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About Ratty43

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  1. I bought a new halfshaft for my Disco 3 a few weeks back and spent quite a while finding the cheapest source of a GKN item. Devon 4x4 had the best price so I went with them. I was a bit surprised when it turned up in a Britpart box but had to press on as I need the vehicle for work. They then confirmed that it was not a GKN part, complete with the ominous mis-type of 'this should fail'…! In fairness to them they offered to deliver the correct part and pick up the old on the next day but it was a bit late by then. Still miffed as I could have bought a Britpart one for far less elsewhere. A clas
  2. I am constantly amazed that touchscreens in cars haven't been banned since they rely upon the user looking at the screen rather than the road. The reality, I suppose, is they look 'nice' and cost a fraction of the price of dozens of switches.
  3. I've gone through a few: Triumph Spitfire IV (first car in 2003, put it into the back of a van, rebuilt the front end and overhauled the gearbox on the drive) Volvo 840 estate Volvo 840 estate after the first one disintegrated. Land Rover 110 TD Jaguar XJS Renault Mégane (written off two weeks later while parked thanks to a drunkard) Renault Laguna estate Discovery 1 200tdi Land Rover Series 3 (got the engine out of the rotten Discovery above) Discovery 1 300tdi Mini 1000 Triumph Spitfire IV MG Midget 1500 MGB GT Def
  4. Oddly enough mine broke in two places in the middle, it was a genuine Jaguar one being original so 1989 vintage. I'm certain it was caused by hitting the cut edge of roadworks in France. The other one snapped within weeks but both were some time after the event.
  5. Personally I would take air over coils any day of the week. My old XJ6 lost a coil without warning whilst parked up and became an ornament right there. Changing the spring was properly worrying as well. Whereas my Disco 3 has a slow leak somewhere at the front and picks itself up each morning while I find where the air is going. On road, empty, the D3 has a really comfortable ride, with half a ton of scrap in it the ride was... exactly the same. I'm not convinced about the arguments against it in the sticks but the majority of buyers won't be there anyway, they will however want a vehicle th
  6. Just to add to Scotts90's comments I know several farmers that run older D3s and a couple with Freelander 2s. None of them seem to have any issues despite the hard life they give them. I have a D3 with 168,000 on the clock and whilst it isn't perfect it does the one thing my 90 couldn't, long journeys without feeling knackered at the end. I'm sure they are questionable for the sort of use the military need but for most people the vehicles being made recently (relatively) are far ahead of any older models. There are D3s that have undertaken serious overland expeditions such as Kiwis in Africa s
  7. I would back the comments that it depends on the patrol driver. I had an awful experience with the RAC where the nearest 'help' was a local garage that tried to tow me in for a flat battery when a jump was just as good. The AA in my experience have been superb. On Wednesday my ignition barrel on the Discovery 3 failed and 20 minutes after I called them I was on my way. Half of that time was the chap explaining how tumblers and immobiliser rings work. Luck of the draw with all of them I suspect but vans on the ground wins every day for me.
  8. To carry on incase it helps someone in the future : Following on from my thread about my Discovery 3 TDV6 taking longer to fire than it should I think I've found the cause. The fuel rail shows a pressure of 130 kpa (1.3 bar) engine off, my understanding is that this should be held by the fuel control valve on the high pressure pump at 100 bar. When cranking the pressure builds until at diagnostics showing about 9000 kpa it fires. This is below the injector trigger pressure but I think this is a delayed figure due to the diagnostics frame rate as once running it is about 22000 at idle. Th
  9. Firstly this is on a 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 but I thought being a common rail diesel and so sharing characteristics with other models this forum makes more sense for gathering knowledge, mods please move if you wish. I've already posted this on Disco3 but haven't had much by way of replies so hopefully the collective knowledge of LR4x4 will come to the rescue. I've recently bought the Discovery and it's always slow to start, worse cold at about 3 seconds but still slow warm, probably a couple of seconds. The battery is a new Exide one, 900cca, and turns it over fast but the time
  10. Not directly helpful I'm afraid but I would have it plugged into a diagnostic computer. I've had similar random messages in my recently acquired Discovery 3 and the faults have all been due to one module losing contact with another so your suggestion of damp in a connector doesn't seem unreasonable. For what it's worth I've bought an iCarsoft LRII code reader, it doesn't have all the bells and whistles of the more upmarket ones but for £140ish it does enough to show where the problem is. Comes as a nasty shock when the car says something is wrong doesn't it?
  11. I fitted a plastic and ali one in my other half's classic mini a few years ago, the plastic was fine. Unfortunately the aluminium wasn't as a stone put a hole in it. Personally I'd stick with something more robust.
  12. This is a well timed topic for me as I'm heading back to the fold as a two year old forces sale of my Z4. Unusually the two year old is our new rescue dog but she need something I can load her in without escaping. Head says Freelander 2 but heart says D3! In favour of the 3 over the 4 pre March 2006 reduces the road tax by £200. I know this isn't a great deal compared to running costs of fuel and maintenance but it's a lot to throw at the exchequer. I was tempted by another D2 but frankly my last LR was a D2 and it tanks as my worst ever vehicle in terms of electrical issues.
  13. I would check the feed to the starter motor solenoid as well. Years ago I changed a gearbox on a Laguna and from there on in had symptoms like yours until I pushed the spade fully home again.
  14. Just had a look at the wiring diagrams, on the 300 each headlamp has a different feed from the fuse box on so it can't be the same as my problem (200 shares the same feed). I'd start by cleaning the contacts as far as the fuse box and if that doesn't work then replace the relay. Since both lights are going out it narrows down the problem to the areas where the feed is the same i.e switch and relay. The way that it works after several attempts sounds like a sticking relay to me.
  15. My old 200 started doing that, extremely unpleasant to find yourself in the dark at speed. In my case the n/s headlamp bulb connector had melted. Easy to check and cheap to repair if that is the cause on yours.
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