springs and running on 255/65/16 tyres. Now while looking at this great machine it seems a bit low. I'm wondering if the previous owner has lowered it. Could someone help me with some measurements ? Measuring at the front, right over the centre-hub of the front wheel, I've got 31 inches (79 cm) from floor to the lowest bit of the wheelarch. At the back it's 33 inches (84 cm) Thanks a lot ! Edwin.
  17. Here's a picture of me tapping holes for some extra studs. I countersunk the holes marked in red, with a drill (20.5 mmm) as shown below: Mind you, if there is an easier/better/original way I'd go for that, I was advised to buy the Steve P. bolts and went ahead...
  18. Combined the 2,5 NA-filterhousing (upside down) with the 200 TDI housing-lid. The air intake is just underneath the wing.
  19. Hi, I'm sure Les and Western will help you out with the missing studs. As for the extra 4 fly wheel house bolts, yes you do need to countersink the wholes in the housing (if you are using the Disco-fly wheel housing and the original bellhouse on your TD/NA gearbox) But you need to countersink the wholes on the inner side of the fly wheel housing, the side that mates with the bellhousing. I bought the same 4 bolts from Steve P. and they came with some counter-sink instructions. Not that difficult if you have the proper drill.
  20. Sorted ! I turned up the idle speed just a bit and it's almost perfect (well…for a Land Rover) now. Must admit that it runs a bit high now, but at least the windows don't wind them self down while waiting at the traffic lights in the morning Thanks everyone ! Edwin.
  21. Just a quick update: I've changed the mounting rubbers and it has improved. On idle speed, I used to have shaking doors, mirrors, windows, gearstick, cubbybox, seats etc etc. Now only the two side windows rattle like crazy. Even while driving, it's definitely more silent. Must say that the old rubbers are noticeably harder than the genuine one's. Next step is adjusting the idle speed and a swap from the gearbox mounting-rubbers. Edwin
  22. Hi, Yes I did use new mounts but I got them from a military surplus-company, they are certainly new but Genuine part ?? don't think so !! Could very well be Britpart. Recently I ordered two different mounts: STC434 (genuine), they a suitable for just about any pre-1994 Land Rover and should also fit V8 models. So I'm hoping that with these new mounts and some adjustment to the idle speed all will be OK…..finally !
  23. Good to know that Defender mounts are the same for NA, TD and TDI ! Not sure about the current rpm's on idle, might be just a tiny bit high........will try to adjust it soon and see what happens. Thanks for the idea ! Edwin
  24. After changing my 2,5 NA engine for an ex-Disco 200 TDI, I am now very happy with the performance. The only issue with this conversion is that it left me with a lot of vibrations going through my Defender on idle speed. I used new mounting rubbers but stuck to the old style (NA/TD mounts) The 200 TDI in a Disco (don’t know about Defender) has a very different type of engine mount and I’m sure that’s for a good reason. I was wondering if someone here has the same “problem” and how did you solve it ? Was thinking along the lines of softer mounting rubber or….ahhhmmmm ??? Thanks, Edwin PS I've ruled out the possibility of something rubbing against the chassis, so must be mounts !?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy