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Everything posted by nickwilliams

  1. I've managed to knacker 4 aircon pumps using them for onboard air - and that's with mist oilers etc. I think the fact that my system runs at 15 bar may shorten the life. But yes, this is mostly about solving an interesting technical problem. Makes a change from sitting at a computer writing e-mails, which is mostly what I do in the day job. As I said in my OP, I don't really want to fill the compressor with black oil from the engine sump. An external pump is certainly a possibility but we have a rotating shaft and some space so having a crack at making a circulating pump sounds like an interesting possibility.
  2. I'm hatching a plan to adapt one of these to use as a compressor for onboard air on my 300TDi. This will involve making an interface plate to provide a mounting which matches the aircon compressor mounts on the top of the timing chest and and a shaft which links the belt driven electric clutch off a standard 300TDi aircon compressor to the splined socket on the compressor. The compressor requires a pressurised oil supply to lubricate the con-rod bearings and the piston. It has ports to allow it to be fed by the Merlin's oil system, and I suppose I could plumb it into the 300TDi oil circuit, but that would mean pushing diesel-filthy oil through it which I don't much like the thought of. Instead I plan to give it is own oil supply using a small pump driven by the shaft. I've looked at using the rotor parts out of a 300TDi oil pump - they are cheap, easy to get hold of and I kind-of like the symmetry of adapting 300TDi parts for this job. However, in practice the pump is far too big for this job, and a shaft to match its rather peculiar double internal keyway drive arrangement will be a bit of a PITA to make. Obviously I can do some looking about for something smaller but it would be a great deal quicker if someone here knew of a suitable alternative to the 300TDi pump. I think I'm looking for something with an outer diameter around 50mm and ideally with a single keyway round shaft drive about 20 - 25mm dia. Has anyone got any ideas where I might find a suitable sized pump rotor set which isn't too spendy?
  3. Well, I am delighted to report that, in no small measure due to the assistance provided here, Zak and Oli went on to be judged the over-all winners of this year’s Mongol X Rally. Furthermore they have raised over £1000 for Parkinson’s UK. There are pictures of the exploits on Instagram - search for Team No Parkin Thanks to all of you who contributed Nick
  4. Best wishes for a speedy recovery from Zak, Oli and I.
  5. You can't replace the cable or lever operated valves on your digger with simple solenoid control valves. Normal solenoid vales are either open or closed and that will make operation of your digger impossibly jerky. If you convert to electric control you will need proportional valves which require a variable current to move the valve to any position between open and closed. Decent quality proportional valves cost hundreds of pounds each, and you also need a lump of fairly fancy electronics to drive each coil (and there are usually two on each valve). Having said that, the electronics does not need to be costly. When I made the variable speed control for my hydraulic winch, I used a pair of PWM motor control modules I bought on e-bay for about £10 each. Actually, there are ways of reducing the jerkiness of simple solenoid controls with flow restrictors, sequence valves and other fancy bits and pieces, but the hydraulic circuit rapidly gets seriously complicated and needs a fair dose of black magic to make it work properly.
  6. Message from the boys: Please post a thank-you on the LR4x4 forum. We made contact with Stuart Hart who was great and really helped us out. He gave us a radiator, rocker cover and lots of good knowledge. Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas. Zak and Oli (Team No Parkin’)
  7. Bear in mind that halogen lights in particular are very sensitive to supply voltage, meaning a small drop in supply voltage at the terminals has a big effect on the light output. Consequently, it's really the resistance in the circuit supplying the bulbs which is the important factor, not just its ultimate current carrying capability. Big fat wires and larger terminals have a higher current capacity and also have a lower resistance, which is good, but every connector or joint you put in the wiring between the alternator and the headlamps adds a resistance which is probably equivalent to several metres of cable. Using well over-spec'd connectors and cable, and minimising the number of joints is important if you want to get the maximum amount of usable light out of your headlamps.
  8. Sorry for delayed reply, @Peaklander. I spent most of yesterday fitting an external battery charging socket to the 90 and wasn't paying a lot of attention to the internet. Unfortunately they are posting most of their updates to Instagram which I do not do, but this morning they are in Redruth so they must have sorted something out. I know they met a bunch of LandRover enthusiasts while off-roading the Mini to get to one of the rally check points on Friday night and were offered use of some workshop space. I'll find out more later today. Thank-you to everyone who posted advice or contacts above: even if they've got themselves sorted right now there's plenty of time for something else to go wrong! I'm actually doing my best to ignore the problem: they are 22 and 23 and should be quite capable of sorting themselves out without needing me to organise things for them. My original post was made at their request, which is fair enough, but it's up to them to follow up on anything offered here. As a parent it's easy to spend far too much time worrying about how to keep your children out of trouble (or how to help them out of trouble if they get into it), but when I think back I realise that when I was their age I was organising caving expeditions in central America and pretty much completely out of touch with home for months at a time, and I survived (albeit not entirely unscathed) so worrying about this pair makes no sense at all.
  9. This is kind-of OT (although the extended story includes a Series III Lightweight and a Haflinger, but I don’t have time for all that today) but I’m not a member of any other vehicle related forums (fora?) so I’m hoping the LR4x4 collective can come up trumps. My son Zak and his cousin Oliver have this afternoon set off on the Mongol Rally X - it’s a cut down version of the Mongol Rally proper, the full rally having been cancelled for the last two years due (mainly) to Covid. They are raising money for Parkinson’s UK, a cause close to my heart because Oliver’s father and I both have the disease. Their chosen mode of transport is a classic Mini, and they are easy to spot because I think we can be fairly certain that they are currently the only red Mini on the British road network with a 16ft canoe and a set of waffle boards on the roof.. For those with Instagram, their page is here: https://www.instagram.com/noparkinplease/ They set out from home in the middle of the Peak District at lunch time today heading for South Wales and by 16:30 had made it as far as the other side of Stafford where they had to stop when the Mini overheated. At the time of writing they have made it nearly as far as Builth Wells but the radiator on the mini is knackered and they could really do to find a replacement. So, the question for you all is do any of you know where they can find a classic Mini radiator in the South Wales area this weekend? The best way of getting hold of them will be to post a reply here, and any ideas or recommendations will be gratefully received. Thank you. Nick.
