ltwt1981

Nige 1 x Polo XL, 1 x Tee shirt XXL, 1 x Cap please, will pop in and pay you when I can. NigeT

Mine was always tight as was a friends, I assume you are using a bar as the shaft if so it should just clear.

I've got a detroit in my 90, had it years and no problem, I've got a 200tdi in this one, had a 2.25 petrol in the series and no problems. It may be that failure is related to high power and maybe too heavy a right foot in some way. We all know people who can break anything.

I've been looking at this as a way to a temporary slow down in the winter. Some of us work outside and it's not always great. If it helps on a door bottom or similar for six months then it's great.

I've got the small triangular windows and they work well at junctions.

Many thanks, it seems it works OK then.

When treating rust on the landy I always cut out the rotten bits, and weld in new, however in some areas, door frames etc it could be argued that this is going to far. Could we not treat the rust to kill it and then patch up the rest, not ideal I know but sometimes a quick fix before sourcing a new part may be wanted. What experience do forumeers have of the various chemicals available, and most important which ones work or don't work.

Whatever you do the scrutineers may not like it, the seat must be secure, it must be well fixed, anything that compromises the safety aspect will fail.

Nige Great idea, put me down for two XL rugby shirts. Prefer polos but what the heck. Navy preferred but green is OK.

Done for another year. Thanks Tony.

Check the filter on the fuel pick up in the tank, I've had problems with a waxy substance clogging it, yet to find what it is, but seems to be either diesel waxing or maybe condensation in the tank causing it.

List price in my book £17.02 per metre less 35% this is a good starting point, BSS may be a bit cheaper. They have a branch in Reading.

You all think as I do, however the petrol doctor tells me that petrol does not mix with diesel and you should use kerosene or paraffin. We always added a little petrol 35 years ago to help in cold weather, and I thought that was OK. Fuel doctor says it will harm the engine but I'm not so sure. Waxbreaker is a new one on me, I think it's probably a bit of water getting in, maybe condensation in the tank, difficult to stop I suspect on a 90 kept outside. At least the pick up is easy to get to on a 90, can't imagine what it's like on a RR or Disco nowadays.

Took the 90 to Manchester over the weekend, 200tdi diesel, started back 25 miles down the motorway it dies, took out the fuel pick up and its all clogged with a waxy substance, damn cold out so think no more. This has happened a couple of times before, I changed the tank and it happened, I thought maybe it's just something in the tank and it's gone now, but it happened again maybe 1000 miles later and now again after 2-3000 miles more. A friend who is a chemist in petro chem reckons it's probably not anything in the tank but waxing of the 5% biodiesel in pump fuel when it's cold. Anyone else any ideas, it's not ideal pulling the pick up pipe on the hard shoulder of the M6 in the snow and ice.

Nige I could be up for this, but like you would need to learn more, maybe we could go to a meeting to see what it is all about. I also know that some members on here are members of other 4x4 response groups, or were can they comment. NigeT

I've got a complete winch, in working order, yours for £150.00. Yuo've got all you need then.

MSA rules are the isolator should cut all power to the vehicle, it should be on the power side of the battery not the earth. In practice just cut it into the live cable from the battery, alternator should not be damaged unless you switch off when revving, but use a diode system if you feel better about it. It's to prevent fire from earthed lives in the event of an accident. National A scrutineer.

I've seen race cars wired up this way, and the battery back feeds through the alternator connection to keep it running, that's why the diode system. We start the car and switch off with the isolator it should all stop, I've also seen cars where the engine stops but the lights are still on, or at least the rain light. I admit we can't check all the wiring but we will do our best in limited time. Remember the Blue Book states that it is the competitors responsibility to ensure his vehicle is within the rules as the scrutineer cannot check everything in the limited time available. Individual scrutineers check on different things, so you may well get caught out in the end. It's in your own best interests to get it right, as it's your life on the line in a crash or fire.

This defeats the object of the isolator, which is to kill all power. This is a fail at scrutineering.

we have generally banned the ose of Kinetic ropes for recovery. Only used as a last resort, better to winch imho.

I've stuck a Warn Symbol on mine as I couldn't find anything else.

Last night changed a front hub on the 90. Another wheel bearing gone, so thinks why not get another hub and fit it, then I can have a spare all set up ready to go. Old hub off inner bearing is shot, new hub on seems OK but ( Land Rover so always a but) new (secondhand) hub is longer/fatter? and I can't get the 2 nuts lock washer and washer all on the stub axle. Also the five bolts for the drive are imperial, so what have I got and which are interchangeable, early 90/110, late 90/110, disco, range rover? Any thoughts welcome.

It will fail scrutineering if its not there and working.

We generally like extinguishers horizontal and front to rear. Obviously not for competition as we need AFFF to comply. Don't forget to take it out and invert it regularly.

Nige I've got a No 2 lead as well. Either me or Jon then.