RTF

I fitted a RM overdrive to my 2003 110 and well worth it just like haveing a 6 speed box I leave mine in high most of the time as it can start of in 1st high overdrive no problem but when towing use low overdrive when starting of So my vote is for the overdrive

On my 2003 vehicle has speedo , fuel , water/temp , clock so when I got my rev count it came with mounting pod so moved the clock into it and mounted it on the dash next the ashtry ( at least the passanger can see it now aswell) and put the rev counter in it`s place here`s a link which I used to wire mine in http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/TD5_rev_counter.htm

Hi Santiago Have a Rover drive fitted to my 110 Td5 hard top for about a year now and can`t fault it run 265/75/16 In every day driveing leave it in high all the time only use low when starting of with the trailer and reversing I do tow a trailer with my 90 on it and still use the overdrive when in slower moving trafice just change into 4th over drive same gearing as 5th no overdrive Had though about fitting a discovery transfare box but Td5 are very high geared in first and since the 110 was bought for towing went for the overdrive

Has anyone looked at the rear seats from a Megan Scenic rember seeing where someone had fitted them in the back of a 110 station wagon These seats are on runners slide forward and back recline tile forward and fold forward Now I havea 110 hardtop which hope to put a seat in the back and have got a new Exmoor fold up rear seat plus managed to get one out of a puma but still like the idea of the ones from the scenic so will have to unclip the rear seats from the scenic and try them

You could duck tape it on and use one of these http://www.ruftraks.co.uk/plasma_locks.htm to stop you pullin rope out to far

Hi If you look at the diff gaurd QT they usedto make a bolt on kit to fit the shocks into the middle of the vehicle the wee suzuki SJ use the same set up for there rear shochs

Have to say the one on my 110 works well but then don`t intend to use off road But have one fitted to the 90 and is the PTO version which works brilant but did a wee modifaction to it before fitting welded a 1" thick plate between the 2 steel tubes spacers which the caliper fit`s to which when I though about it the tube spacers have a lot of pressure on them and not a lot of surface area to stop them from twisting sideways so the plate makes it more like a H shape so less stress on the to long bolts Not that there anything wrong with the design but if you think about it when at events and you want to winch someone out and on your own you pull on the handbrake so there is a lot of pressure on the 2 bolts which hold the calliper in place

I presume you mean the one at the bottom end of the column had that problem 5 year`s ago asked about the part with no sucess so got a bronze bush made to fit in instead also drilled a small hole in the column housing so can put a little oil in when I remamber Good luck in trying to get a bearing

There are 2 types of X9 the first has a plastic freespool leaver which is held on by a small pin and the mark 2 which had a alloy freespoll leaver Have just dune up one for a friend which needed a new motor and solenid and rewireing to the motor not hard work If you check out David Bower site http://www.dborc.co.uk/goodwinch/ you can get a plan of all the parts and part numbers under spares & service The main thing to check is the brake inside the drum there is a small bearing in the brake which can seeze and stop the shaft which pass through the drum and the brake to the gear box from turning which will stall the motor and burn it out very quickly ( this is what happen my friend and he had tried a second motor before givein it to me to sort out ) also in the gear box strip it was in desiel and use a little grease and gear oil to lubricate as it makes it easier to pull out on freespool

Alex when takin the freespool off after undoin the 4 bolts turn the plate so as the leaver is at the bottom this well help hold the small cog/gear onto the freespool leaver and not drop into the bottom of the winch housin just an idea

Here are a few tests which I tried out my self on my 8274 using Bow 1 , Bow 2 , XP motor Bow motor 1 90` of rope with no load took 53 sec to wind on 90` of rope under load up slight hill took 2.02 min Bow motor 2 90` of rope with no load took 50 sec to wind on 90` of rope under load up the same hill took 1.45 Bow motor 2 using the turbo kit 90` of rope with no load took 27 sec to wind on 90` of rope underload up same hill took 52 sec XP motor 90` of rope with no load took 51 sec to wind on 90` of rope underload up same hill 1.48 min XP motor using turbo kit 90` of rope with no load took 29 sec to wind on 90` of rope under load up same hill took 54 sec Have used a couple of times to pull other landrover out started in 12 volt then when get them moving flick the switch to over volt and works well Think if you fitted Bow 2 to a TDS 9.5 and the turbo kit would make a good winch plus the one`s MR Bowyer sell`s come`s with a larger drum as one of the people in our club has one but not have the Bow 2 on it

Hope this helps taken from the people who know http://www.devon4x4.com/index2.php?option=...2&Itemid=33

If you change to an albright will only require 3 wires out of the 5 red live green to wind in left spade black to wind out right spade and run an earth from the bottom of the motor to the center spade on the albright As for the missin bolt if you look close will see the missin bolt is only to hold on the A bar and the bolt to hold on bumper is further back and below A bar

You can use one shot same as in swivels or 00grease don`t use to much or cable will be hard to pull out Had a friend who bought a new winch at billing every had to pull out on freespool so took gearbox of and dismantled washed some of the grease out of it and added gearoil works a treat now

As you say the seal between the swivel and axel tube are differant and have to be change to same as 300 but the CVs and shafts will fit

Made one for the back of by 90 hardtop much the same only simpler only took a day to make and fit most costly bit was extra thick alloy fairlead to reach through back door from S Racing

have a 200 TDi fitted for 8 years and have never had glow plugs wired up never needed them

Hi all just new to forum on this subject Had a Detroit locker fitted in rear of my 90 but found it to aggressive as it would lock in when not expecting on conners and roundabouts so now got True Trac`s front and rear .Work well just have to learn how to left foot brake when one wheel in air (stop`s wheel in air from spinning and transfares torque to wheel on ground )