  10. The glow plug relay which is fitted to later engines contains a timer which continues to run the glow plugs for about 10 seconds after the engine has started. It's there to reduce cold start exhaust emissions, it has nothing to do with starting the engine. Keeping the original glow plug wiring would be simpler, and you would be very foolish IMO to consider changing the wiring without first getting the original wiring to work. If you fit a relay you will also need a different ignition switch (PRC8230). It does sound like you have a faulty switch but if you want to prove it, attach the negative lead of your multimeter to the chassis somewhere, and then, using a sharp pointed test probe, measure the voltage at first the battery +ve terminal and then at every accessible terminal or connection between the battery and the glow plugs. Measure the voltage both with the switch in position 1 (ignition on) and position 2 (glow plugs on). Somewhere you will find the difference between the two voltages is more than about 6 volts. The fault is between that point and the previous point where a measurement was taken and the voltages were within 2 - 3 V of one another.
  11. What are you using to measure the voltages? I assume it must be some sort of multimeter? You need to check the voltage methodically along the wiring, if need be all the way back to the battery. Something in the circuit is creating a high resistance. Don't assume the switch is good just because it's new (especially if it came in a blue box).
  12. Unless the studs are stainless (which they won't be - that's a really bad idea) then you risk making the corrosion worse by putting stainless nuts on carbon steel studs. If you want to minimise any corrosion, use standard steel nuts on standard steel studs and spray everything with anti-sieze grease as you assemble it.
  13. Plenty of stainless fasteners on my truck (my son teases me about it) but not wheel nuts.
  14. Wheel nuts are safety critical. They need to be done up very tight, repeatedly. This is not a good application for stainless steel.
  15. One of things that nobody tells you about having lockers in both axles is that it means all the wheels are rotating at the same speed so basically the vehicle only wants to go in a straight line. Locker in the back, limited slip diff in the front gives nearly the same effect traction-wise but makes for much easier and precise steering.
  16. So this is what was delivered from Turner's today:
  17. Does the advice in this thread remain valid? Took the rocker shaft off the cylinder head today (see separate 300 TDi head gasket thread) and to say that the valve caps were knackered is a bit of an understatement: These came from Paddocks when I rebuilt the engine and replaced the head 18 months or so ago - the head came from Turners with valves, valve springs, spring caps, cotters, stem seals and spring seals but not the valve caps. Has anyone got a part number and UK source for the VW ones mentioned?
  18. Indeed. That will be this afternoon's project.
  19. The 300TDi overhaul manual actually says "If, however, cylinder head, pistons or crankshaft have been replaced, it will be necessary to check piston stand proud in order to determine the correct thickness of gasket." but thinking about it, there is no reason why the stand proud figures would change if only the head is replaced. The book also says that heads should not be skimmed so I guess it's a case of 'guidance for the wise, obedience of fools'.
  20. And after a few hours work today, I think we have found the culprit, between No. 4 cylinder and the water gallery between pots 3 & 4:
  21. Watching this with interest since I have almost exactly the same issue, albeit that the leak in mine is pressurising the coolant system and the engine still runs fine. What did you do about checking and selecting the right thickness gasket after you had the head skimmed?
  22. Likewise, my engine (which is a fairly early 16L 300TDi) ate two fuel lift pumps in fairly short succession so I cut the flange off one of the broken ones and machined it flat to make a spacer about 5mm thick. It's been fitted and working fine for about 18 months.
  23. I can't claim to have vast experience of different tyres (on the LandRover at least) and I've never run a set of BFG's which seem to be the benchmark most people would use. In terms of on road grip, both type of Kumho were/are way better than the dodgy Kingpin re-moulds the vehicle had on it when I first got it, and they were better than the 750-16 Michelin X's I had after that. However, I don't think they were as good as the set of Michelin XPC's I run mainly on the Lightweight and in terms of snow performance they all work but are way, way behind the Pirelli Cinturato's I run on my Panda 4x4. The wear rate would tend to indicate that the Kumhos are softer than BFGs which is likely to make a considerable difference to their performance on snow and ice. Sorry, not sure that helps a lot!
  24. It's a shame the KL71 are NLA, I really liked them. One of their advantages is they will run at really low pressures (I've had mine down to 12PSi) which definitely improves grip in mud. I also found them to be reasonably well behaved on the road. I can't say much about how noisy they were because I have no soundproofing of any sort in my 90. All I can say is they were not loud enough to drown out the 300TDi!. I replaced them when they were about 75% worn, which took around 20k miles. Not much by BFG standards but perfectly acceptable on vehicle which only does about 4k miles per year. I had to replace them because I had one written off in an accident. The KL71's were not available so I bought a set of MT51's. They seem to be slightly better behaved on wet roads, I've not had occasion to need to use them in deep mud but I suspect they won't be quite as good as the KL71's, although they are also apparently good for running at low pressure.
  25. I'm in need of a set of lock wire pliers. The choice seems to be between cheap and cheerful off e-bay for £15 - 20 or branded from the likes of Facom, Starwhille or Bahco for somewhere north of £100. Does anyone know why the branded ones are so spendy, and if they are worth it?
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