MUDisGood

As Tibout said u can adjust in that way but correct throw out and spring reset float need to be correct and trial and error will take time. have had similar prob before. Remove it and cleaning with plenty of WD40 sorted it nicely! Dan

depending on what gear box u have this is, but on the LT77 gear box the clutch throw out arm (release arm) pivots on a stud with a ball and socket type assembely, it is verry common on older vehicles for the ball to work its way through the socket end pressed into the release arm. this will cause the clutch peddle to stay down with no fluid leaks and when it goes it goes instantly! if this is the case a cheap part to replace but when u do if u do, get ur garage to weld a small strip of steel on the back of the socket on the release arm to strengthen it and prevent it happening again. as for the gear lever, i did exactly the same as u when this happened to me, if it is the early LT77 box the gear lever assembly pivots and selector bars, sit in a crappy bit of cast ally on top of the box. this is NOT a strong bit of cast and i snapped mine in two. the gear lever stays attached and goes floppy, i think mine was already cracked though as like u, certain gears were already difficult to select. simple way to find out is to remove the rubber gaiter from the turret that the two gear sticks go through and slide it up the shafts and shine a torch in, u will soon see if this is the case or not. again u can pick up a second hand one cheap enough.

yep i agree with Les check coolent flow for obstruction and flush it through. also is the water pump any good (is it turning, belt slack, damaged or leaking). might also be worth having your coolent sniffed for head gasket leakage as this will deffo cause it to run hot after replacing thermostat and fan. Dan

have had similar problem in past, and make of gasket made no difference. I found that the trick was not to do the naturally right thing. That is some thing leaks with a new seal and to tighten it. I replaced the gasket a number of times and even got a second hand cover and still had the problem. I found the trick is NOT to tighten the cover down all that tight as when its tight down it distorts the gasket. believe me it works! good luck

I have this topic in the Range Rover forum too, but copied it too here in hope some one can help! Dear All. I am new to the world of forums, but am at my wits end with my 1984 Land Rover 90 engine conversion. please please (on my knees begging) help me! I purchased a 1986 RR classic 3.5 EFI air flapper. When I purchased the RR the engine would not start, I soon rectified the fault by purchasing and installing a new fuel pressure pump. the engine started but ran lumpy! Changed the leads and plugs and she ran like a new motor! Then proceeded to remove engine and wiring loom and install in my 90. Have everything installed and plumbed up, BUT THE F***ING THING WONT START!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have checked and re checked all that I can think of and still not getting anywhere. Fuel pressure is good, sparking to all plugs, a good 12v to the injectors perfect continuity on that notorious white/black wire from coil +ve to pin 1 on the 4CU ECU all relays click and seem to be ok...........etc! All I get when I turn it over is a few coughs and splutters on a few revolutions, then a large smell of fuel, (over fueling possibly??)and then nothing! Removing cold start injector plug makes no difference. So I beg of you... to all you genious EFI air flapper gods out there please help, otherwise I think this may be the death of me!!!!!(not being too dramatic!) Cheers, a very desperate Dan in Dorset! p.s if all else fails anyone want to buy a project!!!

pins are all good on ECU plug, good earthing contacts on block and body. have tried changing plugs, leads and coil no difference, but funny u say about rags left in places, this has crossed my mind too. I do rember taking of phelem to re spray and stuffed blue roll down all the trumpets but cant believe i would have left them there. but its one of thoes things u think about and then start to doubt your self!!!! only one way to find out i suppose! Aaaaah!

Dear All. I am new to the world of forums, but am at my wits end with my 1984 Land Rover 90 engine conversion. please please (on my knees begging) help me! I purchased a 1986 RR classic 3.5 EFI air flapper. When I purchased the RR the engine would not start, I soon rectified the fault by purchasing and installing a new fuel pressure pump. the engine started but ran lumpy! Changed the leads and plugs and she ran like a new motor! Then proceeded to remove engine and wiring loom and install in my 90. Have everything installed and plumbed up, BUT THE F***ING THING WONT START!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have checked and re checked all that I can think of and still not getting anywhere. Fuel pressure is good, sparking to all plugs, a good 12v to the injectors perfect continuity on that notorious white/black wire from coil +ve to pin 1 on the 4CU ECU all relays click and seem to be ok...........etc! All I get when I turn it over is a few coughs and splutters on a few revolutions, then a large smell of fuel, (over fueling possibly??)and then nothing! Removing cold start injector plug makes no difference. So I beg of you... to all you genious EFI air flapper gods out there please help, otherwise I think this may be the death of me!!!!!(not being too dramatic!) Cheers, a very desperate Dan in Dorset! p.s if all else fails anyone want to buy a project!!!