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nickwilliams last won the day on December 12 2015

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About nickwilliams

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  1. Yes, you are correct in the sense that if you just isolate the battery (on either side) once the engine is running then the alternator will supply current to keep the engine running until it's shut off by some other means. The FIA switch works by having an auxiliary contact which can be used to shut off the engine so in theory at least you could wire the main contacts into the battery negative and still use the auxiliary contacts to shut off the engine. Whether that's allowed by FIA rules or not, I have no idea. The other point which is probably worth including here for the benefit of th
  2. I guess this follows the logic of undoing the negative side battery terminal first to eliminate the possibility of sparking if the spanner touches any bodywork while undoing the positive side. This isn't really necessary if isolation is achieved by a switch, but it can make the wiring simpler and reduce the chances of a high current short to ground in some circumstances.
  3. If they look molten then I'd think they are more likely to be slag left over from a smelting process.
  4. See if either of these helps: Carbide Insert Specs.pdf Carbide_insert_key.pdf
  5. If you compare it with the asthmatic ex-disco 300 TDi I had in the vehicle as an interim then they are like night and day. More pertinently, the engine which I took out originally and re-built with the Turner head used to go pretty well but was quite smoky - I think someone had fiddled with the FIP. I put the same FIP back on the rebuilt engine without making any adjustments (other than ensuring the timing was dead on). The vehicle smokes a lot less than before, and it pulls like a train. Notwithstanding my annoyance with Turner's customer service, it would appear they know what they
  6. Just to follow up on this thread, I eventually fitted the head having carefully filed the raised dent back to as close as I could get it to the machined surface around it without causing any more damage. The engine went back in the vehicle at Christmas last year and, so far at least, seems to be working perfectly. It's done about 500 miles now.
  7. I met my wife at Bullpot Farm. Small world!
  8. Because Hazel is a caver (as am I, which is how I know her) and quite a bit of her research over the years has been in caves where microbes are often the only life present.
  9. Anyone interested in the science behind the Coronavirus outbreak could do a lot worse that to watch this presentation by Professor Hazel Barton. Hazel (whom I know a little) is an expert in microbial life, particularly in low energy and primitive environments and her CV includes helping NASA to develop tests for microbial life on other planets. The presentation is billed as "A short introduction to viruses, virology, and what the coronavirus is, and a discussion about where we think the virus comes from, how it causes disease, and where we are in dealing with it. Think of this as a short
  10. Answers: 1 - No, Tirfor cables are not ordinary wire rope. Ordinary wire rope is designed to be slightly flexible, a Tirfor cable has to be non compressible. 2 - Not if you want to pull at or near the rated load of the Tirfor, and definitely not if you are hoisting (as opposed to winching). 3 - I very much doubt it.
  11. A friend has purchased an ex- electricity board 110. It's got BFG Mud Terrain 265/75R16 tyres in reasonable condition on three corners and a very old and worn Cooper Discoverer STT M/T 265/75R16 on the fourth. All the tyres on the vehicle are on matching heavy duty steel rims. He was given a Boost Alloy with a (badly perished) Michelin Latitude 205/80R16 tyre as a spare. (Yes, this was from a dealer, no it's not worth arguing with them since he's had the vehicle for more than.a year now.) My plan is to purchase two more BFG 265/75R16 MT/s and fit these to the rear axle and buy a
  12. This is how I fitted the oil pressure sender the first time I did one but it looks very vulnerable to vibration or other damage so although I did not have any problems with it, when I changed the engine I drilled through into the gallery at the bottom of the arrowed port. I then tapped the port 3/8 BSP, and fitted a 3/8 BSPP(M) - 1/8NPT(F) adapter and mounted the oil pressure sender direct to the port. It's much more rigid and tucked away from damage here. Note also the addition of the oil temperature sender. This is threaded direct into the casting, which is fairly thin at this point so
  13. This is a top tip. It's very difficult to get the pistons back into the block without the big end bolts hitting the crankshaft, and it takes very little to damage bearing surfaces.
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