nickwilliams

I thought that's how they came from the factory!

I thought they should be oriented so that water runs out of the joint if the props are submerged when wading.

I have seen similar symptoms resulting from a broken cam shaft.

I use (and am very happy with) one of these: https://www.dabonwheels.co.uk/product/kinetic-dra-6001-dab-dab-fm-sw-mw-lw-car-aerial-3/ There is also a shorter version available from the same supplier.

This might be the solution to your problem: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Safari-Door-Lock-Repair-Spring-Kit-/140815418374

If you are blowing the fuse repeatedly then something is wrong, probably with the motor or the switch. I'd recommend sorting that problem out before trying to troubleshoot the intermittent function. There is no need for any resistors in the circuit. Don't assume that the switch works properly just because it is new, especially if it came in a blue box. Likely failure modes include loose terminals or bits of swarf inside the switch mechanism.

I redid the vinyl front seats in my 90 with Britpart kits, one in 2013 and the other in 2015. They have been fine since.

I don't know anything about Santana vehicles but for LandRovers the heater plug timer relay was introduced with the 200 TDi. Earlier vehicles (19J/2.5 Turbo and previous) had an intermediate position on the ignition switch as described by Puffernutter and the dashboard light is directly connected to the heater plugs so the light is on whenever the plugs are being supplied with power. If the light doesn't work then either there is a wiring fault or the bulb has blown. The reason for the timer relay is that it actually keeps the heater plugs on for about 10 seconds after the engine has started (which is apparently an exhaust emission reduction measure). The dashboard light is not connected to the plugs directly. If the light doesn't work then the most likely cause is a faulty timer relay, although a wiring fault or blown bulb are also possibilities.

Mine had shrunk by a similar amount to the OP's, so it does happen. The workshop manual says the plunger should be changed with the spring. I don't think the engine rebuild manual is so prescriptive, and I can't see why it's necessary.

Thanks all, some useful insight in these responses. Nick

So what about going for something like this, given that it's likely to be of the same order of cost as a re-core?

That's the one!

My radiator has sprung a small intermittent leak. I'm going to be putting a re-built engine (300TDi) into the vehicle in the next 6 - 8 weeks, so it makes sense to replace the radiator at the same time. What are my options? Any recommendations? Anything to avoid? Is it worth changing the intercooler at the same time? All advice / comments / stories of experience welcome! Nick.

Back in 2010 I posted a thread on how to do this using (mostly) non-standard but available and home made parts. The pictures are here but I can't find the thread they were linked from.

I sent Turners the pictures before I posted my original message. The feedback from them is that the damage is minor (which I accept) and that i've just got to put up with it (which I'm less happy about).

Yes, it would appear I can: That wasn't possible last time I posted pictures here!

The head is aluminium so if there is any rust it's come from whatever it was that hit it.

I got fed up with messing about with the PRC7925 cap and instead I drilled a hole in the expansion tank and fitted a float switch I bought from RS. It took me a couple of goes to get the hole in the right place - in the first location the moving part of the switch fouled one of the internal ribs in the tank, the second hole made the outside end of the float switch foul on the back of the brake master cylinder. The float switch is just a normal open/close switch contact so it doesn't need any electronics or relays to operate a light on the dash panel. If someone can answer my question about creating new gallery albums I will post some pics.

Some pictures here: (They could do with being put in their own album but I could not work out how to create a new one.)

I bought a new 300TDi cylinder head from Turner Engineering. It's the gas flowed version so it cost £595+VAT. It arrived on Wednesday in a plastic bag inside a cardboard box with mostly recycled paper padding.. There was a great big orange sticker on the outside of the box which said to check the packaging for damage before signing but there was what only appeared to be superficial damage to the box so the staff member who took delivery signed the paperwork and accepted the package. I unpacked it later and found it's slightly damaged on the mating surface. Close examination of the packaging shows a cut about an inch long in the bottom of the box consistent with the location of the damage and a slit in the plastic bag, so it looks like the carrier has dropped the box on something small and hard. The damage is a small dent which extends about 5mm into the mating face of the head and creates a ridge about 0.35mm proud of the machined surface. It will be relatively easy to file out, although care will need to be taken not to scratch the rest of the machined surface. The engine uses a 1.5mm thick head gasket. I contacted Turners who replied to say "... the damage is so insignificant from a fit, function and purpose point of view it can be disregarded as it will be embedded in the head gasket or you can file the corner of the cylinder head if you so wish." The message goes on to say "Damage of this nature is always irritating both for the customer and ourselves as we take great care with the packaging. In this case there would be no reason to replace the product." Part of me thinks that it's a trivial issue and I ought to just ignore it and move on. After all, sh*t happens, and on the basis of Turner's advice the part is still fit for purpose.. However another part of me is annoyed that I have just spent £700 on a part which should have arrived in perfect condition, didn't, and the supplier has just washed their hands of the problem. I very much doubt this is the first time it's happened (Turner's reply basically says as much) and even if it hasn't it seems I'm still being expected to accept the consequences of Turner's inability/unwillingness to adequately package their shipments. It may also be pertinent to note that as well as the head I ordered a new turbo (also from Turner's). That arrived in its original Garret shipping carton which was in a similar external state to the one the head was in but the padding inside the box is expanded PU foam and the contents are undamaged. What do others think? Should I make a fuss or just be British about it? More importantly, is what Turner's says correct and the damage will be fully absorbed by the head gasket or am I lining myself up for long term problems by following that advice?

Has anyone got any recent recommendations and indicative costs for a company which can re-grind my 300 TDi crankshaft? Thanks! Nick.

That will be fine. In this application, quantity is more important than quality, particularly when it comes to propshaft UJs.

I'd be careful about using them anywhere they might get damp.

I would not use Vaseline - better to use something which does not remain slippery after the screen is fitted, and Vaseline will be a PITA to clean off the glass. Crossing the ends of the paracord at the bottom of the screen is right, but I left a loop of para cord sticking out of each side and worked the sides in first, a bit at a time on each side. If you try to get the seal in place on one edge but not on the opposite edge at the same time it's much more difficult to get it seated properly. It took me a couple of hours each time. The last replacement was done by an Autoglass fitter and paid for by my insurer. It took him about 15 minutes!

I've fitted two heated windscreens and a heated rear window myself to my 90. Paracord and lots of lubricant (I used hand barrier cream) are the key. For the windscreen I took the top of the dashboard out to make the bottom of the seal easier to get to.