Ratty43

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About Ratty43

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    Old Hand

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    Cornwall
  1. Thanks for the input, I was amazed that the inlet was plastic with a turbo on the other end. It's a fair point as it would be no different to a pin hole in the hoses. I agree that they are great cars, I had a 5.3 X-JS and still have a low mileage XJ40. To be honest I only bought it as I needed something more efficient than the Defender and was surprised at how good it is. The Mondeo based comments are a bit unfair although it's not a patch on older jags for ride quality, uses half the fuel though! I have thought about using the XJ40 for work but I'm a Quantity Surveyor so spend my days on building sites and I don't think 80's steel and cement would mix! As it happens it's gone from pretty constant to not present for the last couple of days. This rather makes me think that it's an electrical fault like a corroded connection but I would have thought this would have shown up on diagnostics.
  2. Thanks for your input. Luckily the egr on the x-type is at the front so wasn't too bad a job. I cleaned out the pipes and the manifold at the same time although they were all reasonably clean. The throttle body is a good shout, I'll give it a go, thank you. I'll update as to the effect. Agreed it's a great engine despite the current issue. Cheers, Barney
  3. Evening all, Off topic as its the 2.0 Duratorq diesel in my x-type but since the same (ish) engine is in the Freelander 2 I'm hoping I'll be forgiven and someone will be able to shed some light. On a very light throttle at about 1750-2000 rpm the engine feels like it is missing, its very violent, to the point that I either let off the throttle completely or accelerate; originally this only occurred at 50mph in fifth gear on a particular stretch of road which is very slightly down hill. However recently its become more common and I can induce it by using a light throttle in any gear. Originally I thought it might be the EGR as the engine was also smoking a bit so this was replaced with a genuine Ford EGR which got rid of the smoke but not the misfire (or whatever it is in a diesel). As a bit of background the car runs brilliantly, despite having covered 186k miles with no smoke when accelerating and pulls well with good fuel efficiency. I've checked all of the hoses and there is no sign of any splits, I've also plugged it into a code reader which showed no faults nor did the live data look odd, I had wondered if there was an issue with the throttle itself but this increased smoothly without any jolts etc. Any help would be gratefully received. Thanks in advance! Barney
  4. I converted a series 3 to 200tdi sans turbo and frankly hated it. It was far (as in a galaxy etc) noisier and gutless although the mpg was better by a small margin. I say that as a firm believer that the 200tdi was the best LR engine by a country mile but it's better left as it's designers meant it to be.
  5. Bowie is quite right, absurdly, having passed my test in 2012 I would be better off using a medium sized car for towing than my D2 in order to maximise the weight I can tow. Madness. We're veering off topic!
  6. I'm with Snagger on this, in addition to my D2 I have an XJ6 and it's silent to all intents inside. I admit the Jaguar straight 6 beats any other contemporary engine anyway but heavy, luxury, carpet knocks out everything else including tyre noise. My only consideration would be that carpet soaks up water and that's never a good idea. I did line my Series 200 di (carp, leave the turbo on!) With closed cell foam and 1/4" inch ply on top and it helps a lot although that was the entire vehicle so neither easy or cheap; certainly not as good as heavy carpet I'd imagine
  7. I fitted Wipac Crystals to both an MG BGT and theyou were brilliant. I only kept it for a year but they weren't showing any signs of wear. I also fitted normal style bowls with halogen H4 bulbs to my other half's Mini and whilst not as good as the Wipac units they were still a world away from sealed beams. Personally I'd fit the Wipacs and consider it money well spent even if they need replacing every few years.
  8. I would check the feed to the starter motor solenoid as well. Years ago I changed a gearbox on a Laguna and from there on in had symptoms like yours until I pushed the spade fully home again.
  9. I don't know about legality (maybe type approval would include it?) but surely no insurance company would touch a car with a mod of that nature? I suspect there would also be liability issues if one skidded and crashed into someone else and subsequent investigations showed ABS would have prevented it. None of which answers your original question, sorry!
  10. Happened again today as well. This time I noticed the suspension height change light came on when I was cranking it.
  11. Just to add a bit, today I had the turning over and not firing. Left it 5 minutes and it started as the key turned. When I got home I plugged the Nanocom in and there were no stored faults. I'm pretty certain it's the BCU and water damage but will report back when I've found the time to take it out.
  12. What annoys me is that it insurance has moved away from the original idea of everyone pays the same to cover the one of the many that has an accident. Personally I'd put insurance on fuel duty, that way there would be no uninsured drivers and it would be equitable for all. I know young drivers crash more ( I did) but then we all get older and more sensible and it evens out.
  13. I can see the sense in that and have a new crank sensor on order. Although I don't have a missfire as such there is a vibration at 2500 while cruising at 70 which feels like a very faint miss. I still suspect the windscreen leak has influenced the BCU so next weekend having read the codes I'll pull it out and have a look. I sealed the windscreen inside and out with Tiger seal yesterday and washing it today I still had a dry headlining so fingers crossed that's one issue resolved.
  14. Thanks for that Bogmonster, I'll have look at it and give any suspect areas a clean. Windscreen sealing is on this weekend's to do list. Nanocom arrived yesterday so I've just read the faults and got the following: ECU. 1.5 Driver demand problem 1 (logged low) 5.5 Driver demand problem 1 (current) 16.2 High speed crank (logged) 22.1 Road speed missing (logged) Slabs. 23.05 Shuttle valve switch electrical failure (intermittent logged 23 times) This I believe means I need to do the wiring repair at some point? What interested me most is that the battery read through the instrument bit on nanocom shows 12.6 (it was replaced not long ago) but the BCU registers 11.6. I'm wondering if the leaking windscreen has corroded the earth to the BCU causing a voltage drop and the issues I've got?
  15. Massive red! No longer mine but I restored the (hopefully) attached Series III and for looks it ticked every box in my opinion. Although a little lad once said 'look at that big pink truck mummy!' I couldn't work out if it was a compliment!