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nickwilliams last won the day on December 12 2015

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About nickwilliams

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  1. I’m looking for the tool required to move the primary pinion lock nut on a series gearbox. The nut is part no. number 213416 circled on this diagram. <parts book extract> I’ve found this on e-bay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-Gearbox-Primary-Pinion-Nut-Socket-Fits-Pinion-Nut-213416/264734679197 but either the picture in the listing is very misleading or this isn’t deep enough to fit over the shaft and reach the nut: <picture> The nut is around 180mm from the end of the shaft so the tool will need to be around 200mm long overall to reach the nut.
  2. This thread gives some insight into fitting central locking to the rear door on a Defender:
  3. I'd second Tanuki's comment. I had similar problems when running with one tyre which was different to the other three. Cured completely with a new set of tyres.
  4. Couple of previous threads you might find useful: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/64861-keys-and-barrels/ https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/77724-barrels-and-keys/ IIRC I don't think it's possible to change the barrel in the steering lock - you have to change the entire lock assembly.
  5. The problem with fusing cables carrying the kind of current required to crank a cold 2.5 litre diesel is that the total resistance of the fuse and the connectors used to terminate the wires connecting to it is greater than that of the cable itself, and since it's only operating at a nominal 12V that makes the voltage loss across the fuse significant. A better solution is to ensure the cables are mechanically protected, including using good quality rubberised cable (e.g. welding cable) with good quality crimps at each end, protected by self-adhesive heat shrink to support the cables in t
  6. I found the problem on mine was the entire door was bent. Jamming a broom handle in the hinge side and pushing it shut seemed to fix it.
  7. In addition to the 19J era 90, the Lightweight and two Series II vehicles currently being re-built, the family fleet includes a 15 plate Fiat Panda 4x4, a 66 plate Peugeot 508 SW, two 52 plate MGTF's and (as of yesterday) a 03 plate Subaru Forester. Last time I changed the oil on the Panda I had to take it to a garage to get the oil warning re-set, and the Forester has a warning light which needs fixing before it goes for an MOT. It looks like it's time to buy an OBD reader, but it needs to be one which will work across a wide range of makes and will allow me to re-set fault codes. I
  8. It's fairly easy to find people selling weld-on replacement brackets for the springs, bump stops etc on coil spring LandRovers. Does anyone know of a source of the equivalent parts for leaf sprung vehicles?
  9. Non contact DC current measurement is a particularly challenging parameter because the reading can easily be affected by the earth's magnetic field and the sensors used are very susceptible to temperature related drift. One trick which is worth knowing is that if you wind the wire through the current clamp multiple times then you increase the sensitivity of the measurement in direct proportion to the number of turns - say you have a meter which measures 50A with a single wire passing through it, that measurement will actually mean the wire is carrying 25A if there wire is passed through t
  10. I'm after one for a Series II, but thanks for the offer.
  11. Thank you to everyone who read this request, but it is no longer required (I was outbid!).
  12. .... well pretty much anywhere north or west of London, actually. There's a gearbox on e-bay I'd be keen to bid on but I don't much fancy a 400 mile round trip (especially under lockdown) to go and get it. Is there anyone who could collect it and move it in a northerly direction? Eventually it needs to get to near Buxton, but there's no rush, and pretty much anywhere north or west of London would be better for me for collecting.
  13. I have a Series II and a Series IIa to re-build (with help from my son) over the next few months. New galvanised chassis and bulkheads for both arrived from Shielder on Thursday last week - I'll report on quality when I have a chance to look at them properly in the next few days. First impression is that they are very shiny! I'm going to want to get a variety of bits and pieces galvanised so could do with recommendations for companies who are known to do a good job. I'm not far from Buxton so ideally places north of Birmingham and south of Hull would be useful. Thanks Nick.
  14. If that is supposed to be for a LandRover then I'd say it's intended to go in the front of one of the rear wheel arches. If it doesn't fit there then I don't think it's intended for a LandRover.
  15. Yes, you are correct in the sense that if you just isolate the battery (on either side) once the engine is running then the alternator will supply current to keep the engine running until it's shut off by some other means. The FIA switch works by having an auxiliary contact which can be used to shut off the engine so in theory at least you could wire the main contacts into the battery negative and still use the auxiliary contacts to shut off the engine. Whether that's allowed by FIA rules or not, I have no idea. The other point which is probably worth including here for the benefit of th
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