oneten110

the v8 has always had a return for the fuel to get back to the tank whether it is carb or efi. With the carb models the pump is electric and continues to pump all the time, so when the carburetter float bowls are full the excess petrol goes back to the tank.

Thanks for the offer, but I am exporting the truck to the USA and I want to try and keep it as standard as possible so there are NO problems with either the EPA or the DMV. The EPA insist the vehicle has either the original engine or an engine of the original type, or an engine that has EPA certification for emissions. The truck was originally a V8 (with strombergs) so it is a bit of a risk even putting SU carbs on it, hopefully they won't notice it is a 4.2 Though that engine was originally intended specifically for the US market, the 3.9 being a bit gutless when the comperssion ratio was lowered for the benefit of USA octane ratings. At least that is what it says in a book on the subject.

That is absolutely perfect, thank you very much indeed

NO!! Land Rover no longer specify ATF for manual gearboxes and have not done so for years. they specify MTF manufactured for Land Rover by texaco. It was found that ATF gave poor lubrication, protection and shiift quality in manual gearboxes, especially at higher temperatures

Ashcroft transmission fit these to their reconditioned boxes as a matter of course. It is a much better idea than the silly torx thing

I am in the midst of replacing the tdi in my 110 with a 4.2 v8. I am using carbs instead of the efi. The problem (just one of a few) is how to fit the choke cable and linkage to the SU carbs. Does anybody have a picture of how this all fits together please? I seem to have myself in the situation where I need the choke cable to push the linkage and surely this cannot be right?? Any help or pictures would be most gratefully received

But does anybody have a picture of the front end set up for V belt please? With mine being bare I need an idea of where the alternator and PS pump are fitted. Thanks Chaps

Thank you very much, that would be helpful, serves me right for buying an engine that has sat around at the back of a garage for years. But really wanted a 4.2. Unfortunately it is bare, all the ancillaries have been stripped off it along with the rocker covers, the distributor and all the manifolds. So a bit to do to it, I am going to put carbs on it to start with, if only because I have got plenty of them and still have the HUGE air filter that sits across the back of the engine. I am also on the look out for the following bits if anybody has them please? air inlet duct ETC7193 or ERC5453 support bracket LH ERC3892 support bracket RH ERC3893 retaining strap front ERC3946 retaining strap rear ERC3897 and probably about a million other things as the re-conversion proceeds.

Thanks for the pic, but that is a different front end to mine, the water pump is not the same shape.

Thank you, but at this stage I don't even know if the engine I have is a serpentine or a multi belt engine. Is there any way to tell them apart when all the ancillaries have been stripped??

Does anybody out there have a pic of the front end of a 4.2 engine please, i have just bought a bare engine to replace the tdi in my defender. I need a pic of the front end so I know which brackets to buy to fit the alternator and power stering pump, if anybody has such a thing please. The one in the parts catalogue would probably be more helpful than a picture of an installed engine. Thank you in advance for any help gents

if you are after the mantec version they are available from Mantec via their website www.mantec.co.uk I once enquired at my local LR dealer about the filter canister for the waterproofed/winterised version. They wondered if I was serious about buying one. When I said yes, they delivered the killer blow. £1098+vat and that was about 5 years ago. That price was just for the high level filter canister!

In those 305,000 miles it has had the following failures: 1 Back axle half shaft (rusted away just inside the rubber cap) 1 Front axle pinion oil seal 1 Back axle pinion oil seal 2 back axle wheel bearings (on the side with the rusty halfshaft) 1 cylinder head gasket 1 fuel lift pump a leak on the Injection pump 2 P gaskets 2 manifold gaskets 1 front output seal (on the transfer box) 2 clutch master cylinder seals 1 clutch slave cylinder seal 1 radiator (just about fell to bits and after only 11 years!!) 1 fuel tank 1 back door Normal everyday type replacements: 1 set of injectors 1 set of glow plugs 2 clutches 2 sets of bushes 2 full sets of shock absorbers 1 full set of brake/clutch hoses 4 sets of tyres 3 exhaust tail pipes 2 exhaust middle boxes, still on the original front pipe tho Since 100,000 miles it has had a bigger intercooler, at 155,000 miles it had the pump tweaked to make the most of the intercooler. It also has an eberspacher engine pre-heater and a GKN overdrive fitted, both of which are worth every single penny.

Sounds like you have got a wiper motor for a LH drive truck, you need to take the gear out and push the drive pin through to the other side of it

More like lack of proper testing by Land Rover

Even better if you can series 2 panels, then they don't have windows in the rear quarter panel either

305,000 0n one truck and 320,000 on the other without any major disasters among the oily bits underneath. I reduced the oil change intervals to 5,000 miles when they went through 100,000 miles, but that was just to make the sums easier. A conversation at my local dealership and apparently the latest thinking at LR is to change all the transmission oils at the 24,000 mile service and err that is it, never change them again.

Missed the bus again! Been using a 110 as a daily drive for about 3 years now, averaging 35,000 miles a year. Very relaxed and relaxing truck to drive. Longest single journey was from Northampton to Lisbon, no bother at all, brought it back right across the centre of Spain, through Andorra, then France, gradually accumulating more wine all the way. Loved every mile of it. At one point somewhere right in the middle of Spain, we ran out of Tarmac and just had to do about 10-12 miles off road to get to the next tarmac section. Rolling down the mountains from Andorra into France through a snowstorm was pretty special as well. The truck (a 300Tdi) has been in the family (from new) since February 1994 and has just passed 305,000 miles, wouldn't be without it and make quite a few sacrifices to keep it both maintained and fuelled.

The side tank for the 90 is also used as an additional tank on 130s and some models of 110. In the older oneten parts catalogues (paper variety) they are described as being 15 gallons, then another tank, in the same catalogue, that fits on the same brackets and is the same shape, but has the sender unit in a different location, is described as a 12 gallon tank. If Land Rover cannot decide what the capacity is, what chance do we, mere mortals, have? the 80 litre 110 tank is the original, steel, variety fitted up 'til the introduction of the plastic tank on the TD5 If you are going to use a solenoid valve between the 2 supplies, don't forget to fit another in the return, unless you are happy with the idea of it always returning to one tank

They normally cost about £11 each from Lucas distributors, They are also available from TVR dealers, because TVR fit them to some of their cars

The bracketry is readily available from Land Rover dealers and a bl@@dy sight cheaper than it is on fleabay

Normally my local dealer can get me wolf parts within the same time frame as "normal" parts. ie 2 days for a stock order, 1 day for a VOR order.

You stamp the chassis with your existing chassis number and yes you are supposed to inform the DVLA who will want to inspect the vehicle. At least that was the way it worked when I did the chassis on my ltwt

I have read somewhere (possibly even on here) that the problem is caused by the carb body not being properly stress relieved during manufacture and that a method of fixing it (after cleaning the carb and sending the missus out shopping) is to put it in the oven and heat it as hot as the oven will go, then cool it down in stages. of about 100 degress, spending about 4 hours at each stage before finally bringing it back to ambient obviously the carburetter needs stripping to remove all the rubber bits first and the only bits that need to be annealed are the major castings

If you look at the joint between the head and the block, on the right hand side of the engine, almost hidden by the air filter. There is a tag sticking out from the head gasket. This will have a number of holes in it, or not. As previously mentioned, the most common is 3 hole, but there are 4 gaskets available from Land Rover with 0, 1, 2 or 3 holes. One of my trucks (fitted with a very early 300Tdi engine) has a 2 hole gasket. The thickness varies to accommodate the varying deck heights of the pistons.